Blacking out the fenders and Cutting/Buffing SS Urethane advice sought

[70chall440]

Just finished painting my Cuda in sublime SS urethane, I now need to cut and buff it to get the dust and orange peel out of it. I put 4 coats on it just for this reason, however I am wondering how long I should or can wait. I ask because I cannot get to it for a little while due to work/life. I painted my Challenger and seem to remember cutting and buffing it some time after I painted it. I have researched this online and have read everything from "as soon as dry" to "4-6 weeks". The paint is TCP Global and the tech sheets says it is dry in 16 hours, but as I said I cannot do it right now. My intention is to wet sand it with 600, then 1000, then 1500, then 2000 and perhaps 2500 after that, then use something like 3M Perfect Cut to buff it out.

Also, I will be blacking out the tops of the fenders and front header panel as well as the taillight panel (same as an AAR). My thought was to scuff the areas to paint with 600 and then painting it, however I am looking for some advice here.

I would appreciate advice from anyone with experience.

[js29no]

If it were me, I would 600 grit wet sand ware you plan to do the black out. satin black I assume? lightly go past your intended tape line, I would use 1000 grit from your tape line out away from that. sand the rest of the car 1000 grit and finer, I would avoid 600 on A fresh paint job. app lie the black, let that cure back tape and mask the black out area and proceed with the buffer. that way you are already sanded at the edge of your tape line. I suggest at the tape line after the 1000 grit you go 2000 A few inches out as to not have to buff with A machine, you could do it by hand. Some give A week or so before buffing, so the paint can shrink and settle.

[70chall440]

Thanks. So if I am understanding your comments, you are saying use the 600 where the black paint will be sprayed (yes it is satin), and use 1000 and finer on the rest of the car? If so, that was kind where I was leaning but wanted some confirmation. As to the tape line/s, basically this is the body style line. Since it comes to a pretty prominent point, I am not too sure I want 600 on that. I understand what you are saying, just trying to think it all through.

[Cudakiller70]

Do you do this by hand or use a DA?

[Cuda Cody]

I'll try to make a video this next week.  You don't want to decide until you see how it shrinks.  Then you'll start and need to look at it to decide what steps.  The type of clear (amount of solids) will determine how you sand.  I have a special way that makes it really easy.  You can wait as long as you want before you start.  The longer you wait the better the end results, but the harder it will be.

[js29no]

He has single stage on the car! I would not go near it with A DA I would do it by hand. but ware your applying fresh paint I would want it sanded with 600 for A good mechanical bond. 

[Cuda Cody]

Good catch.  I've not worked with Single Stage in a ling time.  I was referring to base / clear.

He has single stage on the car! I would not go near it with A DA I would do it by hand. but ware your applying fresh paint I would want it sanded with 600 for A good mechanical bond. 

[70chall440]

Thanks all. I have no intention using a DA, it will be all hand sanded. I am going to have to wait 2 weeks at least due to work. I intend to sand and shoot the black probably next weekend and then cut and buff the entire car (not the black I don't think) until memorial day week as I should be home that week, plus I should be getting some help later in the week.

[js29no]

I don't be leave you can buff satin finishes. I like to use an old timer's trick and use A chain to ground the vehicle. static electricity is created in the paint process, less dust and grit. I also use painters plastic instead of paper. I find it works better for me.   

[70chall440]

Wasn't going to try and buff the satin (would kind of defeat the purpose I think)

The chain deal is interesting.

The only problem I have had with plastic is you can get some splash back from it and depending on where it is, the paint will run down it.

[IMNCARN82]

Cut the green with 1500 2000 3000   Look for scratches as you go.    Hard work.    4 coats isn't that much.   SS is soft.   Careful around the edges.  Best thing to do is a small part and practice.  Start finer and work back as you have to versus starting too coarse.     3000 is DA with double foam interface. Lots of water.    what u using for product?  I like the 3M perfect it.

600 where u spray the blackout.  Tape it off and sand just up to the edge. Then grey scothbrite up to the tape.  real light.

I don't like plastic next to where I spray. Always paper along the edge,Plastic everywhere else.   About to do it too,I'll post up some pix as I go.

R/T

[70chall440]

Cut the green with 1500 2000 3000   Look for scratches as you go.    Hard work.    4 coats isn't that much.   SS is soft.   Careful around the edges.  Best thing to do is a small part and practice.  Start finer and work back as you have to versus starting too coarse.     3000 is DA with double foam interface. Lots of water.    what u using for product?  I like the 3M perfect it.

600 where u spray the blackout.  Tape it off and sand just up to the edge. Then grey scothbrite up to the tape.  real light.

I don't like plastic next to where I spray. Always paper along the edge,Plastic everywhere else.   About to do it too,I'll post up some pix as I go.

R/T

Thanks, I think we are on the same page. I am going to use Perfect-it; they have a 3 step system. I used it on my Challenger and it worked really well. On that car, I started with 1000 then 1500, then 2000. I don't think I went finer than that and it came out pretty well. That car has 3 coats of EV2 on it.

[js29no]

I have used Norton overspray protective sheeting for years. on all my paint work, ware it seas paint this side up you had better be leave it. I never use paper, only for primer. I pretape my area lay, the sheeting down, cut out around the tape and tape it down. haven't had A problem with it so far.

[jimynick]

The only real issue with the plastic is that it can have the overspray dry and flake off if you wait a while between coats and aren't using an HVLP gun. I, also wouldn't use a DA as you're just a heartbeat away from a sand through problem and that's the last thing you need. Hand sanding it and using a block will also give you an opportunity to further smooth the paint. Stay away from all high crown areas and do them gently by hand. You can get a thickness tester to tell you your paint thickness and that might help prevent overzealousness. The PDR guys use hail lights and set up to shine down or over the surface, they can be a real help. You can make one out of a 4' fluorescent yourself if you don't have paint booth quality lighting in your shop- and few of us do. I'd also let it stand as long as you want before getting on it, but then, that's just my  . 

[70chall440]

Thanks. I have a thickness gauge and will definitely be hand sanding.