70 Challenger RT - EFI 6 Pack Conversion

[marc70challenger]

Yes, but my ECU toggles the GND to turn on the pump. Not sure about the Holley.  I also use a diode to kill the flyback pulse when releasing. Make sure that you pay attention to polarity with the diode. If you hook it up backwards it open like a fuse and is worthless.
Remember. Electrons flow NEGATIVE to POSITIVE.

Leaving for a car show.  I'm out.

 Nice build 70Chall!

In shaking out the cobwebs, I've been reviewing electrical concepts and wiring.

That relay would be DPST right?  The ground from ECU throws the coil connecting 87 to 30 - and thus allowing juice to the pump?  Without coil activated, then 87a is connected to 30 by default. And thus switch provides juice?

[ShelbyDogg]

Should have used a push button switch for the test button. On when you press it, off when you don't.

[70chall440]

Nice build 70Chall!

In shaking out the cobwebs, I've been reviewing electrical concepts and wiring.

That relay would be DPST right?  The ground from ECU throws the coil connecting 87 to 30 - and thus allowing juice to the pump?  Without coil activated, then 87a is connected to 30 by default. And thus switch provides juice?

My pump takes 12V + and the ECU provides that. On my Cuda, it is negative switched.

As to your question, I would say that pole 30 energizes the relay and when power is sent to 86 or 87a, it powers 87.

[70chall440]

Should have used a push button switch for the test button. On when you press it, off when you don't.

The switch has 2 positions, up is momentary (like a push button) whereas the bottom stays on. My reasoning here was/is that as I normally work alone, if there is a leak in the rear, I need to leave the pump on and go an look quickly.

[ShelbyDogg]

Your diagram as pictured will not work with the switch going to 87a. Redraw it with the way that you got it to work. With your pump on 87, no way.

[70chall440]

I drew it as I wired it and it works. I bench tested the layout which is how I came up with the layout. I am not saying it is "the way" but I tried all of the other ways and none of them gave me the result I was looking for.

[ShelbyDogg]

Then you are using a double 87 terminal relay and not an 87a relay. It might confuse other readers trying to hook up a similar setup. Just so they know now than later. A standard relay uses an 87a-NC and a 87-NO contact. Yours are both NO contacts.

[70chall440]

I believe you are right; I didn't think about it until just now, but the relay I used was one I had left over from a lighting project which was acquired at a local parts store; what would normally say "87a" says "87N" I think. I have another and will look at it.

[crash340]

Righto, enough on relays, its been a good lesson,,,, now fire the damn thing up man

[70chall440]

Righto, enough on relays, its been a good lesson,,,, now fire the damn thing up man

Now I have to reclock the intermediate gear so I can get the distributor cap on, then make the plug wires, then.... perhaps fire it up.

[marc70challenger]

I liked all the mechanical engineering courses .... but EE I would lose traction at some point .... ..... good review and stuff!  Thanks!!

Now time to get her ...


Oh ... and you got me thinking of what intake when we do EFI on The Pumpkin ... was always going to do fuel rail injection system - but with single intake ... now ... hmmmmm .... that set up you have is sweet looking   

[70chall440]

I got the intermediate shaft reclocked so that I could get the cap on; no issues there. While this is pretty simple, you have to reindex the distributor body each time to ensure that the cam and crank signals are aligned, so it take a little work. The pic here is where I started, but I thought I would show it just for fun. For anyone reading this that doesn't know how you reclock it; it takes a big screw driver in the slot, then rotate it and the gear will walk out. Then you turn it and try and get it to drop back in. It takes a little bit as the end of the shaft has a hex on it that goes into the oil pump and you got to play with it a little to get it to drop in. You can turn the pump if you have or make a long shaft to stick down there and rotate the pump, but I didn't need to do that.

I then moved on to making the plug wires. I decided to try Blue Streak wires; they looked interesting as they come with number tabs, thermal covering and heat sleeves as well as retainers as well as a tool to assemble them. It is a pretty cool setup and seemingly very well made wires. I got 2 made (#1 and #3) and then had to work on my new front gate.

[Challenger in NC]

I got the intermediate shaft reclocked so that I could get the cap on; no issues there. While this is pretty simple, you have to reindex the distributor body each time to ensure that the cam and crank signals are aligned, so it take a little work. The pic here is where I started, but I thought I would show it just for fun. For anyone reading this that doesn't know how you reclock it; it takes a big screw driver in the slot, then rotate it and the gear will walk out. Then you turn it and try and get it to drop back in. It takes a little bit as the end of the shaft has a hex on it that goes into the oil pump and you got to play with it a little to get it to drop in. You can turn the pump if you have or make a long shaft to stick down there and rotate the pump, but I didn't need to do that.

I then moved on to making the plug wires. I decided to try Blue Streak wires; they looked interesting as they come with number tabs, thermal covering and heat sleeves as well as retainers as well as a tool to assemble them. It is a pretty cool setup and seemingly very well made wires. I got 2 made (#1 and #3) and then had to work on my new front gate.

Wow, those look fancy.

[70chall440]

Yes they are  I really like the thermal sleeves and socks. When put together, the wires are about 10mm (look very beefy)...

[70chall440]

For the benefit of those interested in this build and who are "EFI Challenged" as I am/was; let me share yesterday's adventures. As noted, I got all of the plug wires built and installed, then begin to determine what we left to do in order to start the car. Here is where I hit a little bit of a wall in that having no experience with actually installing and using a EFI system, I did not know or understand if a program was already in the ECU or if I needed to load one, etc. Therefore I checked all of the connections and plugged in the laptop and begin to experiment to see if the car would start (it wouldn't); nothing was working (no fuel, no spark); so I concluded that the ECU did not have a program and was not setup. This resulted in a call to Rich @ FASTman; he was very helpful in walking me through building a program within the Holley software that will allow me to get the car started (hopefully).

I have to admit that I was a little intimidated due to a distinct lack of experience and knowledge; however after a little while and referral to the "quick start" guide; I believe I am positioned now to move forward and get this car running. I am sure there are more gremlins waiting for me; but so goes hotrodding; one problem at a time.

the one thing I am trying to figure out is where/how to connect my tach; since I am no longer using any of the factory ignition I am going to have to connect the tach most likely to the MSD 6A (I believe to the grey wire); however I am not sure and none of the wiring diagrams address a 6A and Holley system; so I will have to experiment a little.