AMD quarters

[NCCUDA]

Just received my AMD , quarters L&R , drip rails and roof skin.  No damage to panels,test fit looks good, style lines are crisp, fit to all others parts are very workable.   After fabricating the side structure of the roof support this will be a piece of cake.

Looks like another long weekend under the welding helmet.

Parts replaced to date:
 L front frame rails- all associated parts that go with that, all floor pans,center cross member, all trunk pans including drop offs, R rear frame rail, rear cross member, complete outer wheel wells, tail light panel, dutch-man panel and other miscellaneous rusted structure Why do these  cars rust everywhere?

[Challenger in NC]

Just received my AMD , quarters L&R , drip rails and roof skin.  No damage to panels,test fit looks good, style lines are crisp, fit to all others parts are very workable.   After fabricating the side structure of the roof support this will be a piece of cake.

Looks like another long weekend under the welding helmet.

Parts replaced to date:
 L front frame rails- all associated parts that go with that, all floor pans,center cross member, all trunk pans including drop offs, R rear frame rail, rear cross member, complete outer wheel wells, tail light panel, dutch-man panel and other miscellaneous rusted structure Why do these  cars rust everywhere?

Nice job,looks like you have everything under control. Most of us can identify with the rust issues you mentioned, 45 years does a lot of damage.

[js29no]

These were assembled raw steel. only got coated ware A spray gun could reach. condensation between panels alone rust them out.

[IMNCARN82]

did you scribe the old drip rails before removal?  That helped me get them right back where they were.   And welding a couple spots heats it up enough to bend it along the curve.   I did pre- arch the rails a tad.   Used small self tapping screws to hold stuff sometimes.  Take your time and fit it all up loose.  (quarters/r. valence) 

  I'd lead the seams at the A/B and rocker.    Keep up the good work!!!!    R/T

[jimynick]

did you scribe the old drip rails before removal?  That helped me get them right back where they were.   And welding a couple spots heats it up enough to bend it along the curve.   I did pre- arch the rails a tad.   Used small self tapping screws to hold stuff sometimes.  Take your time and fit it all up loose.  (quarters/r. valence) 

  I'd lead the seams at the A/B and rocker.    Keep up the good work!!!!    R/T

Yep, good advice, AND don't weld up the 1/4's until you fit that rear valance or you won't be happy. If this makes you any happier, there's only 7 original panels left in mine- and believe it or not, the upper trunk and roof panels are 2 of them. When I cut off the 1/4 panels, there was SFA on them internally- nothing, just bare steel. Talk about planned obsolescence! 

[NCCUDA]

Drip rails were not scribed for location.  Frame below them was rusted out and they were only attached to the roof.  Hard to tell in the photo but that piece was fabricated from the front pillar back to where it attaches to the wheel well.

Most people might have said to much rust, I say resurrecting a car back from the dead.  Besides,now I can walk into my garage and be at my therapist.

By the way tried the weld in one panel and fit the next to it....had to drill and grind out all of the welds, patch the panel and reinstall.  Right now not even the tail light panel, trunk drop offs or truck gutters are welded in.   I will not weld until all gaps are good and everything that connects to a panel that is close is where it needs to be.  Too me the whole back section better fit before the welder is even turned on.

This is my third car I have done a restoration on , but this one is the worst when I started.  Too deep in to turn back.

Thank you to all for the advice, and helpful tips.