The yoke can be removed with a steering wheel puller mounted on the u-joint saddles. It's my understanding that you could replace the seal without a full tear down, but the trick will be to avoid over-torquing the nut on the differential yoke when you put everything back together (this assumes you have a stock arrangement with a crush sleeve on the pinion vs. a solid sleeve like what's sold by Dr Diff). The diff yoke nut sets the preload on the pinion bearings. The preload is measured in inch-pounds, usually with a beam torque wrench. Rotating the nut 1/8th of a turn can cross you over from "ok" to "too much". I don't have my service manual with me right now, but the preload target was small - something like 10 inch pounds or less. If you overshoot on the preload, it's a one way trip with the crush sleeve (ask me how I know). With the Dr Diff "crush sleeve eliminator" in place, you can just back off the yoke nut until you get the right preload.
In the YouTube videos I've watched, there was a good recommendation for reassembly: put sealant on the yoke splines as well as the outside edge of the seal to prevent leaks.
Good luck on whatever you decide to do.
