Brakes are making me pull my hair out!!!

[Tazinhawaii]

So I just bought a 71 Cuda with stock front disc and wilwood aftermarket rear discs installed.  All new brake lines and master cylinder.  I found that the brake lines were 'crossed' at the distribution block and front metering valve.  I fixed that, but still can't get the brakes to bleed out right.  I was wondering, with the rear disc conversion, do I need the metering block or can I get rid of it and run the front lines directly to the distribution block.  I think the metering valve is the source of my problems because the little nipple that sticks out is bent about 45 degrees.  If I try bleeding the brakes with the 2 person method (one pressing brake while cracking the bleeder), I get very little fluid if any out.  Mighty vac gets mostly just air.  No leaks in the lines.

So, after the babbling, I'm thinking of getting rid of the metering valve (since now disc/disc) and see if that works.  Any ideas???

Thanks,
Derrick

[Chryco Psycho]

You will probably still need a metering / proportioning valve but I would recommend the adjustable 5 line unit
Of course I cannot find it now 

[Bullitt-]

You will probably still need a metering / proportioning valve but I would recommend the adjustable 5 line unit
Of course I cannot find it now 

this one?

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=66387.msg695264#msg695264

[Chryco Psycho]

Yes but ,not listed on Summit right now

[Bullitt-]

Yes but ,not listed on Summit right now

Jegs http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-11179/10002/-1?parentProductId=1284815

[JoeGrapes]

I have 4 wheel Wilwood disc brakes. I changed the stock master to a Dr Diff master. I kept the stock prop valve but I took out the rear metering valve spring. I had already installed an adjustable valve in the rear brake line. I put it in the line where it runs under the front seat. I had a heck of a time trying to bleed the rear brakes. I tried both the vacuum and manual method and like you as pulling my hair out because hardly any fluid was coming out. Then I remembered about the valve I put in the rear line. Once I opened it up all the way my problem was solved. Check and see if the last guy put a valve in like I did.

[Tazinhawaii]

Thanks all.  There isn't a manual valve installed.  I think tomorrow I'm going to get rid of the metering valve and just hook the front lines up to two of the ports on the distribution block and at least see if I can get them bled.  Then if the rears lock up to much when driving, I'll install a manual valve in the rear lines to fix it.  If that does fix it, then I have no idea what's next. 

[Chryco Psycho]

makes sense to me

[shadango]

Thanks all.  There isn't a manual valve installed.  I think tomorrow I'm going to get rid of the metering valve and just hook the front lines up to two of the ports on the distribution block and at least see if I can get them bled.  Then if the rears lock up to much when driving, I'll install a manual valve in the rear lines to fix it.  If that does fix it, then I have no idea what's next.

This may not help but...

I have mopar disks on the front (NYer calipers I think) and summit disks on the back (turbo tbird units)......my car was a 4 drum car with just the dist block.....I am still running that and also have a manual valve for the rears....though I am running the rear wide open as I recall.

[Tazinhawaii]

This may not help but...

I have mopar disks on the front (NYer calipers I think) and summit disks on the back (turbo tbird units)......my car was a 4 drum car with just the dist block.....I am still running that and also have a manual valve for the rears....though I am running the rear wide open as I recall.

Thank you.  That makes me feel much better about how it may turn out.  Plan to try doing this tonight/tomorrow.  Of course, I just got a bunch of other toys for the car that I'm sure will distract me...   

[Tazinhawaii]

 

YEAH!  I took the metering valve out, ran the front brake lines directly to the distribution block, and PERFECTION!!!  All the brakes now work and I haven't even bled them yet.  It looks like the metering block was the problem.  Thanks for all the help.  Now I'm on to installing the new wiring harnesses tomorrow.  Got the new (well used) rallye dash today.  Got rid of the ammeter and installed a volt meter in it's place from a cheap sunpro volt meter.  Almost looks stock!  Making progress.  Sound mat comes tomorrow so I can get the interior back together this weekend except the new steering column which won't be hear for about 3 weeks.

Derrick     

[Chryco Psycho]

 

[YellowThumper]