Anyone install a Firm Feel rear sway bar?

[KillerBee]

I'm wondering how the brackets are attached to the frame?

Does it use 4 screws that cut into the metal of the holes like the factory or 2 bolts with nuts per side with the bolts going all the way through the frame to the other side?

Thanks.

[shawge]

The FF brackets are attached to the frame with 2 bolts and nuts per side.  The bolts go all the way through the frame.  I welded a tubes in to prevent crushing the frame.

[KillerBee]

The FF brackets are attached to the frame with 2 bolts and nuts per side.  The bolts go all the way through the frame.  I welded a tubes in to prevent crushing the frame.

Thanks.

Did you cut open the frame to weld the tubes in?

Did you have to enlarge the factory mounting holes for the new bolts/nuts to fit through?

[shawge]

My car didn't have a factory sway bar so what I did was push the brackets up as far as they could go on the frame making sure the brackets were level with each other.  Marked the holes, removed the brackets, and drilled the holes.  Made the holes a little oversize to fit the tubes, welded them in, and ground the welds flush.

[djw383]

I had to work the ff brackets because they were a little too open and did not fit the frame. A little more pressing was needed to make them fit properly. Also, I was fitting them to the factory holes and the ff holes did not line  up. I made one set slotted to fit the factory. I called ff and they say said they did not have a factory one to copy so that is why all 4 holes did not line up.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

[KillerBee]

Thanks guys.

I think I'm going to use the factory sway bar.

It is still in nice condition and the bushings on the frame mounts are still nice.

I'm installing a 1967 B body rear end under the wife's Challenger and was thinking of getting a new sway bar from Firm Feel that is the right width but I think I'll try to bend the ends of the original sway bar in.

[shawge]

Someone on here had a B body rear and an E body rear sway bar also.  They made offset links to account for the width differences.

Edit: found it
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=106396.msg1044632#msg1044632

[KillerBee]

Someone on here had a B body rear and an E body rear sway bar also.  They made offset links to account for the width differences.

Edit: found it
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=106396.msg1044632#msg1044632

I remember that post and even saved the picture of the offset end links.
I also remember someone said they just bent the sway bar ends in a little to make it work.

[Aracer]

You need longer sway bar links to use a B-body axle housing in the E-body. It is not much of an angle to attach them, and it makes no difference. Don't waste your time with offset rods, since they are likely to rotate, out of wack.  I bought the factory bar kit back in 1976 from the Ply. Dealers parts dept. I think it was $125, and it lined up with factory frame holes. The key here is for the bar to sit correctly between the frame rails and not touch anything in it's range of movement. I also pay attention to the side view of the bar to point above, towards the front spring hangars.
      I am planning to buy a FF frame hung for my A-body Cuda, since all the rest of  the designs are a welding and visual mess. Firm Feel asks the measurement from frame to housing, so they can send the links they know will work.

[KillerBee]

You need longer sway bar links to use a B-body axle housing in the E-body. It is not much of an angle to attach them, and it makes no difference. Don't waste your time with offset rods, since they are likely to rotate, out of wack.  I bought the factory bar kit back in 1976 from the Ply. Dealers parts dept. I think it was $125, and it lined up with factory frame holes. The key here is for the bar to sit correctly between the frame rails and not touch anything in it's range of movement. I also pay attention to the side view of the bar to point above, towards the front spring hangars.
      I am planning to buy a FF frame hung for my A-body Cuda, since all the rest of  the designs are a welding and visual mess. Firm Feel asks the measurement from frame to housing, so they can send the links they know will work.

If I understand correctly I just need to use longer end links to make my factory sway bar work with a b body housing?
What body style longer end links are they or are they custom length?
Does Firm Feel sell these longer end links?

Thanks.

[Road_Runner]

If I understand correctly I just need to use longer end links to make my factory sway bar work with a b body housing?
What body style longer end links are they or are they custom length?
Does Firm Feel sell these longer end links?

Thanks.

I'm also interested in knowing what end links to use as I'm considering a B Body rear in the Barracuda myself.  End links for a specific make/model would be great, otherwise how much extra length are we talking about .5"?  .75"? etc. for a total length of   If somebody here has already done this it would be great to know what works.  Thanks.

[EB3-GranCoupe]

Installed the FF rear sway bar.  drilled & used the self tapping bolts.  no issues:







Not the best pics of the sway bar, sorry.  The handling is superb!

[soundcontrol]

I got one (FF) to install also, can someone explain to how the swaybar works?

[HP2]

As the car turns, the body rolls around an axis. This pushes the sway bar arm on the outside of the turn up.Since it is a bar connected on both ends,  this motion also tries to lift the inside tire creating torsion. This torsion then prevents the suspension on the inside from unloading and lifting the car while also pulling down on the mounting points to keep the body flat.

Think of them as torsion bars that run across the car instead of along the car.

[soundcontrol]

As the car turns, the body rolls around an axis. This pushes the sway bar arm on the outside of the turn up.Since it is a bar connected on both ends,  this motion also tries to lift the inside tire creating torsion. This torsion then prevents the suspension on the inside from unloading and lifting the car while also pulling down on the mounting points to keep the body flat.

Think of them as torsion bars that run across the car instead of along the car.

Great explanation, I learned something new, thanks!