Author Topic: Fuel gauge woes  (Read 4437 times)

Offline HP_Cuda

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Fuel gauge woes
« on: May 20, 2016 - 04:39:02 PM »
Well everything is in and now the fuel gauge does not want to cooperate. I have traced the resistance all the way from the sender all the way up to the gauge and it's showing 28 ohms which is almost spot on because I put about half a tank of gas in.

So this leads me to believe I have a faulty voltage reg or capacity back there? Any more ideas?

B
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD




Offline crash340

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2016 - 06:09:25 PM »
I guess measure the voltage on the other terminal of the gauge, if its not at the regulated voltage then the gauge isnt going to read right or at all
Greg

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Brisbane, Australia

Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2016 - 07:27:56 PM »

I seem to remember it's supposed to be at 5V correct?
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2016 - 07:33:04 PM »
more of a pulse voltage averaging 5 v , do the other gauges oil & temp work if so the reg is fine so it could be the gauge is bad

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Offline msbaugh

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2016 - 10:17:21 PM »
more of a pulse voltage averaging 5 v , do the other gauges oil & temp work if so the reg is fine so it could be the gauge is bad

Chryco is right it won't be a constant 5v.  Your other gauges (oil and temp) could be off or reading low too and you just don't know it.  A bad VR will put more resistance in the circuit and make it read low.  If that's the case only replace the VR with an RT engineering solid state unit which can be found online. If it's not the VR regulator do the following:

-First test, take the fuel gauge wire and bypass the sending unit by putting it straight to ground or the - battery terminal.  Don't hold it very long and make sure the ignition key is turned on. Your gauge should peg all the way full.  If not, bad news, your fuel gauge is bad.

-Next remove the sending unit from the tank (please try to run the tank empty of gas first and be careful with possible ignition sources).  Take one wire from ground and clamp it to the body of the sender while its removed.  Next, take the sending wire with your ammeter in series and look at the gauge (remember ignition on) and resistance to the normal sender unit terminal with the float in 3 different positions.  The ohm readings should be linear, in other words (full gauge resistance - empty gauge resistance)/2 = half gauge resistance. Report back and I'll tell you what you need to do.

Float empty
Ohms: _____
Gauge reading:_____

Float 1/2 way
Ohms:_____
Gauge reading:_____

Float full:
Ohms:_____
Gauge reading:_____
« Last Edit: May 20, 2016 - 10:23:34 PM by msbaugh »

Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #5 on: May 21, 2016 - 02:24:19 AM »

Thanks guys.

I think it's limited to either a bad guage or the VR. I'll test out the VR and see if it's still good, otherwise I guess I'm pulling the fuel guage and sending it off to have it rebuilt.
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD

Offline msbaugh

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #6 on: May 21, 2016 - 03:51:00 PM »
Try the tests before pulling the gauge.  The reason I posted the long ellaborate test is because the sender a lot of times will sink, have the wrong resistances, or need to be bent slightly for accuracy.  Good luck

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2016 - 11:31:38 PM »
you can test the whole circuit at the fuel gauge sender , if you have 5v pulse there everything is working back to the sender

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Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #8 on: May 22, 2016 - 11:57:28 AM »

I already did this and got 0 V so I guess I need to replace the VR.

you can test the whole circuit at the fuel gauge sender , if you have 5v pulse there everything is working back to the sender
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD

Offline dodj

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #9 on: May 23, 2016 - 11:36:38 PM »
I already did this and got 0 V so I guess I need to replace the VR.
[/quote
If your other gauges are working, its the wiring connected to the sender, not the vr.  :2cents:
]
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
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Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #10 on: May 24, 2016 - 02:36:48 AM »

I cannot verify that the other gauges are working just yet.

So the jury is still out.
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD

Offline dodj

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #11 on: May 25, 2016 - 07:45:39 AM »
If you still have an original style, bimetal strip regulator pulsing 12v on and off, I would plan to replace the vr even if it is not the problem. :2cents:
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline msbaugh

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #12 on: May 25, 2016 - 07:58:15 AM »
 :iagree:

Offline dodj

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #13 on: May 25, 2016 - 08:26:30 AM »
I cannot verify that the other gauges are working just yet.

So the jury is still out.
Check for regulator voltage at the temp sender connector. Easy to get at.  :2cents:
Just a thought. You recently put all this together. It is important that the gauge cluster has a good ground through the mounting screws. It is possible you don't have a good ground(all gauges not working). It would be worthwhile to attach a temporary extra ground to the gauge cluster just to make sure. (jumper wire with alligator clips)
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline Lbs

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Re: Fuel gauge woes
« Reply #14 on: May 25, 2016 - 10:25:06 AM »
Check for regulator voltage at the temp sender connector. Easy to get at.  :2cents:
Just a thought. You recently put all this together. It is important that the gauge cluster has a good ground through the mounting screws. It is possible you don't have a good ground(all gauges not working). It would be worthwhile to attach a temporary extra ground to the gauge cluster just to make sure. (jumper wire with alligator clips)


:agree.......while reassembling my freshly painted dash, I took it a step further. Instead of scraping off my new paint to get a good ground, I ran a new ground wire from my dash cluster to the battery ground. No trouble since.


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