440 Engine Specs

[70cudaFun]

Hi all,

I'm trying to find out additional information on my 440 motor and could use a little help.  So after looking at areas of the block, I see the following:

Area by Distributor Cap: J440 6 19 E
In doing some searching online, I found this motor to be a 1973 440 with a cast crank.

I also see these numbers right below the heads on the side of the block:
6.16.73
3698830.440.6

So here is what I'm trying to figure out and confirm.  According to this link (http://www.mymopar.com/enginespecs.htm), the 1973 440 motor came in two different HP ratings.  220hp & 275hp.  How do I know which one I have?  Also, due to a lower horsepower rating, is it safe to assume this block was out of a truck, RV or something other than a e-body?  It seems to be an RB block which I have heard are sturdy but I thought stock 440's made at least 375hp.  Guess I was wrong according to the info I have reviewed since it looks like only 70 & 71 E-body 440's had the higher HP rating.

Any help or clarification would be much appreciated.

Thank you.

[sprecks]

One thing for sure is it isn't an E-body 440.  No big blocks were factory installed after 1971. All 72 through 74 E-bodies were small block or slant six.

[cudabob496]

http://stockmopar.com/mopar-engine-casting-numbers.html

[70cudaFun]

One thing for sure is it isn't an E-body 440.  No big blocks were factory installed after 1971. All 72 through 74 E-bodies were small block or slant six.

Correct.  My car is a 70 Barracuda and it has a 440 in it now (originally a 318 car).  I was just trying to find out if the current motor I have is one of the solid E-body 440's which came with a higher HP rating or a version that came in trucks and RV's.  It sounds like the latter which makes me wonder if building one of these will give me a good bang for the buck since it will take 7K+ in parts to get it in the 500hp range regardless.  I guess I'm trying to find out if all 440 blocks are alike and will perform the same if you load up all the good parts in them (Pistons, Crank, Cam, Heads, etc).

Another option I was considering is just doing a rebuild back to stock but if my motor is rated in the mid 200hp range, no way am I going that route, lol.

Thanks.

[70cudaFun]

http://stockmopar.com/mopar-engine-casting-numbers.html

Helpful resource, I found this website earlier as well.  It kind of gave me the information I already knew.  Much appreciated either way.

[69bcuda]

Maybe a clue. Some specs in an old manual indicate a higher valve spring rate on a '73 HP 440 compared to the standard. Compression is the same on both.

Some more info on blocks here. Note the discussion for the "HP" on the stamp pad ...............
http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm

[69bcuda]

BTW, don't sell that engine short....................
 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dyno-testing-a-stock-1972-440.249866/

[734406pk]

Maybe a clue. Some specs in an old manual indicate a higher valve spring rate on a '73 HP 440 compared to the standard. Compression is the same on both.

Some more info on blocks here. Note the discussion for the "HP" on the stamp pad ...............
http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm

  A quick search of the service manuals show 2 different hp for a 73 440. A) 440 4bbl 220 hp@3600 rpm VIN code "T"and B) 440 4 bbl 275 hp @ 4800 rpm VIN code "U". The blocks appear to be the same casting numbers between the two but the camshaft/valve springs etc are different. If you have a cast crank I suspect you have the 220 hp. Consider a 505-512 stroker kit and stealth heads from 440 source to get the horsepower you need.

[sprecks]

Correct.  My car is a 70 Barracuda and it has a 440 in it now (originally a 318 car).  I was just trying to find out if the current motor I have is one of the solid E-body 440's which came with a higher HP rating or a version that came in trucks and RV's.  It sounds like the latter which makes me wonder if building one of these will give me a good bang for the buck since it will take 7K+ in parts to get it in the 500hp range regardless.  I guess I'm trying to find out if all 440 blocks are alike and will perform the same if you load up all the good parts in them (Pistons, Crank, Cam, Heads, etc).

Another option I was considering is just doing a rebuild back to stock but if my motor is rated in the mid 200hp range, no way am I going that route, lol.

Thanks.

If it was mine, I wouldn't hesitate building it up to 500 HP.  The lower horsepower of the 73 engine doesn't have as much to do with the block as it has to do with the parts within it.  The general rule of thumb is the stock RB block with the right guts is good for up to 600 HP.  At 600 HP or more it is only a matter of time before the main web breaks.  That is why people building higher HP engines typically use the  the 400 block.  The crankshaft main  webbing is stronger on a "B" block engine.

[70cudaFun]

BTW, don't sell that engine short....................
 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dyno-testing-a-stock-1972-440.249866/

Very cool read.  Thanks.  I'm feeling better about this block now after reading what they used for that test.

[70cudaFun]

If it was mine, I wouldn't hesitate building it up to 500 HP.  The lower horsepower of the 73 engine doesn't have as much to do with the block as it has to do with the parts within it.  The general rule of thumb is the stock RB block with the right guts is good for up to 600 HP.  At 600 HP or more it is only a matter of time before the main web breaks.  That is why people building higher HP engines typically use the  the 400 block.  The crankshaft main  webbing is stronger on a "B" block engine.

Thats's the response I was looking for.  Thank you.

[70cudaFun]

A quick search of the service manuals show 2 different hp for a 73 440. A) 440 4bbl 220 hp@3600 rpm VIN code "T"and B) 440 4 bbl 275 hp @ 4800 rpm VIN code "U". The blocks appear to be the same casting numbers between the two but the camshaft/valve springs etc are different. If you have a cast crank I suspect you have the 220 hp. Consider a 505-512 stroker kit and stealth heads from 440 source to get the horsepower you need.

Yup, thank you.  The 505 or 512 are definitely the way to go.  The build prices (just the parts itself) really climb up there though when you go with Hydraulic Roller cams, lifters, roller rockers, heads, etc. I have found some local machine shops to quote me on just building a motor with the parts I provide and I have been quoted anywhere from 2k to 3.5k.  That's for just hot tanking/acid wash the motor and assembly.  Its just interesting how much is really involved with a 505 or 512 build.  Another interesting fact is NONE of the machine shops I reached out to guarantee their work.  In fact, one builder told me that if the motor runs for 5 minutes after he builds it, anything that happens after that 5 minute mark is user error. 

I had another machine shop tell me they will do a 12 month guarantee if he only rebuilds the motor to stock specifications.

[73cudabr]

Yup, thank you.  The 505 or 512 are definitely the way to go.  The build prices (just the parts itself) really climb up there though when you go with Hydraulic Roller cams, lifters, roller rockers, heads, etc. I have found some local machine shops to quote me on just building a motor with the parts I provide and I have been quoted anywhere from 2k to 3.5k.  That's for just hot tanking/acid wash the motor and assembly.  Its just interesting how much is really involved with a 505 or 512 build.  Another interesting fact is NONE of the machine shops I reached out to guarantee their work.  In fact, one builder told me that if the motor runs for 5 minutes after he builds it, anything that happens after that 5 minute mark is user error. 

I had another machine shop tell me they will do a 12 month guarantee if he only rebuilds the motor to stock specifications.

Don't blame them for not putting a warranty on the engine. Most small shops are not rolling in cash. Tough to control what happens to that engine once you take it from there and install it. If it gets over-revved, over heated, your kid drops a washer in the carburetor while you're installing it, many things can grenade it out of their control. Not sure if they can purchase insurance to help cover losses or create warranties? But I'd imagine it would be pricey.

I'm having a stroker built now. I originally thought of doing it myself, but there for sure won't be a warranty when I mess up ring gap, main bearing, cam timing etc. At least with a reputable shop, if it breaks down and there is no evidence that you abused it, you stand the chance of them at helping out or risking their reputation. Good luck - as those with completed 496/505/512's will tell you, it's well worth it. I hope to have some testimony to that real soon. Keep us posted. 

[70cudaFun]

Don't blame them for not putting a warranty on the engine. Most small shops are not rolling in cash. Tough to control what happens to that engine once you take it from there and install it. If it gets over-revved, over heated, your kid drops a washer in the carburetor while you're installing it, many things can grenade it out of their control. Not sure if they can purchase insurance to help cover losses or create warranties? But I'd imagine it would be pricey.

I'm having a stroker built now. I originally thought of doing it myself, but there for sure won't be a warranty when I mess up ring gap, main bearing, cam timing etc. At least with a reputable shop, if it breaks down and there is no evidence that you abused it, you stand the chance of them at helping out or risking their reputation. Good luck - as those with completed 496/505/512's will tell you, it's well worth it. I hope to have some testimony to that real soon. Keep us posted.

I hear you.  I'm not so worried about a warranty per se.  I feel like warranty for a motor can be a black box.  There would be a number of ways for the warrantor to get out of paying any forms of claims should an engine have issues.  I will keep you guys posted on which route I go.  The stroker option seems like the right choice so far.  Did you end up going with the 496, 505 or 512?  I bet you're excited!

[73cudabr]

I hear you.  I'm not so worried about a warranty per se.  I feel like warranty for a motor can be a black box.  There would be a number of ways for the warrantor to get out of paying any forms of claims should an engine have issues.  I will keep you guys posted on which route I go.  The stroker option seems like the right choice so far.  Did you end up going with the 496, 505 or 512?  I bet you're excited!

I went with the 505 build mainly to retain some iron on the block. Like chess moves there is literally thousands of combinations you can choose from with building an engine. Mine is close to being buttoned up. I have Performer heads being CNCed as we speak and trying to locate a victor intake as my dual plane shouldn't be needed with the grunt the stroker will make. Guess I can put them both on the dyno and see which one she likes. When you're ready, get a thread going, these guys are always happy to give advice and help you out. Until then, start squirreling your money away for the big day. Once you start, you usually spend way more than what you wanted to. After all, it's not everyday you get to build your dream engine.