Rear end rebuild

[dodj]

I have a 489 case,  used up cone type diff.
Think I need these parts
1/ https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/yga-24238/overview/
2/ http://www.jegs.com/i/Detroit-TrueTrac/363/913A572/10002/-1
3/ http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/61281/10002/-1

Is this all I need?
Is there anything wrong with this list?
First try at building my own rear, so thought I would bounce it off you guys.

[lulurocks]

Congrats for taking this on ...

The carrier bearings in the kit wont fit your new posi . . You. Will need to get bearings and races specified by posi manufacture

I would get  a crush sleeve eliminator , it makes it easier for a novice to get the preload right.     http://www.doctordiff.com/8-3-4-489-case-crush-sleeve-eliminator.html

You need something to hold the yoke when you put it together. Make or buy

You need the tools to set the carrier preload and lash , make or buy

You need a dial indicator with mag base. Holder to set the lash

I would buy 2 complete sets of bearings ,  one set for you to make a set of setup bearings out of , so you can mock all of your shims and backlash, then the final set that you get pressed on .  So then you know you shims are good and you wont have an issue with final assembly ...
This guy shows you how make slip on Setup bearings

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Rxm9faJWHzQ

[crash340]

Standard 489 carrier bearings fit the Eaton TruTrac.
Personally I love how the TruTrac works, I've had two and will never have another, I have now gone to the Strange STrac in a D60. The side gears in the TruTrac are not well supported in the carrier housing and your axles will rattle like made and annoy you, search posts for noisy TruTrac. Sad but try, I really like the concept and how it felt through corners etc, just couldn't handle the rattle

[dodj]

Standard 489 carrier bearings fit the Eaton TruTrac.
The side gears in the TruTrac are not well supported in the carrier housing and your axles will rattle like made and annoy you, search posts for noisy TruTrac. Sad but try,

I will try...

[brads70]

Standard 489 carrier bearings fit the Eaton TruTrac.
Personally I love how the TruTrac works, I've had two and will never have another, I have now gone to the Strange STrac in a D60. The side gears in the TruTrac are not well supported in the carrier housing and your axles will rattle like made and annoy you, search posts for noisy TruTrac. Sad but try, I really like the concept and how it felt through corners etc, just couldn't handle the rattle

I was going to caution you on the trutrac for 8 3/4 rear ends . I have one in my Dana 60 and love it, no issues. 

[rUNCHARGER]

No need for setup bearings on an 8 3/4 they have side adjusters. The crush sleeve delete is a good plan. You need a dial indicator and small and large torque wrench. You might be able to hold the yoke carefully with a pipe wrench and a cheater bar.

Sheldon

[dodj]

I was going to caution you on the trutrac for 8 3/4 rear ends . I have one in my Dana 60 and love it, no issues.

I know a guy with a 71 RR and he has no issues with an 8 3/4. I know a guy with a jeep (don't know the rear end) and it 'clicks' a bit. Might be an actual locker though.
Everyone I talk to around here seems to think they are the best. As people were telling me about the trutrack and how awesome they are, Crash340's thread was always in the back of my mind....
Crush sleeve eliminator added to list
going to fabricate something for holding the yoke.
Should I switch the d-shaft and yoke over to 1350? or stock 7290 good enough?

[brads70]

I know a guy with a 71 RR and he has no issues with an 8 3/4. I know a guy with a jeep (don't know the rear end) and it 'clicks' a bit. Might be an actual locker though.
Everyone I talk to around here seems to think they are the best. As people were telling me about the trutrack and how awesome they are, Crash340's thread was always in the back of my mind....
Crush sleeve eliminator added to list
going to fabricate something for holding the yoke.
Should I switch the d-shaft and yoke over to 1350? or stock 7290 good enough?

I would say the stock size should be good enough? Even if you upgrade the rear u joint to a bigger size the front is still the smaller size?

[Rdchallenger12]

May I suggest using this rebuild kit instead? It specifically says it fits True Trac.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Richmond-Gear/836/83-1031-1/10002/-1

[dodj]

May I suggest using this rebuild kit instead? It specifically says it fits True Trac.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Richmond-Gear/836/83-1031-1/10002/-1

I saw that Rd, but it says pinion spline count-10. Now I don't know what pinion spline count has to do with the install kit, but I figured they wouldn't specify if it didn't matter? I don't know, does it matter?

I would say the stock size should be good enough? Even if you upgrade the rear u joint to a bigger size the front is still the smaller size?

I'm going to replace the d-shaft too. So I thought I would make sure now that the 7290's are good enough.

[Rdchallenger12]

I saw that Rd, but it says pinion spline count-10. Now I don't know what pinion spline count has to do with the install kit, but I figured they wouldn't specify if it didn't matter? I don't know, does it matter?
I'm going to replace the d-shaft too. So I thought I would make sure now that the 7290's are good enough.

Good eye! Glad I didn't pull the trigger on buying one today lol

[dodj]

May I suggest using this rebuild kit instead? It specifically says it fits True Trac.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Richmond-Gear/836/83-1031-1/10002/-1

After a little research, I think the only difference is the pinion nut. 

[Cazbah362]

Yes, the only difference is the pinion nut - Dodj, I have a set of 3:23's with 2790 yoke for a 489 - 10 spline.  I went with 4:10's from Doctor Diff.  Also, if you are not going with green bearings, I also have an axle bearing/seal kit (Yukon side adjusters and seals, Fram axle seals, and Richmond bearings).  I would let all this go for $250 shipped to your door.  I may also have a pinion seal I would throw in (no guarantee's).  This would pretty much do it other than the cleaning and set-up. 

If you go with an Crush Sleeve eliminator, it is easy to do without any special tools.  Either a vice or a friend and you will have it.  Only other tool you would need is the side-load tool and a press (maybe some heat).  Cut off the old bearing retainers on the axles before you try and press off old bearings.  Bearings on the True-Track are pretty simple, just do them straight (flat surface). 

Enjoy - and let me know on the items - gears are used good condition, bearings are brand new in wrapper. 

Also - not sure on the yoke you have on your drive line, if you have the small one you can purchase the conversion u-joint from Napa (240-0369) or 239353 bar code 83286 00369 9 for the larger 2790.  I put a 1350 on mine, but I had to build a drive line anyways, and I wanted U bolts for my caps, not strapps.

CP

[dodj]

Yes, the only difference is the pinion nut - Dodj, I have a set of 3:23's with 2790 yoke for a 489 - 10 spline.  I went with 4:10's from Doctor Diff.  Also, if you are not going with green bearings, I also have an axle bearing/seal kit (Yukon side adjusters and seals, Fram axle seals, and Richmond bearings).  I would let all this go for $250 shipped to your door.  I may also have a pinion seal I would throw in (no guarantee's).  This would pretty much do it other than the cleaning and set-up. 

If you go with an Crush Sleeve eliminator, it is easy to do without any special tools.  Either a vice or a friend and you will have it.  Only other tool you would need is the side-load tool and a press (maybe some heat).  Cut off the old bearing retainers on the axles before you try and press off old bearings.  Bearings on the True-Track are pretty simple, just do them straight (flat surface). 

Enjoy - and let me know on the items - gears are used good condition, bearings are brand new in wrapper. 

Also - not sure on the yoke you have on your drive line, if you have the small one you can purchase the conversion u-joint from Napa (240-0369) or 239353 bar code 83286 00369 9 for the larger 2790.  I put a 1350 on mine, but I had to build a drive line anyways, and I wanted U bolts for my caps, not strapps.

CP

I appreciate the offer cp, but I ordered up the truetrac, gears and install kit from summit last night. $980.

[Rdchallenger12]

After a little research, I think the only difference is the pinion nut. 

So which one did you end up going with? And did you just buy a separate pinion nut?