oh dear... dead in the water

[734406pk]

  Classic Mopar! Keep a spare in the glove box!    It always the simple things we overlook first.

    

[wantone]

OK - i'll buy a ballast resistor and try that first.   I'm going to assume it's that and just hope for the best.   Worst case I have a pare right?   

How would I test it?   I have a digital multimeter... You suppose just figure the closest ohms to the rating on the resistor and see if it registers when unplugged on both ends?

[1 Wild R/T]

Look for voltage at the + connection of the coil with the key in the run position.... Should be 9+ volts..

[73440]

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=115

Ballast resistor test

[wantone]

OK - I got 0 ohms on the ballast resistors (one on the wiper motor too) when disconnected.  THAT SAID - I am using a cheap meter so I decided to take a look at the blue wire from the ballast resistor while the brown was plugged in and got 8.8 volts.   So I may have set the meter up incorrectly checking the Ohms.   Why do I suck at this? ... Ah hahah.   i'm learning.

[Strawdawg]

Did you have 8.8 volts at the coil terminal as suggested above?  That should be close enuf to correct so that the car would run properly.

[wantone]

OK - I double checked my meter by hitting the battery and had 11.67 volts.   

I went to the coil and had 0.00 when connecting to the positive and negative terminals from the top and side.  Below is a diagram.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-85030.pdf

This is odd to me considering that the coil is new.   Does this mean the coil is bad?   Could that cause the car to not stay running when I stop cranking?   I get good combustion noise when cranking and the car dies as soon as I stop cranking...

[E-body /6]

Wantone, sounds like ballast resistor to me also. I had a starting prob like that at one time. Changed ballast at least I could get it started, from there a little more fine tuning and back on the road. By the way since you are in SoCal. like me have you ever been to the Sat. Morning cruise Cars and Coffee in Aliso Viego?

[Strawdawg]

Put one probe on the plus terminal on the coil
..  put the other probe on an engine ground or the battery negative post instead of the coil - teminal

[73440]

At 11.67 your battery is down about 7.4% from full at 12.6.
I had to wire my ballast resistor with jumpers to ecu to get it to run, Ill try to find the photo.



I think that photo is how I had to end up wiring mine to run.

[wantone]

Thanks everybody - I have a new ballast resistor on order.   Let's hope that will do the trick.

[HP_Cuda]

The ballast should provide 12V at start and 9V at run condition to allow the coil to live longer.

Ballast is the easiest to fix so hopefully it's that but while you are at it check your ohm readings on your coil.

[wantone]

In hopes of eliminating variables - I am removing my carb as i'm sure it's injured- I bought a Quick Fuel-750-SS and a new ballast resistor.   I'll get both swapped in next week.   

Does anybody thing I should yank my plugs to make sure that they're not under fluid or do you think that I can leave the carb off and have things kind of dry out naturally?

[73440]

Sometimes the thing to do is replace one thing at a time to see its effect, maybe start with replacing the BR as its simple, try to start then upgrade to the new quick fuel.

[wantone]

I'll do that for sure!  I get the BR in the mail tomorrow and the new carb next mon/tues.    I ordered the QF given the 3310 runs super rich and I am having trouble dialing in the air fuel ratio.   I really am trying to avoid installing a gauge but I keep feeling compelled to do so.