Windage Trays - Lets talk

[Cazbah362]

What windage trays do you use?  Has anyone ever use one of these?  http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/502001/10002/-1

[HP2]

Almost standard windage tray, good to 4.15" stroke. They definetely are a good things to have.

[mopar jack]

I used one when they first came out and thought it would be the perfect pan gasket and was reusable. Only one gasket needed and a windage tray too. Unfortunately I installed it like an original gasket and used a little sealer at the rear main block parting line that was always recommended. The seal worked great but I had a rear main issue. So I had to  pull the pan to replace the seal and while removing the pan the sealer bonded with the gasket and caused it to tear and ruined it. I called Jegs and of course it was my fault for using sealer though nothing in the instructions mentioned it.

[Cazbah362]

Thank you guys - So do you use sealer or do you not?  What would be your recommendations?

[1 Wild R/T]

I used no sealer, the gasket seals fine without it & since using sealer apparently can damage the gasket why chance it?

[Oldschool]

I do just the opposite. I never use a pan gasket (on BB/Hemi), just rtv. Small block a gasket is a must....

[1 Wild R/T]

I do just the opposite. I never use a pan gasket (on BB/Hemi), just rtv. Small block a gasket is a must....

But his post is about the new design windage trays sold by Jegs & Summit that have a gasket made into the flange that sandwiches between the block & the pan.....

If you haven't seen these yet you should;ld take a look, they work very well....  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2340/overview/model/300

[Oldschool]

But his post is about the new design windage trays sold by Jegs & Summit that have a gasket made into the flange that sandwiches between the block & the pan.....

If you haven't seen these yet you should;ld take a look, they work very well....  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2340/overview/model/300

Might be the way to go if it works as advertised....  Too small for my application - 4.50" stroke....

[1 Wild R/T]

Might be the way to go if it works as advertised....  Too small for my application - 4.50" stroke....

You need to shorten your stroke...   

[Oldschool]

You need to shorten your stroke...   

I'm gonna just let that one alone....            

[Cazbah362]

Now that is funny!  Good humor and thanks.  I think the Jegs and Summit brand are identical.  I have put in an order for the Summit version (I live local so can pick it up, always a decision shipping vs taxes).  When I go to replace it, I will not use sealer.  So next question is how hard is it ot replace the pan gasket while still in the car?  Looks like maybe lift engine up and remove pan bolts.  Almost looks almost enough room to not lift it up?  (70 Cuda 470/400 block, factory K and Quicktime Bell)

[1 Wild R/T]

Unbolt the fan shroud, unbolt engine mounts, use a floor jack with a wood block on the oil pan to raise engine, I wedge sockets between the mounts & the K member & remove the jack ... Drop the steering center link....

[Cazbah362]

Thank you very much!

[1 Wild R/T]

The other option is leave the motor mounts bolted up & drop the transmission....It's more work but by going that way you have better access should you choose to do the rear main seal.... You still drop the steering linkage since it traps the pan, but you can just unbolt the idler arm & it'll give you enough clearance to slide the pan out....  By dropping the transmission you have access so you can fill the cavities on either side of the rear seal retainer with "The Right Stuff" sealant.... 

BTW after posting in your other thread I happened to see this post over on that "other" forum...

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/2256342/gonew/1/rebuilt-383-leaking-bad-at-rear-main-or-galley-plug.html#UNREAD

[Cazbah362]

Good information on the seal, looks like they took your advice.  As for dropping the transmission, well with a Quicktme setup it would be a chore, lots of bots.  So I will roll the dice and not plan on replacing the rear seal at this time. I do believe the 440 Source windage tray is partial culprit in this issue, not really the rear seal.  That was a Mancini billet version, I have had good luck with them in the past.