Author Topic: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion (Read 66243 times)

70chall440 · « **Reply #150 on:** October 19, 2016 - 06:04:27 PM »

I made a connector wire and by passed the resistor, no joy. I have a brown and red wire coming to the resistor on the right side (as looking at it, left side if sitting in the car) and a dark blue wire on the other side. If I were to disassemble the plugs and connect the blue and brown wire, where does the red one go to?

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #151 on:** October 19, 2016 - 10:36:34 PM »

Factory wiring doesn't have a red wire there. Where does yours come from or got to?

70chall440 · « **Reply #152 on:** October 19, 2016 - 11:28:23 PM »

to be honest, I am not sure but I will have to track it down. As I mentioned, I connected the blue and brown wires which didn't work so there must be something else disconnected in the system.

Separate subject, were you at the nationals last year?

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #153 on:** October 20, 2016 - 02:12:15 AM »

Use a test light to verify that your switched 12v is hot.

Yes, last year I was at the Nationals in my Pace Car. It is EFI too.

70chall440 · « **Reply #154 on:** October 20, 2016 - 12:19:04 PM »

I knew I had seen that pace car.. I was at the Nats as well and walking the event. Nice car.

I will be checking it out soon; I have been trying to get my EFI system functioning properly and since the car starts with the remote switch, the key issue hasn't been a priority.

67vertman · « **Reply #155 on:** October 20, 2016 - 12:27:05 PM »

I had the same issue that you did trying to get the idle down. I thought it was the throttle blades, as my air meter showed more vacuum in the front two ports. It turned out to be a vacuum leak from under the throttle bodies mounting plate where it attaches to the intake manifold. I had to remove the throttle bodies and tighten all the Allen head screws.

70chall440 · « **Reply #156 on:** October 20, 2016 - 12:39:38 PM »

Quote from: 67vertman on October 20, 2016 - 12:27:05 PM

I had the same issue that you did trying to get the idle down. I thought it was the throttle blades, as my air meter showed more vacuum in the front two ports. It turned out to be a vacuum leak from under the throttle bodies mounting plate where it attaches to the intake manifold. I had to remove the throttle bodies and tighten all the Allen head screws.

Good info, I will look at that. I discovered yesterday that the throttle blades in the outboard TBs were not set up the same and were affecting my ability to get the idle down. I disconnected the common rod and set them individually; now it will idle at around 859-900. The problem I have now is the IAC; I cannot get it set up to any level without the car running at a high RPM, more to the point is that I cannot adjust the IAC at all; nothing I do with the throttle bodies affects it unless I increase throttle significantly and then the IAC goes to Max and stays there. I have the timing set at 15 deg currently and am going to retard that slightly to 12 deg but I am thinking there is a problem with the IAC; it is not being powered correctly and/or the ECU is not controlling it correctly.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #157 on:** October 20, 2016 - 01:24:08 PM »

You have to wire your IAC to match the ECU that you are running. Ohm out the 4 pins, then match tha A and B hi and low according to the Holley wiring diagram. The vacuum issue would have been solved long ago if you blocked off the front and rear like I suggested pages ago.
Also, if you open the throttle and the IAC goes to max, you have A and B wired backwards. Swap A- and B-, and A+ and B+.

70chall440 · « **Reply #158 on:** October 20, 2016 - 02:18:13 PM »

Thanks Rob, however I really didn't think I needed to tear apart that new intake to install it, also it needs the outboard TBS as a part of the overall running equation. It is a work in progress and I will overcome it eventually.

67vertman · « **Reply #159 on:** October 20, 2016 - 04:57:39 PM »

Rich sent me this when I was setting up my unit. Hopefully it will help you.

Use the Idle Speed vs Coolant Temp to adjust the warmed up idle speed. You should have already engaged the timing trim table to help stabilize idle. I monitor the IAC position just to make sure it can help control the idle RPM.

There�s one other parameter I should mention at this point: View/Idle Functions/Throttle Follower . When you quickly release the throttle, a normal engine might overshoot and die. The throttle follower holds the IAC open and then gradually backs off to �ease into� a normal idle. This stops an engine from stumbling on a quick throttle release.

Setting the Idle A/F Ratio
Then after the engine is up to temperature, and the CTS correction has gone to zero, you set the basic VE table in the idle range only. Highlight a block of cells (I do a 3 by 3 array) around where the engine is idling and use the page up/page down keys to bump the values up or down while monitoring the actual A/F ratio on the dashboard. Remember increasing the VE values adds fuel and decreasing the VE values removes fuel. Your target A/F ratio for idle, should be around 14:1 (low 13s with a blown engine), but the actual value will depend on what your particular engine wants. Once the engine has warmed up and the Idle A/F ratio is set, now you can go back to the IAC settings and correct or reset the throttle plate position so that the IAC can do its work. You should now have an engine that starts, warms up, and idles.

Adjusting the Throttle Opening vs IAC
After the engine is fully warmed up and idling, if the IAC is full open, it�s trying to bleed in more air to get the idle up. So open the throttle plates until the IAC drops. If the IAC is full closed, then close the throttle plates, until the IAC opens a small amount. When completed, the ideal IAC position for a warmed up idling engine at the correct idle RPM is near the bottom of its range. This gives the IAC plenty of room to catch a dying engine or compensate for an automatic going into gear etc.

67vertman · « **Reply #160 on:** October 20, 2016 - 05:03:05 PM »

I could never get mine to run perfectly at home. I had to take it to a shop that had a chassis dyno.

70chall440 · « **Reply #161 on:** October 20, 2016 - 09:26:35 PM »

Quote from: 67vertman on October 20, 2016 - 04:57:39 PM

Rich sent me this when I was setting up my unit. Hopefully it will help you.

Use the Idle Speed vs Coolant Temp to adjust the warmed up idle speed. You should have already engaged the timing trim table to help stabilize idle. I monitor the IAC position just to make sure it can help control the idle RPM.

There�s one other parameter I should mention at this point: View/Idle Functions/Throttle Follower . When you quickly release the throttle, a normal engine might overshoot and die. The throttle follower holds the IAC open and then gradually backs off to �ease into� a normal idle. This stops an engine from stumbling on a quick throttle release.

Setting the Idle A/F Ratio
Then after the engine is up to temperature, and the CTS correction has gone to zero, you set the basic VE table in the idle range only. Highlight a block of cells (I do a 3 by 3 array) around where the engine is idling and use the page up/page down keys to bump the values up or down while monitoring the actual A/F ratio on the dashboard. Remember increasing the VE values adds fuel and decreasing the VE values removes fuel. Your target A/F ratio for idle, should be around 14:1 (low 13s with a blown engine), but the actual value will depend on what your particular engine wants. Once the engine has warmed up and the Idle A/F ratio is set, now you can go back to the IAC settings and correct or reset the throttle plate position so that the IAC can do its work. You should now have an engine that starts, warms up, and idles.

Adjusting the Throttle Opening vs IAC
After the engine is fully warmed up and idling, if the IAC is full open, it�s trying to bleed in more air to get the idle up. So open the throttle plates until the IAC drops. If the IAC is full closed, then close the throttle plates, until the IAC opens a small amount. When completed, the ideal IAC position for a warmed up idling engine at the correct idle RPM is near the bottom of its range. This gives the IAC plenty of room to catch a dying engine or compensate for an automatic going into gear etc.

Thanks, I will study this and try to apply it. I didn't work on tuning today because I was trying to sort out some other issues such as my high speed (read expensive) plug wires. They would not stay on the plugs for some reason, so I had to pull them and replace them with a set of Accel 8mm wires (which fit..). I am also chasing the starting issue with the key.

70chall440 · « **Reply #162 on:** October 20, 2016 - 09:48:00 PM »

So I tested the brown and blue wires as suggested on this forum; both work as they are supposed to, yet the car will not start with the key; so something else is disconnected.

brads70 · « **Reply #163 on:** October 21, 2016 - 04:00:02 PM »

Is the lever for the linkage on the column ( under the hood) in the correct position? Down I think it needs to be. That was an issue with mine as I don't have any of the stock linkage so it was flopping around , wouldn't start and I think the key wouldn't come out right I think was also an issue?

70chall440 · « **Reply #164 on:** October 21, 2016 - 05:41:48 PM »

The linkage on the column has always been unhooked (requires me to physically rotate the collar to remove the key) but it could be involved somehow, I will check into it. Thanks

Author Topic: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion (Read 66243 times)

70chall440

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

ShelbyDogg

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

70chall440

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

ShelbyDogg

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

70chall440

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

67vertman

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

70chall440

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

ShelbyDogg

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

70chall440

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

67vertman

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

67vertman

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

70chall440

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

70chall440

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

brads70

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

70chall440

Re: 70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion