Let me start by giving y’all as much info as possible without wasting too much of your time.
This is a brand new rebuilt stroked 451.
10.5 : 1, Comp ratio. MP stage 6 heads,
Edelbrock performer RPM.
Hughes engines BB HYD FLAT TAPPET CAM 232/236 -110ºLSA LOBE LIFT .357"/.364" with new lifters, springs, and pushrods recommended for this cam.
1.6 ratio roller rockers.
New quick fuel 780CFM Carb.
New MP Chrome Box.
http://www.manciniracing.com/chromeecu.htmlNew Petronix flame thrower III coil.
http://pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/45000_volt_ft3.aspxNew firecore vacuum advance distributor.
http://www.manciniracing.com/maravaadeldi1.htmlBasically everything is new except the original wiring harness. Like I stated before I have removed the ballast resistor because I have read that it is not needed with electronic distributor and that coil. I spliced the blue run wire and the brown start wires together and ran 1 wire to the + side of the coil.
The – side of coil is wired to the MP chrome box and the dash tachometer. I am getting approximately 11.05 Volts at the + side of the coil with the ignition on and the same voltage with key in the start position but with the starter wire unplugged. The old wires in the harness must be adding some resistance in the circuit. I have not checked the voltage with the engine running; didn’t have time.
I have upgraded the alternator to a Denso 120 amp 3 wire and the voltage regulator is also new. I have also run a 6 gage wire from the alternator to the starter relay and replaced the original harness alt wire with a 10 gage wire thru the bulkhead wired direct to the wire that goes to the amp meter. The other side of the amp meter terminal has a 10 gage wire back to the starter relay so in essence the dash is getting power from both sides and the amp meter is still in the circuit but doing nothing. I don’t know if this has effected anything but someone smarter than me can be the judge of that.
Now I will chronicle my first start cam break in episode.
Before starting the motor I followed Hughes Engines (Cam manufacture) directions by first priming the oil pump by hand and pumping oil up into the valve train. I set the motor at 12deg BTDC and the distributor rotor just past the #1 plug wire, and pumped fuel up to the carb with the electric fuel pump.
Now I was ready to start the motor; I gave the carb 2 to 3 pumps and pulled the trigger on the remote starter switch. The motor started within 1 revolution; I mean it started so fast it surprised me. I immediately brought the RPM up to what I thought was about 2000 RPM by ear because my tach was not working. The cam manufactures instructions said to run the motor 30 minutes between 2000 and 2500 rpm and if you had any small leaks that were not dangerous to run the motor at least 10 min without turning it off.
It was running fairly smooth for about five minutes then my power steering gear blew a seal and blew power steering fluid all over the red hot headers and immediately caught on fire.
So… I immediately turned the ignition off and put the fire out; no damage I’m happy to say.
A fire extinguisher is a tool that people tend to forget to have around and I’m telling you I’m glad I had one!
The steering gear was rebuilt prior to engine install but the valve had not been adjusted. I have not installed all of the steering components and the car is up on jack stands. During the first start cam break in the steering gear had self steered to the right and stayed there until the seal had blown.
Any way since the motor had only run for 5 minutes I was worried that restarting the motor might do some damage to the cam. I called the manufacture to see what they suggested. They suggested that I remove the intake and valley pan and re-grease the lobes of the cam; so I did. I put it all back together and was ready for round 2.
I did everything exactly like the first time accept this time It would not start. I was getting spark and fuel but would not start. So… I figured that I must not have gotten the intake seated properly to the heads and I had a major vacuum leak. I am using a mancini racing aluminum valley pan and the bottom of the runners on the intake were touching it holding the intake up slightly. I clearanced the bottom of the casting to fix that problem.
Again after whirling the motor over so many times trying to get it started I thought I would re-grease the cam…so I did. Put it all back together again.
Time for round 3.
I had tested the engine analyzer tachometer on another vehicle and a forklift and it worked ok on both of them so I proceeded to start it up. Got it started although not as fast as the first time and the tach was not working so once again I am trying to get the motor to RPM by ear. Left the distributor where it was from startup; it was running fairly smooth and all I wanted to do is get the cam broken in. Ran the motor for about 15 minutes until coolant started gushing from radiator cap. Now I have a new problem.
The radiator is also brand new 4 core with two 12” electric fans with 4 gallons of coolant in the system. It had a brand new 180 deg thermostat. The cap was closed tight and maybe it was just burping air out of the system but it startled be and the motor started to stumble a bit so I shut it off. It was about 100 degrees that day but I didn't expect that.
During all of these break in attempts I noticed how hot the ignition box was getting. It is mounted on the pass side inner fender well near where the horns mount far enough from the headers I think.
Any way this is where I am at, right now. I think I am past the point of having to re-grease the cam lobes but I sure would like to get this thing to run for another 15 minutes to be sure. I am using the Joe Gibbs break in oil the cam manufacture recommended. I have heard all of these horror stories of people wiping there cams out by not using the right oil so I am doing exactly what the manufacture suggests.
I have tried to do everything right but maybe not. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Topic: I have an Ignition question and your help would be appreciated (Read 3410 times)
