Author Topic: Crank the Torsion Bars  (Read 7581 times)

Offline EMCD

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Crank the Torsion Bars
« on: August 31, 2016 - 06:19:25 PM »
I need to raise my SB Cuda  about 1-1.5" inches in front to gain a little tire space. I'm getting a slight rub at lock on either end. After I crank the TB's, how long until the settle down a bit? for 1" should I crank them to 1.25, then drive it around the block? Bounce the front end a bit to get them to relax a bit? any advice is appreciated. Stock SB T-bars, LCA and FF tubular UCA, factory spindles, brakes, etc.




Offline dfrazz

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2016 - 07:41:46 PM »
When I adjusted mine I went about 1/4" past where I wanted them, then bounced/drove around and remeasured.  It really depends on your car though, some will want more and some less.  You have to adjust and keep trying until you get it right.

One question, are you rubbing on the frame rail or fender?  If on the frame rail, raising the car will not help. 

Offline anlauto

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2016 - 07:58:34 PM »
During adjustments you should loosen the large nut on the front of the control arm pivot shaft.....otherwise you're just putting strain on the rubber bushing :2cents:
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Offline EMCD

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2016 - 08:56:26 PM »
It's on the outer fender edge. I had a buddy turn it all the way and it barely contacts the trim. I can see if I bumped it up an inch, it would be perfect. I like the lowered look, but functionally it's not ideal.

Offline dfrazz

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2016 - 11:03:44 AM »
I like the lowered look, but functionally it's not ideal.

There is a big difference with cars in pics that look cool and cars that are actually driven.

Offline EMCD

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #5 on: September 01, 2016 - 12:09:41 PM »
I got an appointment to get the alignment done. I'm adding the firm feel steering arm sleeve, new 727 cooling lines, cranking the TBs 1.25" and alignment. Hopefully, i'll see a difference. I've also added the radiator fan shroud and clutch fan. man, the car runs perfectly and at 185* all day long with me getting on it all the time. it never maintained 185 with those electric fans.

Offline dodj

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2016 - 12:51:05 PM »
I got an appointment to get the alignment done. I'm adding the firm feel steering arm sleeve, new 727 cooling lines, cranking the TBs 1.25" and alignment. Hopefully, i'll see a difference. I've also added the radiator fan shroud and clutch fan. man, the car runs perfectly and at 185* all day long with me getting on it all the time. it never maintained 185 with those electric fans.
Make sure you are happy with the ride height before the alignment.

I hear you on the fans. A lot of people expend a lot of time and $ on electric fans only to go back to clutch mechanical for simplicity and functionality. :2cents:
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Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2016 - 01:17:14 PM »
Have them use the alignment machine to check the rear while you are there

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Offline burdar

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2016 - 01:52:52 PM »
What about this option............

The lower ball joints have a "stop" built into them.  The "stop" contacts the lower control arm and keeps the wheels from being turned any more.  By the sound of your post, you are just "barely touching".  Why not put a little piece of rubber or metal on the lower control arms where the lower ball joint "stop" makes contact.  That will slightly limit how far you can turn the steering wheel.  That might be enough so the tire doesn't rub.  How often do you have to have the wheel all the way to "lock"?  Not very often.  A small decrease in turning radius might not be noticeable. Try putting about 1/4" of material on the LCA and see what it does.

Offline EMCD

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #9 on: September 02, 2016 - 04:18:43 PM »
another reason is that I have a larger tranny pan. I have about 3" of clearance under that finned pan. If I raise it up a bit, i'll have less of a chance of hitting it on speed bumps. how do they d0 a 4 wheel alignment on a ridge axle rear end? I thought those 4 wheel alignments were a scam?

Offline burdar

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #10 on: September 02, 2016 - 04:34:04 PM »
Raising the front 1" doesn't mean the trans pan will rise that much.  Put a jack under the K-member and jack the car up 1".  Then measure the difference in trans pan height.

Post a picture of your front end height right now.  A vehicle's stance is very important to the overall look.  I wouldn't want to raise the front end unless there were no other options.  :2cents:
« Last Edit: September 02, 2016 - 04:54:06 PM by burdar »

Offline HP2

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #11 on: September 02, 2016 - 04:56:25 PM »
how do they d0 a 4 wheel alignment on a ridge axle rear end? I thought those 4 wheel alignments were a scam?

They can check side to side wheelbase differences and the resulting thrust angles on a solid rear with no trouble. Typically not necessary, but not a bad thing to do if you have a freshly rebuilt suspension or a annoying habit you're trying to trouble shoot.

Offline EMCD

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #12 on: September 02, 2016 - 05:08:25 PM »
too low? the tires are about 2" up into the fenders

Offline Katfish

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #13 on: September 02, 2016 - 05:15:31 PM »
Your rear looks too high IMO, front could come up a little, but not much

Offline EMCD

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Re: Crank the Torsion Bars
« Reply #14 on: September 02, 2016 - 05:35:07 PM »
they're the original springs, not re-arched or anything. I dig the look, but would suffice it for better steering/handling.