Author Topic: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger (Read 24232 times)

brads70 · « **Reply #60 on:** January 31, 2017 - 09:18:04 PM »

Another concern I have is using only a u joint on the steering column to connect to the steering box. These cars move quite a bit . Put your car on jack stands on the frame rail under the firewall, then with a floor jack start jacking under the k frame skid plate and note how far the front end moves before the jack stands can me removed. These cars flex a lot . Tork boxes and subframe connectors help huge in this issue but that is why the Mopar engineers designed the steering box to steering column coupler the way they did . It is designed to float in and out as the car flexes. A solid u joint doesn't allow for that. Looks like yours is equipped with a vibration dampner ? That still doesn't allow for the steering column/steering box to "float"
Look at this . http://bergmanautocraft.com/proddetail.php?prod=5-0010
This still allows the "float" and adapts your steering column to the new box, but with the angle its at I can't see this working? Mopar engineers had the simple ujoint design long available to them at the time and chose not to use it. Must be a good reason? Easier on the seals in the box? Maybe it causes a bind in the column causing premature wear/failure? I don't have all the answers, I'm not an engineer but..... I have logic?

Just my

70chall440 · « **Reply #61 on:** January 31, 2017 - 09:57:25 PM »

Quote from: brads70 on January 31, 2017 - 09:18:04 PM

Another concern I have is using only a u joint on the steering column to connect to the steering box. These cars move quite a bit . Put your car on jack stands on the frame rail under the firewall, then with a floor jack start jacking under the k frame skid plate and note how far the front end moves before the jack stands can me removed. These cars flex a lot . Tork boxes and subframe connectors help huge in this issue but that is why the Mopar engineers designed the steering box to steering column coupler the way they did . It is designed to float in and out as the car flexes. A solid u joint doesn't allow for that. Looks like yours is equipped with a vibration dampner ? That still doesn't allow for the steering column/steering box to "float"
Look at this . http://bergmanautocraft.com/proddetail.php?prod=5-0010
This still allows the "float" and adapts your steering column to the new box, but with the angle its at I can't see this working? Mopar engineers had the simple ujoint design long available to them at the time and chose not to use it. Must be a good reason? Easier on the seals in the box? Maybe it causes a bind in the column causing premature wear/failure? I don't have all the answers, I'm not an engineer but..... I have logic?
Just my

I agree, that box it mounted at an extreme angle IMO and is going to cause issues.

Mopar Mitch · « **Reply #62 on:** February 01, 2017 - 12:05:39 AM »

AU6pack -- nice work!! Are you going to cover the strut rod heim joint ends with the Hotchkis rubber protective boots? Its my understanding that exposed heim joints (to the environment) allow dirt and welcome shorter life of the heim joint ends.

Also, did you consider installing the longer Fast Ratio pitman arm, along with the longer c-body idler arm (that's the matching fast-ratio idler arm)?

js29no · « **Reply #63 on:** February 01, 2017 - 10:07:21 AM »

I have A set of firm feel fast ratio arms, I put them on my manual steering barracuda and it made low speed steering to hard to steer. if your interested in them let me know.

brads70 · « **Reply #64 on:** February 01, 2017 - 01:53:49 PM »

Quote from: js29no on February 01, 2017 - 10:07:21 AM

I have A set of firm feel fast ratio arms, I put them on my manual steering barracuda and it made low speed steering to hard to steer. if your interested in them let me know.

Small or large sector shaft ..... I'm assuming small?

AU6pack · « **Reply #65 on:** February 01, 2017 - 05:06:23 PM »

Quote from: brads70 on January 31, 2017 - 09:18:04 PM

Another concern I have is using only a u joint on the steering column to connect to the steering box. These cars move quite a bit . Put your car on jack stands on the frame rail under the firewall, then with a floor jack start jacking under the k frame skid plate and note how far the front end moves before the jack stands can me removed. These cars flex a lot . Tork boxes and subframe connectors help huge in this issue but that is why the Mopar engineers designed the steering box to steering column coupler the way they did . It is designed to float in and out as the car flexes. A solid u joint doesn't allow for that. Looks like yours is equipped with a vibration dampner ? That still doesn't allow for the steering column/steering box to "float"
Look at this . http://bergmanautocraft.com/proddetail.php?prod=5-0010
This still allows the "float" and adapts your steering column to the new box, but with the angle its at I can't see this working? Mopar engineers had the simple ujoint design long available to them at the time and chose not to use it. Must be a good reason? Easier on the seals in the box? Maybe it causes a bind in the column causing premature wear/failure? I don't have all the answers, I'm not an engineer but..... I have logic?
Just my

Thanks for the feedback guys. Now I'm getting worried...

I wish I had have known about the coupler before I cut the shaft up! The angle of the box can only be a result of the mounting block on the K-member being out, or the steering box mount being out - right? I will take some measurements when i get the car home next week and try to find out where the problem is. I wonder why Borgeson use the solid joint over the Bergman type? They must work. I'll post some pics and measurements next week.

AU6pack · « **Reply #66 on:** February 01, 2017 - 05:10:36 PM »

Quote from: Mopar Mitch on February 01, 2017 - 12:05:39 AM

AU6pack -- nice work!! Are you going to cover the strut rod heim joint ends with the Hotchkis rubber protective boots? Its my understanding that exposed heim joints (to the environment) allow dirt and welcome shorter life of the heim joint ends.

Also, did you consider installing the longer Fast Ratio pitman arm, along with the longer c-body idler arm (that's the matching fast-ratio idler arm)?

Thanks Mitch. Yes I do have the cover to put on the joint. I kept the original pitman arm as the Borgeson box is quick ratio I didn't know how the combo would work out.

brads70 · « **Reply #67 on:** February 01, 2017 - 06:48:48 PM »

Quote from: AU6pack on February 01, 2017 - 05:06:23 PM

Thanks for the feedback guys. Now I'm getting worried...

I wish I had have known about the coupler before I cut the shaft up! The angle of the box can only be a result of the mounting block on the K-member being out, or the steering box mount being out - right? I will take some measurements when i get the car home next week and try to find out where the problem is. I wonder why Borgeson use the solid joint over the Bergman type? They must work. I'll post some pics and measurements next week.

I'll bet its the box thats out. Do you still have a stock Mopar box laying around? If so bolt it in and post a picture?

AU6pack · « **Reply #68 on:** February 01, 2017 - 06:51:28 PM »

Quote from: brads70 on February 01, 2017 - 06:48:48 PM

I'll bet its the box thats out. Do you still have a stock Mopar box laying around? If so bolt it in and post a picture?

Nope - sold it with the K-member

brads70 · « **Reply #69 on:** February 01, 2017 - 06:57:29 PM »

Quote from: AU6pack on February 01, 2017 - 06:51:28 PM

Nope - sold it with the K-member

Any Mopar buddys around locally to borrow one from?

70chall440 · « **Reply #70 on:** February 01, 2017 - 09:03:09 PM »

I would contact the K member manufacturer and the box manufacturer and tell/show them about this and see what each says (I would bet they will blame each other), however you might get some insight that might save you some time and money.

Priesty · « **Reply #71 on:** February 02, 2017 - 04:59:32 AM »

Quote from: AU6pack on February 01, 2017 - 06:51:28 PM

Nope - sold it with the K-member

I think I've still got my old one lying around somewhere if you just want to borrow for a fit-up, I'm in Melbourne too. My Borgeson box has a bit of a angle in it but the Bergman coupling seems to work fine with it. Feel free to PM me if you want to meet up for a look see.

AU6pack · « **Reply #72 on:** May 29, 2017 - 05:59:18 PM »

Hi Preisty, thanks for the offer what suburb are you in? Have you got some pics of your steering box set up you could post?

Priesty · « **Reply #73 on:** May 30, 2017 - 03:54:49 AM »

Quote from: AU6pack on May 29, 2017 - 05:59:18 PM

Hi Preisty, thanks for the offer what suburb are you in? Have you got some pics of your steering box set up you could post?

I'm in Werribee, can get some pics tomorrow & post up if you like.

AU6pack · « **Reply #74 on:** May 30, 2017 - 03:56:57 AM »

Quote from: Priesty on May 30, 2017 - 03:54:49 AM

I'm in Werribee, can get some pics tomorrow & post up if you like.

Thts great thanks. I'm in Maribyrnong

Author Topic: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger (Read 24232 times)

brads70

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

70chall440

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

Mopar Mitch

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

js29no

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

brads70

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

AU6pack

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

AU6pack

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

brads70

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

AU6pack

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

brads70

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

70chall440

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

Priesty

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

AU6pack

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

Priesty

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger

AU6pack

Re: Aussie �E-Max� style T/A Challenger