Transmission repair cost???

[nsmall]

So I have a friend who recommended a transmission shop.  I feel like I got kind of screwed over and I was going to ask you guys your opinion. I live in California so costs are a little high but I don't live in a big city or anything. So for $400 the transmission shop adjusted my kickdown so it would shift later on not too early and they had to do a little cutting on the brace that attaches to the carb.

They also changed the oil pan for the transmission, switched out a seal at the end of the 727 transmission as it was leaking a little there, and then switched out the small felt gasket were the two bolts mount to the transmission and Brace to support it in the middle and it unfortunately is leaking still there.

Does $400 sound like a total rip-off? He said it took him awhile to figure out the kickdown but the transmission still leaks in the area I mentioned above and I'm just kind of frustrated about it and I'm not sure if I should call the guy out or what.

The Transmission is about to come out soon anyway as I'm about to paint the car so I figured if I can't fix the leak where  the two bolts go into the bracing I  can call the guy out on it then as I've already mentioned to him it's leaking...he doesn't seem interested in trying to fix it.

Thanks

[Cudakiller70]

No, to me it doesn't sound out of line for what they did.

[jimynick]

The going rate here in the Frozen North is about $80-100/hr plus supplies. You 'll have to determine how long it took to do the work. 

[Cudaragtop]

I always plan on $100 an hour labor for anyone else to work on my cars.
Shop rate plus fees plus 9.6% WA sales tax

[Katfish]

Price sounds about right, BUT, it shouldn't leak.
What's the point of paying for a repair that doesn't fix the problem.

[chargerdon]

I agree...$400 for about 5 hours worth of work and some parts, is quite reasonable.  However...

Regarding your leak...   WRONG...   The two bolts that attach to the transmission rear support do NOT go into the casing, but, rather thru two flanges outside on the case.   So, that is NOT a source of leak.   So, if they put some "felts" into the holes that is kinda ridiculous. 

What is possibly leaking is next to those bolts the "snap ring" cover plate.   If that is leaking, then you can:
1) support the transmission,
2)remove the rear crossmember
3) remove the cover plate and put in a new gasket...you can make the gasket yourself as its about 2 inches long and 3/4 inch wide with only the two holes in it.   

Probably take about 1 hour on a rack...  or jacked up high working from underneath.   

[1 Wild R/T]

Most of the time what looks like a leak at the rear bearing snap rig cover is actually the rear band anchor pin.....

[chargerdon]

"Most of the time what looks like a leak at the rear bearing snap rig cover is actually the rear band anchor pin....."

That's interesting...  my 904 rear band has two pins...  the pin that holds the band actuator...   Pulled it out to replace the "O" ring, but found my rod there doesn't take an "O" ring...not sure why that is as the examples I found on youtube show an "O" ring there.   

On the other hand the other rod that anchors the rear band DOES have an "O" ring which I replaced.  Both of those rods would be covered by the gasket between the case and the tail housing.  So, they shouldn't leak anyways. 

If that rod is leaking on his, then to replace you would have a lot more work...  would have to remove the tail section, and drop the pan and valve body to replace the O ring on the bottom anchor pin...   yuck...  if thats the case...let it leak!! 

[1 Wild R/T]

"Most of the time what looks like a leak at the rear bearing snap rig cover is actually the rear band anchor pin....."

That's interesting...  my 904 rear band has two pins...  the pin that holds the band actuator...   Pulled it out to replace the "O" ring, but found my rod there doesn't take an "O" ring...not sure why that is as the examples I found on youtube show an "O" ring there.   

On the other hand the other rod that anchors the rear band DOES have an "O" ring which I replaced.  Both of those rods would be covered by the gasket between the case and the tail housing.  So, they shouldn't leak anyways. 

If that rod is leaking on his, then to replace you would have a lot more work...  would have to remove the tail section, and drop the pan and valve body to replace the O ring on the bottom anchor pin...   yuck...  if thats the case...let it leak!!

There should be one pin for the rear band anchor, actuator & fulcrum... They all mount to the same shaft.... It should have an o ring groove..
The front band lever shaft doesn't have an o ring....

To seal a leak at the rear anchor typically you remove tailshaft housing, drain fluid down enough to stop leak, throughly clean area with brake clean, seal pin recess with RTV sealant,, allow to dry completely before refilling with fluid....