Relays for head lights placement?

[Aracer]

Where do most people install the relays?
        I'm thinking on the upper drivers fender above the starter relay, The brown high beam 18g and the Violet * 18G run along the lower and can be spliced in there. (1968 cuda)

[burdar]

Having them on the inner fender will make them a little easier to get to if you ever have a problem.  That said, I'd rather have them hidden to minimize any extra wiring in the engine bay.(wiring is ugly)  On my 68 Dart, I'm putting them under the battery tray.  I'll also put a power distribution block under the tray so any extra accessories can tap in there...out of the way.  I bought a relay kit from "Crackedback".  His kit is plug and play.  You don't have to splice any wires.  I also plan to purchase one of his convertible top relay kits.

[Aracer]

I already have a Summit CD mounted where the wrench is in your pic. So it won't mater to me if it gets cluttered. I was thinking of the other side of the rad. support, but then dampness may cause a fault.
      Using 80 amp relays with a green led pilot. I have the 30 amp breaker above the start relay that is used for the 7 amp fan. I wonder if that  is enough?
       Red goes to breaker, black grounded, blue output to lamps, and yellow switched signal at the firewall side of the splices.  thanks

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I mounted mine tucked up near the hood latch. This go-around I will likely keep them within the dash area.

[crackedback]

I already have a Summit CD mounted where the wrench is in your pic. So it won't mater to me if it gets cluttered. I was thinking of the other side of the rad. support, but then dampness may cause a fault.
      Using 80 amp relays with a green led pilot. I have the 30 amp breaker above the start relay that is used for the 7 amp fan. I wonder if that  is enough?
       Red goes to breaker, black grounded, blue output to lamps, and yellow switched signal at the firewall side of the splices.  thanks

80 amp relays?   Do you have aircraft landing lights?     
From your description, you aren't using the best relays to run a headlight set up.

Don't use junk if you are going to build a kit yourself.   Chinese relays are junk IMO and I never use them.

Wire sizing is the next most important aspect.  It makes a big difference.

Good luck with it.

[Lbs]

Made a little shelf for mine up by the battery


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[Aracer]

80 amps won't over heat, no mater who made them. I have spares if they fail and can buy more at the Auto parts.  Also anything over one gauge more than the the lead on the relay's will work since it's only inches away. The only insecurity I have is the 30 amp breaker for fan and high beams. I have a spare. And I can fuse the fan in a minute if it fails
     Now, if I were to use Hella lamps I would rewire the whole head light circuit from the relays with the proper gauge and use ceramic light plugs. I'm currently using ordinary NOS GE pre-Halogen bulbs. Kind of fun to drive around home like it's 1968.
     1974 cuda will have relays next to the vin. plate exactly like the 68. It has Halogen modern glass bulbs and it's going to get new ceramic plugs tomorrow. Since I just reminded myself.    I'll post pictures when I finish one.

[crackedback]

I would not run the headlights and fan on the same breaker.  That's a bad situation waiting to happen.

Put your headlights on a dedicated/independent circuit.

[Aracer]

That's what I thought.  Do you think the 80 amp china relays consume extra current for the internal electro-magnet winding?

[crackedback]

The triggering current is minimal, less than .5 amps.

The number of amps flowing through 30 to 87 on relays determines the number of cycles they can be expected to last.  Run 12ga wire at a minimum to/from all the power circuits. 

I never use chinese relays.  IMO, garbage products and for a little more $ you can get a tyco/bosch relay.   A 40 amp relay is more than enough for a headlight system.  Run dedicated/redundant 30 amp power circuits to each relay, hi and low.
 

[Aracer]

Crackedback, I noticed the power brake check valve is stock. Do you know why there are two extra hose nips. Can one be use for a vacuum brake canister?

[Toothman]

Check out Mark Hamilton of M.A.D Enterprises at www.madelectrical.com for tech on relays(example: one for hi beam(s), one for low beam(s),one for fan),  Amp bypass and elimination(to save your mopar from fire!), trunk mounting your battery with a safer connection, to name but a few subjects. Check it out.  I have been installing a Vintage Air Surefit system in my 70 Challenger R/T (factory ac) and sourced the Hamilton article from my files;  read the catalog and tech, plan to order what is needed and perform the work before I reassemble and insert the entire dash as one unit.  Had to share.

[Aracer]

I ran a extra 10 g. wire from the alternator Positive through the firewall to the Amp meter. And an extra fuse-able link from the starter relay bypassing the fire wall. The C.D. ignition runs off the battery @ the S. relay along with the light circuit breaker, and the fuse for the fan. Now there is no need to bypass the Amp meter. Battery power is smoother for electronics and radio's.
     On my 1974, I ran an extra fuse-able link feed for a C.B. and amp. to separate the dash and alt. noise for cleaner reception. The battery is a huge tank for a kicker to feed from.

This is a second owner (me) city car from San Leandro, CA. so it has no sign of salt. But it obviously spent enough nights at the Raiders tailgate party's. 

[Katfish]

I put mine up by the radiator, can't see it behind the battery.

[djw383]

I made a bracket and put them where the center speak used to be in the dash...

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