Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm

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    Author Topic: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm  (Read 6054 times)

    Offline SlyGuy

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    Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « on: October 27, 2018 - 02:13:36 PM »
    Hey guy's,
    It's starting to get cool, wet, and dreary here in central Ohio. Time to get back in the garage! The final "original" parts that are still on my 72 Challenger are the torsion bars, lower control arms, and the links that go from the control arms up to the front of the K-member. I assume that these all need to come off to, at least, replace some bushings (I think)?

    Please correct me if I'm wrong, and these parts don't have to come out. If they do need to come out, what is the procedure or proper order of doing things? The car is stripped down, and on jack stands. However, I don't fully understand how torsion bars work, and I don't want to hurt myself  :eek4:
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    Offline 70chall440

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #1 on: October 27, 2018 - 09:44:13 PM »
    If you are doing a complete rebuild, then yes you should remove them and put new bushings in them. You might want to replace the T bars depending on their condition and what you are going to for a drive train.
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    Offline jhaag

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #2 on: October 28, 2018 - 04:58:10 PM »
    Sly, to answer your question/concern. With the car supported on jack stands and the front suspension hanging, first I would loosen the lower ball joint nut 1 or 2 turns. At this point if you smack the spindle where the ball joint goes through, the ball joint should loosen from the spindle. Do not remove the nut yet. Next loosen the torsion bar adjusting bolts. These are the ones in the center of the lower control arms. This will take the tension (or most of it) off of the torsion bars. Torsion bars are simply springs that use the twisting motion of the bars as a spring. At this point all or most tension should be removed. If you need more downward suspension movement you can remove the upper control arm bump stops. The bars may be difficult to slide out if they have been in there forever. There is a tool for removal. If you are going to junk them you can use whatever means to remove. If you plan to reuse you need to be sure not to nick or mar them up. Once the torsion bars are out you can remove the lower control arms and strut rods together and reassemble in reverse order. Once the tension is off the bars you will feel much safer. Hope this helps and be careful.
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    Offline jimynick

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #3 on: October 28, 2018 - 06:41:40 PM »
    Good advice that. The torsion bars come out the back and there's a circlip in the rear bar housing that you'll need to remove. Easy peasy with a pair of needle-nose pliers. there's also a rubber boot in front of the torsion bar housing that you can just slide forward and eventually off as well. Clean any old and hard grease out of the rear of the housing as well. The advice to remove the bump cushions is good as there should be NO tension on the bars. The bars are tougher than you might think and a pair of 10" curved jaw vice grips can be put on the bar ahead of the rear housing to drive on with a BFH. If they're really stuck. you'll have to come up with something to clamp on the bars to drive them out the rear. Usually, once you've got them to move, you can weasel them out. Good luck   :cheers:
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    Offline 70chall440

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #4 on: October 28, 2018 - 11:31:21 PM »
    To add to this, if you intend to reuse the bars, don't use vice grips on them and mar them up. You can get them out by either using the tool designed for that, make one yourself or if you completely remove the adjusters you can get a punch up there and drive the bar rearward (the direction it needs to go).
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    Current Mopar
    70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
    05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
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    Offline SlyGuy

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #5 on: October 29, 2018 - 11:41:55 AM »
    Thanks All!
    It was the torsion adjusting bolt on the underside of the control arm that I "was" clueless on. Also the retaining clips at the rear of the bars (glad ya"ll mentioned them as well). Once I understood those, it was easy going. All of the other suspension and steering components were already off which made the process very simple. I took the "front" nut off of the link that goes from the control arm to the K-member, took off the control arm retaining nut, and took a pry bar between the control arm and k-member and slid everything back a couple inches. Not sure if I got lucky, but this movement made it easy to separate the torsion bar from the control arm. Everything is off now. Thanks again!!!   
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    Offline 70chall440

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #6 on: October 29, 2018 - 01:36:12 PM »
    Excellent, glad you got it apart.
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    Current Mopar
    70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
    05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
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    Offline jhaag

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #7 on: October 29, 2018 - 09:56:58 PM »
     :thumbsup:
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    Offline dodj

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #8 on: December 17, 2018 - 07:42:43 PM »
    Quote from: 70chall440 on October 27, 2018 - 09:44:13 PM
    You might want to replace the T bars depending on their condition and what you are going to for a drive train.
    I second this. No matter what drive drain you go with, fatter torsion bars will make a dramatic improvement in your car's handling.
    You have it apart now, best time to make the change.
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    Scott
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    Offline SlyGuy

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #9 on: December 19, 2018 - 07:32:04 AM »
    Thanks for the input! When we turn our attention to suspension, I will definitely keep that in mind. Didn't even know you could buy "thicker" bars :clueless: Haven't looked into it yet, so don't know what all options and upgrades are available. Although like everything else, I'm sure it just depends on how much money I can scrape up.
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    Offline Beekeeper

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #10 on: December 19, 2018 - 09:56:55 AM »
    Not to hijack the thread but do these bars get weaker over time? I have a set of bars from a 383 car and I was holding onto them in case I ever have a small block car. Will I see an improvement here or will they be weakened to the point that it’s like having new 340 bars?
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    Offline 70chall440

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #11 on: December 19, 2018 - 10:45:45 AM »
    Technically yes they do or can get weaker over time with use. That said, many people have used older T bars in cars for years. Personally, I think I would opt for new T bars if doing a full build only for the peace of mind.
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    Current Mopar
    70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
    05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
    Past Mopars
    9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

    Offline SlyGuy

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #12 on: November 19, 2019 - 03:41:29 PM »
    Hello all! We are finally ready to re-install front suspension. I did purchase thicker torsion bars to put back in, so thanks for the heads up on doing that. I do have another question regarding the lower control arms. Specifically the end of the LCA that has the torsion bar socket/lever. I am in the process of cleaning them up, and I notice that the torsion bar socket/lever assembly on one LCA spins loosely while the other feels much more firm and hard to spin. After I finish cleaning/blasting, should those assemblies move loosely, or should they be firm? I have seen mention of "stiffener plates", but how do you know if you need them? Sorry if this is all beginner stuff, but hey, I'm a beginner.  :clueless:
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    Offline 70chall440

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #13 on: November 20, 2019 - 12:11:09 PM »
    Due to the way those are made and their age some of them will be very loose, it isn't necessarily a bad thing. In a perfect world you would want them relatively the same and tight, but this isn't a perfect world and so long as they are not "sloppy" you will be fine. As to the stiffener plates, they are really for handling because the LCA can deflect under hard turning/cornering. Adding the plates most likely will not affect  how tight the LCA are.
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    Current Mopar
    70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
    05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
    Past Mopars
    9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

    Offline SlyGuy

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    Re: Torsion Bars/Lower Control Arm
    « Reply #14 on: November 21, 2019 - 07:53:17 AM »
    So the stiffener plates don't actually tighten up the torsion bar socket/lever assembly? I haven't checked YouTube yet to see if there are any videos on using the stiffener plates. I guess I was visualizing squeezing the LCA with a clamp, and welding on the plate thinking that would maybe tighten things up a little? Is that stupid? The one that seems loose to me is a little sloppy feeling (like it wobbles a little). Do you think it is dangerous if I use it, or will it just cause some clanking up front?
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