Anyone running high performance brake shoes in an all drum brake car?

[Road_Runner]

Doing a little research it seems some on the car blogs are sticking with their original drum brakes and running higher friction Kevlar (or other) lined brake shoes.  Anyone doing that here and if so can you comment on how they compare to standard disc brakes?  The 70 Roadrunner came with 3" wide front & 2.5" wide rear "police" drum brakes and I'm kind of wondering if swapping to non-original discs is a must for a street car.  Obviously I don't want to eat the back of a car suddenly braking in front of me, so originality only goes so far.  Just curious if anyone else has considered staying all drum. 

Thanks, Jim

[anlauto]

I've installed two of these Stage III kits and the owners were quite happy with them. One was on a 1970 Hemi GTX the other a 1969 383 Super Bee. Both big heavy cars and both stopped very well

 http://www.musclecarbrakes.com/stage3.html

[Road_Runner]

I've installed two of these Stage III kits and the owners were quite happy with them. One was on a 1970 Hemi GTX the other a 1969 383 Super Bee. Both big heavy cars and both stopped very well

 http://www.musclecarbrakes.com/stage3.html

Way cool! That is EXACTLY what I was looking for.  Thank you!!

[rUNCHARGER]

I've driven a few Hemi cars that I left the 11 inch drums on for originality reasons. Under about 80 MPH they will stop just fine in a panic situation once or even a few times. At higher speeds or multiple stops is where the disc brakes are so much better. You do have to make sure the adjustment is correct on them and have high quality lining for best results.

Sheldon

[anlauto]

Way cool! That is EXACTLY what I was looking for.  Thank you!!

It's a great kit, gives you everything you need....a little pricey, but not too bad.

[Road_Runner]

I've driven a few Hemi cars that I left the 11 inch drums on for originality reasons. Under about 80 MPH they will stop just fine in a panic situation once or even a few times. At higher speeds or multiple stops is where the disc brakes are so much better. You do have to make sure the adjustment is correct on them and have high quality lining for best results.

Sheldon

The kits that ANLAUTO posted the link to look like they are probably as good as it gets for drum brakes.  I've got to decide how fast I plan on driving the car and make sure my brakes are capable.  I've got most of the parts to put the larger 11" Mopar OEM discs from 73 & up which would look original enough, so I may still go that route.  Its good to know there's options though.

Later, Jim

[EB3-GranCoupe]

I just picked up some 11" rear backing plates ($30 for the pair) from a 1987 Dodge Truck.  I might give this a go on the next project! 

[ec_co]

I've installed two of these Stage III kits and the owners were quite happy with them. One was on a 1970 Hemi GTX the other a 1969 383 Super Bee. Both big heavy cars and both stopped very well

 http://www.musclecarbrakes.com/stage3.html

Alan - were those e-bodies? looking at their site they don't 'offer' an e-body kit, so wondering you used one of the other kits (cross compatible?)?

I'd rather upgrade to these for driving safety, but still keeping mostly (not upgrading to disk) original if possible.

[anlauto]

Alan - were those e-bodies? looking at their site they don't 'offer' an e-body kit, so wondering you used one of the other kits (cross compatible?)?

I'd rather upgrade to these for driving safety, but still keeping mostly (not upgrading to disk) original if possible.

Nope...both were B bodies one 1969 383 4spd Super Bee, the other a 1970 Hemi GTX.

I don't see why they wouldn't work on an E body

[ec_co]

I was thinking the same. should be the same shoe sizes for the pads themselves. if doing their 'kit', do you foresee any parts compatibility issues?

[OooohBarracuda]

Definitely a great way to upgrade the braking performance, while maintaining originality