70 challenger will not start

[BadJoey]

 Hi guys . This is a strange one for me.One night while sitting around i decided to install new radiator ,shroud and electric fan . One of the dummiest things I ever did .The fan drew way too much electric . Car ran bad back fire and so on Now car cranks but will not start not .Horn blows when cranking car but stops when key is released . For years there is something wrong under dash. If car will not runI move wires till car started . Some times the wires in steering colum other times tne big  wire plug in going through fire wall .Big car show this week end .Not looking to good for me . I sure hope someone there has a idea .

[70chall440]

You got a lot going on here.

The horn deal points to some problems with the wiring in the column. Does the horn go on as soon as the key/switch is turned or just when cranking?

As to the fan, did you run a relay? Are you abandoning the fan or are you asking for assistance?

[BadJoey]

The guy up the road is helping now . Here is what we found so far . Where the wire goes though the fire wall the horn post was hitting something hot when i would crank . I thought it was fixed after that. We changed the balast resistor and after my friend adjusted the carb car was running best ever . Until I blew the horn  :bricks1:At least now I know where to start my search. Not looking to good for best car show ever . I,m going but not my car . There will be over 8000 car . Plenty of cars to look at wires and talk about this .As for the fan I hate that     Now car trys to start when cranting but  stops when key is released .

[JayBee]

Now car trys to start when cranting but  stops when key is released .

If it starts but dies as soon as the key is released - that's a classic sign of a bad ballast resistor.

[jimynick]

If it starts but dies as soon as the key is released - that's a classic sign of a bad ballast resistor.

  Yep, what the man said. 

[BadJoey]

Changed ballast car started . We were testings to see what we have as well as what we lost .Everything was looking good till my friend said blow the horn and I did .Car's not even trying to fire now . Had me thinking the horn was bad . While looking for a solution I found a wire that was getting hot HORN wire .That led me to the ballast and that was getting really hot.My last thing . Last thing on that run was the voltagw regulator and it was also hot .My next thought was the voltage regulator had a dead short so after changing that no more hot wires but car still not frieing and no spark at coil . This is becoming very anoying I'be trying again today .Going to try a new ballast . Cross your fingers for me .

[70chall440]

The horn wire should not be getting hot however the ballast resistor does get hot and I have seen some VR's that get pretty warm (none of the wiring should be getting hot)

[BadJoey]

Well at this point I,ve spend 10 or 15 hours . At times things get really hot other not to bad . My next thought is the rim blow steering wheel. When car was working good then I blew the horn things got' crazy .That was the fastest I ever took the steering wheel off.When I got the wheel it was pretty bad 'The rubber ring in the steering wheel was trash . A friend gave me one he had .It was shorting out but a piece of plastic betwee copper rings and all fixed at that time .Thats my next move it fits my problems .

[70chall440]

I really am not following what you are saying. So the car was running well and then you blew the horn and what happened? Did blowing the horn affect the way the car was running? The horn wire should not have any affect on the running of the engine.

If however you mean that the horn/s went off when you hit the button (or squeezed the rim) and would not stop, then just disconnect the horns instead of ripping the steering wheel off. But either way there is obvious a short and since it only went off when pushed/squeezed then its most likely the wheel/horn button. I like the rim blow wheel but the rubber horn ribbon can be problematic not to mention expensive (its the same one as used on Fords of the same era). Also I don't like how thin they are (the wheel itself) and lastly they are big and can be a problem for some larger people. I run tuff wheels in most of my cars these days.

[BadJoey]

 My next thought is the rim blow steering wheel. When car was working good then I blew the horn things got crazy .That was the fastest I ever took the steering wheel off.When I got the wheel it was pretty bad 'The rubber ring in the steering wheel was trash . A friend gave me one he had .It was shorting out but a piece of plastic betwee copper rings and all fixed at that time .Thats my next move it fits my problems Aftere I curren have the steering colume out of the car .I can't say how many times i thought it was fixed , I have the rubber ring out but no saving that part .It Came out in pieces .I have another colum  Every looks good but no key . so now I'm trying to change the key cylinder . With that said now I have a 2nd list of things . Even if I was ready to sending it out now  I dont have any plase I could send it too. 
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[BadJoey]

My next project if anyone knows can I get a new key cylinder with out taking column apart ?

[70chall440]

Well you don't have to remove the column, just remove the steering wheel, crush can and turn signal switch. The ignition switch is below that.

[JayBee]

You still have to remove the collar that's  below the crush can/turn signal switch to get at the key cylinder and it looks like the lock out gear has to come off too.

The collar removal starts around the 10:30 mark of the video. Excellent step by step video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GhnnUm94oA

[70chall440]

Thanks JayBee, its been awhile since I took a part a E body column.

['Cuda Hunter]

The videos are also on this web page.      https://www.e-bodies.org/videos/         but with lots of other stuff on the page as well. 

I hope you figure out your issue.  There is someone else watching your thread.