I need a suspension game plan

[brads70]

I know what you mean. My Dougs headers are kissing speed bumps unless I go REALLY slow.

I have a decent game plan now.
Energy suspension bumpstops
1.12" T bars
Espo HD Springs

Still up in the air on the shocks. Leaning toward the QA1s, because they accommodate for ride height. But will the Bilsteins do the job? And will the Bilsteins bottom out like the stock length QA1s?
Also, has anyone run the 1.18 T bars?

Sounds good, I'd install the new springs before you buy shocks. Ride height will likely change. I have the 1.180" bars here but haven't installed them yet.

[72bluNblu]

I haven't had any problems bottoming my Bilstein RCD's. They used to advertise them for stock height or 1" lowered, although looking at PST's site I don't see the 1" lowered set anymore. Probably worth calling and asking. That said, I don't think the ones I actually have are the lowered set.

As far as them doing the job, they will. That's not to say they're the best option, but they do the job just fine. On my Duster I was running Bilstein's with 1.12" bars (300 lb/in wheel rate for A-bodies) and found that they did a good job. I had a chance to buy a mounted but not used set of non-adjustable Hotchkis Fox's for that car so I did, and I can say that the Hotchkis Fox's, even the non-adjustables, do a better job than the Bilstein's did on that car. It wasn't a night and day kind of difference, but it was noticeable. A little smoother on the lousy roads around here.

I haven't run the QA1's, so, no help there. The 1.18" torsion bars from Firm Feel have a 338 lb/in wheel rate, so, a lot stiffer than the E-body 1.12's which are 270 lb/in, and still a bit stiffer than the A-body 1.12" bars like I run on my Duster which are 300. I'm really happy with how the Duster handles and rides on the street, I think 300 lb/in is pretty close to perfect. But that car has a small block and a decent amount of things to lighten it, so, the 1.18's on an E-body might not be all that much stiffer for ride quality because of the extra weight. For a big block car I think they'd be the ticket. For a small block car you'd definitely want a good set of shocks to keep the ride quality reasonable on the street.

[RCCDrew]

Alright guys, QA1s it is.

Thank y'all for all the help! It really means a lot to me. I'll send progress reports as the parts come in.

[EB3-GranCoupe]

 

[Cudakiller70]

Me too 

[Mopar Mitch]

Don't be afraid of larger TBs... 1.12, 1.18 are just fine for the street/hwy.  Expect a slightly progressive stiffer ride, but they are not bad at all.   Add better shocks f/r, learn to adjust your tire psi, good alingments.. with hopeful pos caster and a little negative camber... and you'll be set.

After you install your 1.12 TBs, you'll ask... why you didn't go with the 1.18?  They really arne'y as stiff as you might think... I've tried multiple different size TBs in the past... and a few different leaf springs... and different shocks.

Also, some slightly stiffer leafs with minimal arch... not a high arch.. as compressed... flatter leafs give better handling response.

Adjustable shocks will give you the big advantage of fine-tuning your ride.. street/hwy... track/AX-HSAX/HPDE.

[72bluNblu]

Don't be afraid of larger TBs... 1.12, 1.18 are just fine for the street/hwy.  Expect a slightly progressive stiffer ride, but they are not bad at all.   Add better shocks f/r, learn to adjust your tire psi, good alingments.. with hopeful pos caster and a little negative camber... and you'll be set.

After you install your 1.12 TBs, you'll ask... why you didn't go with the 1.18?  They really arne'y as stiff as you might think... I've tried multiple different size TBs in the past... and a few different leaf springs... and different shocks.

Also, some slightly stiffer leafs with minimal arch... not a high arch.. as compressed... flatter leafs give better handling response.

Adjustable shocks will give you the big advantage of fine-tuning your ride.. street/hwy... track/AX-HSAX/HPDE.

I have never actually asked myself why I didn't go with 1.18's, and I've put about 60k miles on the 1.12's in my Challenger. 

The 1.12's are great on the street, and unless I was doing a lot of autoX or road racing I wouldn't go any bigger with a small block car for street use. Big block car would be a different story. Depends a lot on your tires too, unless you're running super sticky tires I think the 1.18's would be too much bar on the street for optimal handling. The 275/40/17's I run on my Challenger are fairly well matched to the 1.12's. They're a 300 treadwear tire, so, not super sticky, but they beat the crap out of anything DOT legal in a 15". If you got down to a 100 or even a 200 treadwear tire the 1.18's might be warranted.

[EMCD]

ok, here is what I've had done and what I think of the results. SB Cuda with a 408, 727, 3.73 gears.

PST 1.03 TB
US Car tool Torque boxes
US Car tool welding frame rails
FF stage 3 Steering box
FF pitman arm stabilizer
4x Bilstein RCD Shocks
F&R sway bars, (Rear is factory front is slightly larger than stock)

Before I had the Torque boxes, welding frame rails, KYB shocks and the car handled like a beat up dump truck. at times, it was scary to drive. I added the PST 1.03 TB's, pitman arm stabilizer & 4x Bilstein RCD Shocks and the car handles better than most new cars I've driven. it's taken this car from something that I didn't like to drive to something that I want to drive as my DD. I'm in love... Now, I think I need new rear leafs... the addiction goes on... I need a 12 step cuda recovery....

[dfrazz]

So glad you like the results!  It is really hard to describe until you actually do the upgrades and feel the difference yourself.

[EMCD]

dump truck to dream ride! now, let's discuss stock height leaf springs...

[RCCDrew]

Yeah, I'm up for that discussion. So, I haven't bought any parts yet. Here's what I have done. Cranked up the front ride height 1/2". That is the max ride height I can go with these clocked TBs. I then trimmed the bumpstops more. After that I installed some air shocks I had lying around just to experiment. Aired them up and took the car for a ride. What a difference! Some bumps I would cringe going over it flew over like nothing. I'm much happier with the ride like that. That said, it's not staying this way. I think I'm going to buy some Rear springs first. And the front bumpstops. Then the shocks. Then if I still need them, the TBs.

Leaf springs, anyone?

[EMCD]

So, I have probably 1k into the suspension parts and about 800 in labor. I'd use what I did and I bet you'll love it. I cannot say how happy I am. I wish I did it a year ago. I was fed up with the car and wanted to move it along. Now, it will take a good chunk of cash to pry it out of my hands. It's a total 180* change.

[dodj]

ok, here is what I've had done and what I think of the results. SB Cuda with a 408, 727, 3.73 gears.

FF pitman arm stabilizer

Was everything changed at once? Or did you get a chance to see if the stabilizer did anything noticeable by itself? I am thinking of ordering one but not sure if it actually makes a difference. Looking for feedback from anyone who installed one.

[EMCD]

No, I had the frame rails and toque boxes done when I did the body. Later, I did the steering box. It still handled badly. This last round included the steering sector support, TBs, and shocks. The support took all the play out of the wheel. The TBs kept me from bump steering all over the place and the shocks dampened it all. I was impressed how much the sector did for such a small part of the adds.

[RCCDrew]

Since my last post I have able to get a little work done on the car. I cranked the torsion bars all the way up , did an alignment on the car, and installed Espo HD 6 leaf springs, +1". I have also installed one subframe connector. Big difference in the way the car feels. Less rattles, less bottoming out. Still have to install the other connector. I think the next investment will be in some Bilsteins.