Author Topic: Overcharging  (Read 5282 times)

Offline RCCDrew

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #15 on: April 23, 2017 - 07:53:27 PM »
Got the alternator back in and it works great so far. The aftermarket regulator seems to work more steadily on the voltmeter, especially at low rpm. Thanks again for all the help!




Offline 734406pk

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #16 on: April 25, 2017 - 08:24:09 PM »
 :2thumbs: Great upgrade! Enjoy!!
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline shadango

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #17 on: May 08, 2017 - 12:31:23 PM »
I'm having an overcharging issue as well....15.6-15.7 ish....14.8 at the current blue wire.

So with this piggyback setup, you can remove the stock VMR, and tape up the wires to it and the two field wires in the original harness as well?

Will the choke and ballast still get the proper feed from the other blue wire connections they share?

I like that it takes load off the ignition circuit.  I just did the headlight relay install that crackedback offers for the same reason..lesson the load on the firewall connections etc.

"and blue gets connected (ring terminal or solder) to the stator output before the diodes inside the alternator" -- does this mean the alternator case has to come apart?
« Last Edit: May 08, 2017 - 12:56:32 PM by shadango »

Offline RCCDrew

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #18 on: May 08, 2017 - 02:09:25 PM »
Yes the case comes apart, but it's not hard. The hardest part is getting the brushes in and out, but pretty easy. I used a ring terminal. You have to drill an small hole in the case to mount the regulator. I haven't taken my old regulator off, but should work with it unplugged. My ballast is bypassed , but everything is working normally.

Offline shadango

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #19 on: May 08, 2017 - 02:20:18 PM »
Yes the case comes apart, but it's not hard. The hardest part is getting the brushes in and out, but pretty easy. I used a ring terminal. You have to drill an small hole in the case to mount the regulator. I haven't taken my old regulator off, but should work with it unplugged. My ballast is bypassed , but everything is working normally.

I have never had an alternator apart or taken brushes out...have always avoided it...LOL

I have been running with the higher voltage for years but would like to get it in check.....just dont want to screw up a perfectly working alternator...... :22yikes:

Offline RCCDrew

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #20 on: May 08, 2017 - 02:24:06 PM »
Me either, but it was easy. Just take out the brushes first, they are where the terminals plug to on the alternator. Then remove the long case bolts. You can grease your rear bearing while you're there.

Offline shadango

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #21 on: May 08, 2017 - 07:13:02 PM »
Me either, but it was easy. Just take out the brushes first, they are where the terminals plug to on the alternator. Then remove the long case bolts. You can grease your rear bearing while you're there.

Am I wrong for feeling like "for $40 I can install this puppy and be DONE with my overcharging issue".....?

I mean, there must be SOMETHING not quite right somewhere for it to be an issue....is using this just a band aid or is it a legit fix to the issue?


Offline RCCDrew

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #22 on: May 09, 2017 - 10:18:30 AM »
It worked for me. Yeah there's still a problem... if I go back to the old style regulator. My voltage is staying more steady than it has ever been.

Offline shadango

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #23 on: May 09, 2017 - 11:35:28 AM »
It worked for me. Yeah there's still a problem... if I go back to the old style regulator. My voltage is staying more steady than it has ever been.

Do you still have a swing between low and high voltmeter readings when in drive at idle versus gassing it?

Offline RCCDrew

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #24 on: May 10, 2017 - 12:04:54 PM »
Not anymore. I still see the voltmeter change with load changes like turn signals operating or AC on but more steady at low rpm.

Offline 734406pk

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #25 on: May 10, 2017 - 09:23:53 PM »
Am I wrong for feeling like "for $40 I can install this puppy and be DONE with my overcharging issue".....?

I mean, there must be SOMETHING not quite right somewhere for it to be an issue....is using this just a band aid or is it a legit fix to the issue?

Go for it! You will be happy you did! :2thumbs:
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline shadango

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #26 on: May 11, 2017 - 05:59:20 AM »
Go for it! You will be happy you did! :2thumbs:


I had the order form all filled out and was about to hit send....reviewing the order....

Then realized -- I dont have a "squareback" style alternator.  Its a "powermaster" unit that I bought new at Carlisle a couple years back.....

Would this still work the same way??




Offline xtopfuel

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #27 on: May 11, 2017 - 06:01:20 AM »
when I went to get alternator for my 72 340 found that every single one we opened was a square back that started in 73 according to local rebuilder, since mine was the original from 72 we rebuilt

Offline shadango

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #28 on: May 11, 2017 - 12:15:08 PM »
when I went to get alternator for my 72 340 found that every single one we opened was a square back that started in 73 according to local rebuilder, since mine was the original from 72 we rebuilt

Are you suggesting that mine may be a squaureback internally but not externally?

Going by pictures on the powermaster website, it is the "roundback style"
« Last Edit: May 11, 2017 - 12:17:59 PM by shadango »

Offline 734406pk

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Re: Overcharging
« Reply #29 on: May 11, 2017 - 02:06:59 PM »
Quote:
Are you suggesting that mine may be a squaureback internally but not externally?

Going by pictures on the powermaster website, it is the "roundback style"
[/quote]

Does your alternator look like this on the back (with two field terminals)?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-7018?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-powermaster&gclid=CjwKEAjwl9DIBRCG_e3DwsKsizsSJADMmJ118k7jqMSUjJuxeIY87stV2HOGydmtDfP2BmRsaOp0mBoCmh7w_wcB
« Last Edit: May 11, 2017 - 09:54:07 PM by 734406pk »
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive