What is the best Aftermarket Suspension System for my 71 572 Hemi Cuda Restomod

[BobBejeski]

I am gathering parts for my 1971 Cuda Resto mod Project.  Its a non numbers matching 340 car that was totally disassembled about 10 years ago, painted in FE5 Red,  and re-assembled.    I am going to put a MuscleMotors or Tim Banning 572 Fuel Injected Hemi and Passon 4 Speed w/Overdrive, with a Dana 60.  Leaning towards keeping my 15" Rallyes and going with 11" Wilwood on all 4's.   Although the 17" Year Ones are tempting me,  just don't know if I like the look of the bigger wheels.   

  However........I thought I was set on the RMS AlterKation and Street Lynx system,    but I am getting mixed reviews.  A lot of people like the Hotchkis TVS and keeping the original K member, but getting the better Torsion Bars, and Stiffening the Body in a number of areas.     The shop that is doing the work really wants to do the AlterKation front Coil System,  and CALTRAC Split MonoSpring and Traction Bar setup in the rear.   

 What about a Hotchkis Front and CALTRAC Rear?

   This is mostly for street with occasional strip use (not any kind of points series, just non serious bracket racing on occasion)   I will admit suspension is one of my knowledge weak areas,  so I am not very familiar with all the systems and parts language, but I have money set aside, and want to get good input before I buy and then its too late.  Not so worried about best pricing,  just want the best system.    I am open to recommendations.  I would also like to hear from people who have these setups and how they like them/don't like them.   If there are other systems on the market I am not considering,  please share.

  Thanks!
 
  -Bob   

[Chryco Psycho]

Same guy with the same answer
 No one has EVER made the right lower ball joint for Mopars to convert to front steer so you need to stay with rear steer & upgrade the stock parts , there are a number of people here who have done exactly what you want to do , Frame stiffening , & upgrade suspension components are the answer , Hotchkis for sure , firm feel has a lot of the stiffening parts too , I would do Hotchkis front & rear for the best balance & use a double adjustable shock like QA1, foing this you can get a Mopar to corner @ 1G or above

[BobBejeski]

Same guy with the same answer
 No one has EVER made the right lower ball joint for Mopars to convert to front steer so you need to stay with rear steer & upgrade the stock parts , there are a number of people here who have done exactly what you want to do , Frame stiffening , & upgrade suspension components are the answer , Hotchkis for sure , firm feel has a lot of the stiffening parts too , I would do Hotchkis front & rear for the best balance & use a double adjustable shock like QA1, foing this you can get a Mopar to corner @ 1G or above

  I don't mind one bit,   each time you post,  I get a few more good details.    I just need to figure out what parts are NOT INCLUDED  in the Hotchis TVS $3,400 package and what parts I need to order separately or get from different companies, like the double adjustable shock absorbers you mention.    Remember, I want to go all out,  not skimp.    One thing ,  you mention about the front steer vs rear steer.  What does that mean?  Sorry for my ignorance. Still learning...

  -Bob

[Chryco Psycho]

Akerman angle
 if the steering is behind the ball joint centerline the tie rod must be inside of the ball joint , if the steering is in front the tierod must be outside of the ball joint this will turn the inner tire more as you corner , everyone is trying to move the steering in front of the ball joint & get it away from the oil pan & headers which makes sense but there is no lower ball joint for Mopars to position the tie rods correctly so it never works right
 RMS will give you the turning radius of an aircraft carrier in heavy seas
 pictures here https://www.google.com/search?q=akerman+angle+pictures&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=667&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwibjdijrO3OAhWGpR4KHUbqB5QQsAQIHQ

[Chryco Psycho]

in the picture you can see the line drawn from the center of the rear diff through the front ball joint , rear & front steer follow the same line so rear is inside the ball joint & front is outside through the same line from the rear diff center

[BobBejeski]

in the picture you can see the line drawn from the center of the rear diff through the front ball joint , rear & front steer follow the same line so rear is inside the ball joint & front is outside through the same line from the rear diff center

 OK,  I'm digesting those pics and think I'm getting the point.   I thought RMS made an upgrade to the AlterKation that was supposed to improve the steering radius issue....Read about in one of the members restoration threads,  but I cant find which one it was.     Thanks for the tutorial!

-Bob

[dfrazz]

I would go with Hotchkis but not the TVS since their subframe connectors hang pretty low.  I would piece in all of the Hotchkis parts instead, keep in mind their rear springs will lower your car 1-2".  I went with the most of the Hotchkis suspension parts on my '70 except the sub-frame connectors due the side exhaust and kept the stock rear springs.  I also went with 18x8 and 18x9.5 wheels for better traction. The car handles like its on rails!

[EMCD]

so, I lightly restomoded my 72 into a 71 Cuda. I did weld in US Tool frame rails and torque boxes, Firm Feel stage 3 steering box, firm feel tubular UCA, stock TB's, rear leafs, and KYB shocks. Personally, I think it handles like a dump truck. My 1999 Land Cruiser would beat it any day in a road course. Now, I've had other muscle car guys drive it and they say it handles great.

[dfrazz]

so, I lightly restomoded my 72 into a 71 Cuda. I did weld in US Tool frame rails and torque boxes, Firm Feel stage 3 steering box, firm feel tubular UCA, stock TB's, rear leafs, and KYB shocks. Personally, I think it handles like a dump truck. My 1999 Land Cruiser would beat it any day in a road course. Now, I've had other muscle car guys drive it and they say it handles great.

KYB shocks are too stiff IMO.  Hotchkis fox shocks, QA1 adjustables, or Bilsteins are far superior.

[Devil]

Here's the list of things I'm doing to my Challenger... in theory.  It should handle like a new Corvette after.

There is a few things I put in the spreadsheet that are the same, just different styles.  Such as the Firm Feel Stage 3 box or the Borgeson/Auto Craft new Power Steering box.  Or the Hotchkis or ProForged (Same arms, just hotchkis relabeld).

Also the US Car Tool stiffening kit comes with floor fitting sub-frame connectors, which is nice.

If you want the full spreadsheet and links, drop me an email.  HemiPwr70@yahoo.com

[EMCD]

I have about 80% of what you have detailed above, larger front and rear sway bars, UCAs, FF box, stiffener, shocks etc. If this is what a new vette feels like, I'd return it under the lemon law... maybe I expect too much?

[Devil]

I have about 80% of what you have detailed above, larger front and rear sway bars, UCAs, FF box, stiffener, shocks etc. If this is what a new vette feels like, I'd return it under the lemon law... maybe I expect too much?

I've been in the Hotchkis Challenger, and drive new Vettes.  And if your setup was properly balanced it should feel pretty good.  My friend currently has a similar setup, except a 4-link in the rear, and that thing is incredible. 

Also depends on your engine/trans combo.  If you have a big block or 2nd gen Hemi in the nose, it can throw it all off.

[onebadfish]

I have about 80% of what you have detailed above, larger front and rear sway bars, UCAs, FF box, stiffener, shocks etc. If this is what a new vette feels like, I'd return it under the lemon law... maybe I expect too much?

You say "stock torsion bars". May be your problem? When you say it rides like a dump truck what do you mean - too much body roll or too stiff...front and rear sway bars may be working against you if not set up properly?

I didn't get too involved with making mine handle like a vette. I'm more of a straight line - skinny torsion bar, weight transfer guy

[Chryco Psycho]

KYB are horrible , they ride far too hard

[Mopar Mitch]

For TBs, skip the skinny 1.1s.... just order the readily available FF 1.18... they are not as stiff as ppl think... you will not regret it... the thicker TBs will prevent unwanted excessive dive/lift/lean... or BETTER YET... request FF to make you a pair of 1.24 TBs... you'll only wonder why you didn't get these in the first place.

My 1.24 TBs are awesome!   Dbl-adj shocks (QA1 or Viking or similar) will be a huge compliment in fine-tuning the ride.