1970 Cuda EK2 Build

[Cudakiller70]

That is so cool, man what a ride you have. great job! What braided hoses are you using and do you like em? Also rear discs and calipers?

[Cazbah362]

Thank you - These braided hoses are Summit brand with Summit AN fittings, lot cheaper and probably from a reputable company like Russel.  The rubber part is Russel.  For the brakes, used Cass at Dr. Diff - budget, nice and bolt on.

[Cudakiller70]

Thanks for the info    love the orange and good to hear your having fun with it. 

[67vertman]

Very nice!

as to your question "Only question I have now is what is a good AF Ratio for a 470?" I would shoot for 14:1 at idle. Thats what I am running on my 440.

[usraptr]

Very nicely done!   

[citron fella]

good looking cuda thanks for sharing


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[Cazbah362]

Citron - Thank you -

Found a buyer for the 470 sooner than anticipated, so this accelerated the removal of the B motor.  Since I had a little money, thought I would do the swap of the 5.7.  What I have learned is there are many little nuances with this swap, all of which are easy to over come, but definitely makes for an a little of a learning curve.

At this time, it is almost ready to fire, should be smoke and flames by the end of the weekend.  There are many learning points, the largest in my opinion are my transmission (GM TKO 600), headers (TTI 6.1's),  and the 2012 5.7 itself.

Transmission - well, what I have learned is the GM TKO takes more understanding than a Ford TKO.  Apparently Fords are the common swap types, with pilot bearings and bell housings a little more readily available.  In the end, I had to order a special bearing from Silver Sport Transmissions and a bell housing which will only use a 130 tooth flywheel.  Accomplished, but.... probably easier ways out there.  I used the clutch and pressure plate from my 470 and a RAM aluminum wheel.  I will post results later. 

TTI's are awesome - but TTI's and Gen III's, well be ready a slow going and tight installation process. Nearly all bolts I needed to install from underneath the car with 1/4 sockets and extensions.  Once I had headers on, I had to install the crank trigger sensor - really not fun.  This really was the longest part of the install.  Passenger side slide right in BTW, drivers side was generally easy.  Starter is not trapped like BB's and well - #6 plug, no worries now. 

As for the Gen III (2012), lighter, more sensors than old people have pills, and still learning acronyms like VVT, MDS,  variable intake sensors, and MAF vs MAP.  Well here is a picture of it installed.  Also, this is a CL purchase, so the  person I bought this from said "I swear this only had 60K and was perfect when pulled."  Will let you know when I fire it this weekend. 

       

[Cazbah362]

Worked through some of the small stuff such as tucking wiring up, installing an LS throttle cable, and various other items to get it fired.  Nice thing is it fired real fast - like nearly on the first crank.  Since I don't have a radiator, only ran it for a few seconds.  Sounds good, I have an issue with #2, I am thinking an injector is down.  Intake sat around for probably a year or so with fuel in it and fuel port not covered, so....  Also, AIT is not hooked up, apparently this is a deal in the EFI world.  Ordered a Spectre system from Ebay, so again awaiting parts. 

Cool thing is this has 70 pounds of oil pressure at idle and I hooked up to TunerStudio on my MacBook.
Getting a little burnt, so will be nice to take a break as I wait for parts, will keep the progress posted.

[Cudakiller70]

Very cool!
Following with interest. I thought I had decided to do a 440 because easier and cheaper, but really want to do one of these. Your making it look too easy. 

[E-body /6]

Casbah, been checking out your '70 Barracuda, EK2, no frills build. I see you chose the 440 to suit your needs, good choice. I really like the " Vitamin C" color on your Barracuda, my '70 Challenger also came K2, Go-mango from the factory. Just like the color, mine will most likely stay this color. SE trimmed outside and black SE trim inside w/ Rallye's at all 4 corners. Like it just the way it is.

[Cazbah362]

Cudakiller - thanks, easy is questionable, it is taking its toll on me, I am a little burnt right now.  As for cheaper, I would guess where you are starting from could make that difference.  If you have NOT purchased all your parts, I would say cost would be close, less computer, it is the expensive part.  But I see there are many options other than the Gold Box.  I must say Mike who sells the Gold Box has been awesome for tech support, so I would do the Gold Box again.  I have called him with random stupid questions and he has not hesitated one bit - AWESOME guy and product!  My fuel pump wiring was set up for "on switch" functionality, I could not figure out the on ground for the Gold Box.  Called Mike, he walked me through it and poof, fixed. 

/6 - Thanks, yes actually this car is a factory EK2 car as well, kind of cool.  And I am with you, no frills, let's get it done. I actually had a 470 (B motor stroker) which was a lot too wicked for normal street driving - but actually did it pretty darn well.  I can tell you, I was not going to sneak out at night or sneak in in the morning.  Wife actually told me I could not start it before 9am or after 9pm, 8pm work/school nights.  I changed mufflers from the Summit 2 chamber to Summit turbo's.  On the Hemi so far, the Turbo's actually sound nice.  She might let me out when the lights go down now?  and I agree - I too like them the way they are, post a picture of yours, or PM with it.  Sounds like my kind of car.   

Rack time -

[70chall440]

Great build, should be a fun ride for sure. In retrospect I kind of wish I had gone new gen for my Cuda.

[Cazbah362]

Thanks 70Chall440 - It has been a learning experience for me. 

The following is to help the next persons who do a similar build.  I had a very hard time finding credible information on the internet related to radiators, hoses and what worked. With that in mind, maybe this will help the next person.  Again, my build is with a Gen 3 LX motor (2012 Challenger), manual (Non-vvt), and I had a 26" brass factory big block radiator originally with a passenger side 1.5 upper and a driver side 1.75 inlet lower. 

To start changing things, I purchased installed a Champion CC375B radiator.  This appears to be the same size and dimensions as my 26" brass factory radiator, so my justification for doing it is - its lighter, modern and easily adapts dual fans.   When I purchased this, I talked with LedFoot racing asking for a "swap radiator," the CC375B is what they recommended.   With that said, I asked what hoses they used - response was - I don't know, go to a parts store, measure and check.  I called Champion, same general response.  I them called Bouchillon - well that response is a whole other story, and not pleasant nor helpful. 

So after going to a parts story many times, here is my solution:  The upper radiator hose I used was a Gate 22900 - I trimmed it about 6 inches and perfect fit.  Lower hose I used a combination of the old BB upper hose, old factory 5.7 hose attached to the motor, a 1.5 to 1.75 adapter\reducer, a piece of 1.5 aluminum radiator tubing.  I spliced them together using the 90 degree 1.75 portion of the upper hose from radiator to bend, then trimmed 5.7 hose back, spliced with pieces of aluminum and 1.5 adapter\reducer.  I get it this is a little "June Bugging," but it worked for me, only costing me the price of aluminum hose and adapter ($5, and $8 respectively).   

As a side note, I understand an SRT lower hose may work.  I went to dealer, but one was not available.  Down the road I may order and attempt to verify this to correct my "June Bug" approach.   

I do hope this helps someone else down the road.

V/r
CP   

[70chall440]

Thanks 70Chall440 - It has been a learning experience for me. 

The following is to help the next persons who do a similar build.  I had a very hard time finding credible information on the internet related to radiators, hoses and what worked. With that in mind, maybe this will help the next person.  Again, my build is with a Gen 3 LX motor (2012 Challenger), manual (Non-vvt), and I had a 26" brass factory big block radiator originally with a passenger side 1.5 upper and a driver side 1.75 inlet lower. 

To start changing things, I purchased installed a Champion CC375B radiator.  This appears to be the same size and dimensions as my 26" brass factory radiator, so my justification for doing it is - its lighter, modern and easily adapts dual fans.   When I purchased this, I talked with LedFoot racing asking for a "swap radiator," the CC375B is what they recommended.   With that said, I asked what hoses they used - response was - I don't know, go to a parts store, measure and check.  I called Champion, same general response.  I them called Bouchillon - well that response is a whole other story, and not pleasant nor helpful. 

So after going to a parts story many times, here is my solution:  The upper radiator hose I used was a Gate 22900 - I trimmed it about 6 inches and perfect fit.  Lower hose I used a combination of the old BB upper hose, old factory 5.7 hose attached to the motor, a 1.5 to 1.75 adapter\reducer, a piece of 1.5 aluminum radiator tubing.  I spliced them together using the 90 degree 1.75 portion of the upper hose from radiator to bend, then trimmed 5.7 hose back, spliced with pieces of aluminum and 1.5 adapter\reducer.  I get it this is a little "June Bugging," but it worked for me, only costing me the price of aluminum hose and adapter ($5, and $8 respectively).   

As a side note, I understand an SRT lower hose may work.  I went to dealer, but one was not available.  Down the road I may order and attempt to verify this to correct my "June Bug" approach.   

I do hope this helps someone else down the road.

V/r
CP

That's hotrodding at its finest!! Excellent!

[Cazbah362]

Finally nearly to the point where I can take her for a shake out run.  Exhaust is on, fluids are filled, and the thing idles at about 850rpm.  Right now I am awaiting LeFoot's shipment of 12" fans.  Once out on shake-out run, I can check and validate some concerns. 

First concern is the alternator.  To put a 2012 alternator in these, you need to use the pre-70's voltage regulators.  I have a 220 alternator, which concerns me a little.  I have done some wiring modes, like amp meter bypass, headlight relays, and minimization of other accessory areas. I have also thrown multiple body/frame/engine grounds to help out.  At the trunk mounted battery, it starts with about 13.8 and works it way up to about 14.2, this creep concerns me.   

With this exhaust (TTI 5.7 headers, 3" with X-pipe and Summit Turbo's), sounds like a modern car - subtle rumble at idle, roar at WOT (which comes quick, definitely need a rev-limiter), now the wife may hang out with me?

During shake-out, I will also do some tuning, seems really what shake-out will be.   The 6.1 tune worked well for start-up, but now I am noticing small things like idle, a little air stutter do to the 92mm, and to work on the fuel MAP better.  Also, the 6.1 did not have VVT, this motor does, so need a few passes to check, change and verify.  I am going to mix some 100 octane with 91 to bring up octane.

This is the plan as of now, here is a picture of the engine bay - Also need to do some cleaning, picture makes it look a little dirtier than really is in person - I will work on that. 

CP