Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger

News:

  • Home
  • Help
  • Chat
  • Login
  • Register

    • « previous next »
    Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7

    Author Topic: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger  (Read 24261 times)

    Offline YellowThumper

    • Sr. Member
    • ****
    • Posts: 1633
    • I left the snow for this?
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #45 on: January 03, 2017 - 12:04:08 AM »
     :2thumbs:
    Logged
    Removing the warning labels one at a time.
    Nature will take care of the rest.


    Offline AU6pack

    • Jr. Member
    • **
    • Posts: 172
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #46 on: January 11, 2017 - 01:17:49 AM »
    Engine finally on dyno. 537 ft lb & 524 hp  :clapping:

    What do you think of those numbers? Would have expected more like 550/550 with the work done, but overall I'm pretty happy with the result.

    Video here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4p5tJCeaa8Y&feature=youtu.be
    Logged
    Craig
    Melbourne, Australia
    1970 Challenger 416 6 pak
    Resto thread - http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=114787.0

    Offline 67vertman

    • Sr. Resident
    • ******
    • Posts: 5125
    • Member since 9-23-2005
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #47 on: January 11, 2017 - 10:32:07 AM »
    Quote from: AU6pack on January 11, 2017 - 01:17:49 AM
    Engine finally on dyno. 537 ft lb & 524 hp  :clapping:

    Those are very decent numbers for a street motor.  :2thumbs:

    With dual guads or a bigger four barrel I bet you could make more power.
    Logged



    Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

    I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

    First car -1969 Road Runner 383 4sp

    Current ride - 1970 Barracuda 440-6 4 sp Dana 60  (4:10)

    Offline AU6pack

    • Jr. Member
    • **
    • Posts: 172
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #48 on: January 31, 2017 - 12:34:09 AM »
    Finally got the front and rear suspension in the car after spraying the underside. The Hotchkis and QA product is top notch quality and everything bolted up perfectly. I hope it handles as good as it looks!

    Not many pictures of the rear as we were racing the clock to get out of the shop. The rear sway bar took a few hours as the brackets needed to be welded to the frame. Car comes home next Tuesday after 2 years at my mates shop. Looking forward to working through the long to do list at my pace....
    Logged
    Craig
    Melbourne, Australia
    1970 Challenger 416 6 pak
    Resto thread - http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=114787.0

    Offline MoparCar

    • Full Member
    • ***
    • Posts: 611
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #49 on: January 31, 2017 - 08:01:10 AM »
    Looks great! Did you shorten the steering shaft for the u-joint to Borgeson box? Nice job!
    Wes
    Logged

    Offline brads70

    • C-C.com Expert
    • ********
    • Posts: 18747
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #50 on: January 31, 2017 - 08:02:06 AM »
    That's quite the mounting angle on the steering box?  :clueless: Is the center link/steering wheel able to be centered in the car with the box on an angle like that?
    « Last Edit: January 31, 2017 - 08:05:29 AM by brads70 »
    Logged
    Brad
    1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
    Barrie,Ontario,Canada
    Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

    My restoration thread 
    http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
     My handling upgrade post
    http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

    Offline AU6pack

    • Jr. Member
    • **
    • Posts: 172
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #51 on: January 31, 2017 - 06:32:16 PM »
    Quote from: brads70 on January 31, 2017 - 08:02:06 AM
    That's quite the mounting angle on the steering box?  :clueless: Is the center link/steering wheel able to be centered in the car with the box on an angle like that?

    Hi Brad. It does have quite an angle but it all bolted up without any difficulty. I will check it properly next week - and may be asking some dumb questions then...
    Logged
    Craig
    Melbourne, Australia
    1970 Challenger 416 6 pak
    Resto thread - http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=114787.0

    Offline AU6pack

    • Jr. Member
    • **
    • Posts: 172
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #52 on: January 31, 2017 - 06:34:30 PM »
    Quote from: MoparCar on January 31, 2017 - 08:01:10 AM
    Looks great! Did you shorten the steering shaft for the u-joint to Borgeson box? Nice job!
    Wes

    Thanks Wes. Yep had to cut about an inch off the shaft. It is much smaller and lighter than the original unit. Anyone got any feed back on the Borgeson box? I'm kinda mad I didn't go with Rack & Pinion now though.
    Logged
    Craig
    Melbourne, Australia
    1970 Challenger 416 6 pak
    Resto thread - http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=114787.0

    Offline AU6pack

    • Jr. Member
    • **
    • Posts: 172
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #53 on: January 31, 2017 - 06:49:25 PM »
    Got the car on the ground. There appears to be a honking horizontal gap below the bumper and the rear valance. It looks big, black and crappy  :22yikes:

    Checking out other cars on the net it looks like there is a factory gap, but nothing like what I've got. Further tweaking closed it up about 1/2" more but it still looks bad.

    Anyone got a pic of theirs or can shed some light on why my gap is like the Grand Canyon?
    Logged
    Craig
    Melbourne, Australia
    1970 Challenger 416 6 pak
    Resto thread - http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=114787.0

    Offline brads70

    • C-C.com Expert
    • ********
    • Posts: 18747
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #54 on: January 31, 2017 - 07:11:04 PM »
    I suspect your using a repop bumper. They are bowed. I did too and noticed its not the same an the originals . I noticed it looking at the gap/distance from the bumper to the bottom of the tail lights .
     Its closer in the middle ( reverse lens ) then the gap gets bigger as you get towards the outside. This " flaw" also effects how the bumperetts fit . Drives me nuts I think at some point I'll get my original re-chromed.  :pullinghair:
    Logged
    Brad
    1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
    Barrie,Ontario,Canada
    Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

    My restoration thread 
    http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
     My handling upgrade post
    http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

    Offline brads70

    • C-C.com Expert
    • ********
    • Posts: 18747
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #55 on: January 31, 2017 - 07:15:53 PM »
    Quote from: AU6pack on January 31, 2017 - 06:32:16 PM
    Hi Brad. It does have quite an angle but it all bolted up without any difficulty. I will check it properly next week - and may be asking some dumb questions then...

    The pitman arm and idler arm needs to be parallel in order for the steering geometry to work best.   
    Logged
    Brad
    1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
    Barrie,Ontario,Canada
    Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

    My restoration thread 
    http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
     My handling upgrade post
    http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

    Offline MoparCar

    • Full Member
    • ***
    • Posts: 611
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #56 on: January 31, 2017 - 07:59:43 PM »
    Quote from: brads70 on January 31, 2017 - 07:15:53 PM
    The pitman arm and idler arm needs to be parallel in order for the steering geometry to work best.   

    Brad, when you say parallel which plane are you referring to? Top view or side? Do you mean if looking at the side view the angle of the splined steering sector needs to be the same as the centerline of the mount on the idler or are you referring to more or less a top view meaning they need to be parallel side by side? I hope that makes sense.

    Thanks, Wes
    Logged

    Offline GoodysGotaCuda

    • Sr. Resident
    • ******
    • Posts: 5392
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #57 on: January 31, 2017 - 08:22:38 PM »
    Quote from: MoparCar on January 31, 2017 - 07:59:43 PM
    Brad, when you say parallel which plane are you referring to? Top view or side? Do you mean if looking at the side view the angle of the splined steering sector needs to be the same as the centerline of the mount on the idler or are you referring to more or less a top view meaning they need to be parallel side by side? I hope that makes sense.

    Thanks, Wes

    Sideview. The Pitman Arm and Idler need to be parallel with the Y-axis of the car.
    Logged
    Build Page: Goody's 'Cuda Build Page
    1976 Dodge Warlock
    1972 Barracuda - 5.7 Hemi + T56 Magnum

    Wheel & Tire Specs:Link

    Offline brads70

    • C-C.com Expert
    • ********
    • Posts: 18747
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #58 on: January 31, 2017 - 08:53:44 PM »
    Quote from: MoparCar on January 31, 2017 - 07:59:43 PM
    Brad, when you say parallel which plane are you referring to? Top view or side? Do you mean if looking at the side view the angle of the splined steering sector needs to be the same as the centerline of the mount on the idler or are you referring to more or less a top view meaning they need to be parallel side by side? I hope that makes sense.

    Thanks, Wes

    Top view, looking from above down into the engine bay.
    Logged
    Brad
    1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
    Barrie,Ontario,Canada
    Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

    My restoration thread 
    http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
     My handling upgrade post
    http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

    Offline brads70

    • C-C.com Expert
    • ********
    • Posts: 18747
    Re: Aussie ‘E-Max’ style T/A Challenger
    « Reply #59 on: January 31, 2017 - 09:05:14 PM »
    I was looking for a picture to show you  and came across this article. http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1973-dodge-challenger-project-slick-qa1-suspension-upgrade/

    I'm thinking that angle of your steering box is going to cause you problems. I'm guessing it from the new steering box that the mounting plate was welded on out of position. From what I've read online is a common issue with these boxes. One of the reasons I don't have one.... I've never heard of an issue but I'm not that trusting of welding the mounting plate on such an important part as a steering box. But thats just me.....
    Logged
    Brad
    1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
    Barrie,Ontario,Canada
    Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

    My restoration thread 
    http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
     My handling upgrade post
    http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0
    Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7
    « previous next »