EuroRestoMod '70 Challenger

[dodj]

This is a small thing given the other work ahead of you, but in the picture of the engine bay it looks like your heater core is directly connected to the water pump.    There's supposed to be a control valve mounted on top of the passenger side fender well.

Unless originality is a concern, it doesn't really matter if you have one. Just my 

[1 Wild R/T]

Unless originality is a concern, it doesn't really matter if you have one. Just my 

It does matter, on an A/C car full airflow always passes through the heater core so to reduce the heat you shut off water flow through the heater core... 

Obviously you own a non-A/C car, in that application when cool temp is selected the blend door diverts airflow so it doesn't pass through the heater core

[Archialfa]

                                        I THINK THE SPOILER IS CORRECTLY INSTALLED 

Well, I tried to figure out from different photos and I can't say 100% what is right or wrong.

[Archialfa]

IF the spoiler is mounted backwards, it only might be that the slated cut is the other way around. I marked it with red and green lines on the photo...

[dodj]

Obviously you own a non-A/C car,

You are correct. Thanks for the info. I never really understood the purpose of that valve.

[70chall440]

IF the spoiler is mounted backwards, it only might be that the slated cut is the other way around. I marked it with red and green lines on the photo...

No, it is good, sorry I should have looked closer.

[EB3-GranCoupe]

Archialfa,
My car was in a similar state as yours. Originally a 318, now a 440, with factory a/c.  I purchased the Bouchillon SD508 compressor (R134a), brackets, O-rings (R134a), and hose ends/fittiings to mount to the compressor.  Everything else is factory parts.

http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/464/532

http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/467/569

http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/air_conditioning_fittings

Partially complete:

[YellowThumper]

When you convert to Vintage Air it will come with all the necessary items. Such as the valve noted above.

[Archialfa]

Great, thanks for the info!


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[Archialfa]

I'll be using Berner underbody black coating for rust protection. It's a German brand, very popular over here.

Product is some kind of mix of bitumen, caoutchouc and plastic. It creates a layer of protection against salt, stone chips and water. It'll probably add a bit of noise insulation, too.

[Archialfa]

I need advice regarding taking out the windshield and rear window. Somebody has previously glued the both windshield and rear window to the bodywork/moulding so now it's not possible to dismantle it easily and make sure that the glass doesn't break.

I tried to find a professional company who can guarantee that they can pull it out without breaking and 4 of them said it cannot be done. Finally I got a supposedly very experienced guy who can/will do it. It'll cost me 300 euros for both taking it out and putting it back. Sounds reasonable if both parts don't break. I guess.

Anyway, does anyone here have experience with this kind of problem? If yes, I need all the advice I can get. 

I don't know what will happen to the moulding, I'll probably need to get new ones. Of course, I didn't count on that expense now, but who ever restored a car and stayed within the budget?

[IMNCARN82]

both front and rear glass is glued in.  Yes, It can be removed without breaking.   Not a big deal.   I would get new glass too.

R/T

[1 Wild R/T]

The deal is the windows were originally set with a Butyl tape seal... That stuff is pretty easy to work with, cutting it is easily accomplished with piano wire or a guitar string...   Easiest place to start is the corners, push the with through the sealant then grab the end & wrap it around something to be used as a handle.... By pulling the wire back & forth it will cut through the butyl like a knife... Easiest on a warm day... I can typically get a windshield out without damage in less than 15 minutes..

In the late 70's manufacturers quit using Butyl tape & moved to Urethane sealant... Much harder to work with 99% of the time the glass will break... If your glass was removed & reinstalled with Urethane forget about it...

The trim is secured with spring clips that grab a lip on the back side of the trim... It can be removed with a hook tool, slip it under the trim slide it in till you feel it hit the back lip then pull it parallel to the trim till you feel it grab a clip... Pull the clip toward the glass without levering the tool back... If you lever the tool back instead of the clip holding the trim the tool locks the trim....Once the clip is pulled away from the trim lift the trim away from the glass.... Often the trim is hard to remove because the butyl tape has attached to the trim... Take your time & it will come free...

[Archialfa]

The windshield and rear glass are successfully out!! It took 2 full days for 2 professionals to do it. The glue was overdone: at some places it was about 2 cm (0.8")... anyway, it's done now. The car will be fully sandblasted next week.

I'll post photos of the windshield frame - there's rust over there, of course. I hope I won't need to replace the A-pillar posts. I was looking at AMD's cowl replacement parts, it might be cheaper/easier to get those than to make new from scratch. Has anyone done this? Replaced lower windshield cowl corners or the corner patches or A-pillar posts?

[Archialfa]

Here are a few photos after (almost) taking it apart...