U Joints

[EMCD]

I'd like to replace my u joint with more robust versions. What is a good recommendation?

[dodj]

What do you have in there now?

[jhaag]

"Performance" u joints typically just eliminate the grease zerk which in turn eliminates the lubrication passages in the u joint. By doing that they should theoretically be stronger. But then you can no longer lube the joints. Not a good idea on a street car. Other choice would be a physically larger joint. That means different yokes and driveshaft. From my experience any quality aftermarket joint should serve you well in most street and mild race applications.

[EMCD]

I'm guessing that I have the original factory joints from 1971. it's a standard 727 tranny with a 408 stroker with a bit of torque. I get a clunk at times shifting to reverse and don't want to jeopardize the car with a failed u joint at 80 mph on the highway. I like the pole-vault, but only in the Olympics.

[dodj]

You can change from the Mopar joints to 1350's but as stated, to do that you need to buy a new drive shaft and yoke to do it.

[Aracer]

Spicer solid small joints only fit the axle end. They won't fit the small yoke on the tranny end so there I use the standard Dana/Spicer. Other brands are phony using a harder rubber on the cups to give the illusion of H.D.
     Driveline Service told me that the Brute Strength auto store ones I had brought it in with gave him problems on the spin up to speed. He wore them out, but that balancing is perfect for a 3" factory shaft. If it is balanced it can stand the end play and spin smooth. On the street, it would have probably made noise on deceleration like a worn out joint on a hilly freeway.