Engine Temp at 210 degrees

Author Topic: Engine Temp at 210 degrees  (Read 4635 times)

Offline Johnny Cuda

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Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« on: September 18, 2005 - 05:43:01 PM »
I'm in the process of breaking in my 360/380 HP crate motor and have noticed the water temperature wants to stay at 210 degrees when fully warmed up. The car is not over heating but seems like the normal range should be 180 to 190 degrees. I am running a mopar performance stock clutch fan. I am missing the shroud. I am not running a vacuum advance (got it plugged cause I couldn't get the thing to idle at a steady RPM). I am running champion spark plugs. The timing is set per the instructions and the car responds nicely. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 8)




Offline 74MOPAR

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Re: Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2005 - 11:00:57 PM »
 Get a radiator shroud.

 What is the condition of the radiator ? Old, NEw, rebuilt, recored ?

 Redline water wetter. it costs about $8.  Can get it from Summit, speed shops, some parts stores. It helps the efficiency of the cooling process.
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Offline Johnny Cuda

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Re: Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2005 - 05:17:45 PM »
74 - The Radiator is new, I am going to get that shroud, I'm also going to put a non-collapsable lower radiator hose on, and I also decided to go to a cooler spark plug (RC9yC). I'll make changes one at a time and let you know how it works out. Thanks for replying.

Johnny  8)

Offline Mopar73340

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Re: Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« Reply #3 on: September 19, 2005 - 06:10:54 PM »
You didn't say if it's a thermostatic clutch or not, some don't fully engage the fan until around 210*.  New engine's make lots of heat so it may act more normal as it gets some miles on it.
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Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2005 - 01:08:59 AM »
add more timing , shroud would help, make sure the lower rad hose has a wire inside to prevent collapsing  & as 73340 said new engines will run hotter often

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Offline Johnny Cuda

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Re: Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2005 - 08:31:24 PM »
I ordered the shroud today, and have installed the wire in the lower radiator hose.

Chryco - My timing is currently set at 38 degrees BTC at 3000 RPM with the vacuum advance plugged and not hooked up. Does this sound about right??

Johnny

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« Reply #6 on: September 21, 2005 - 10:55:43 PM »
 should be close to perfect

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Offline Johnny Cuda

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Re: Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« Reply #7 on: October 06, 2005 - 06:55:59 PM »
Well, I'm one fustrated dude! I've tried everything that I can think of and still no improvement. I started out with a coil in the lower radiator hose - no change. Then I put in water wetter - no change. Then I put in plugs three temp ranges cooler - no change. Then I bought and installed a shroud - no change. I just rechecked my timing, still at about 36-38 degrees BTC at 3000 RPM with no vacuum advance. I did hear that running no vacuum advance will make it run hotter.

Got home from testing it in 75 degree weather and it still runs at 210 degrees. When I got home and felt the upper rad hose it was rock solid from pressure, did not overheat though. The engine just seems to be throwing off huge amounts of heat.

Is 210 degrees really a problem? or am I just being paranoid, so far I've put about 60 medium to hard miles on the new motor and it has not overheated or ran bad.

I'm just gettin more and more nervous to drivin it cause I don't want to break something or hurt the motor. It's depressing cause I can't enjoy my ride and I've dumped some big bucks into it. If anyone has any ideas or advice I would really appreciate it right about now. 

Thanks,
Johnny

Offline Mt.St.BigBlock

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Re: Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« Reply #8 on: October 06, 2005 - 07:14:28 PM »
Hey JC, How confident are you in the accuracy of that temp gauge? I've already taken a meat
thermometer like the type you stab into a turkey, put a little grease on it to help conduct
heat, duct tape it to the upper radiator hose with the probe against the hose and then wrap
an old towel around the whole works with just the dial showing. It works pretty good 'cuz them
meat t-meters are graduated real nice in that 160 to 200 degree area and it confirms what the
temp gauge is saying. When you stop laughing, give it try!!  One thing you don't want is that new
360 getting cooked "well done"!!  Jeff

10/7/05  P.S. Wife tells me that was the candy thermometer I "ruined" not the meat thermometer!!


« Last Edit: October 07, 2005 - 01:31:01 PM by Mt.St.BigBlock »
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Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« Reply #9 on: October 06, 2005 - 11:46:12 PM »
210 is not out of the normal operating range
advancing the timing at idle & not using vacuum advance will help the engine run cooler , have you tried changing thermostats?
possibly the thermostat is not opening at the correct temp , check the accuracy of the temp guage as suggested
 I would not be paranoid about driving at 210 , the cooling system is designed to work up to the 230* range & it is not overheating just running at th ewarm end of the range   

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Offline Johnny Cuda

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Re: Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« Reply #10 on: October 07, 2005 - 07:17:35 AM »
Thanks for the replies, I'm gonna go ahead and try your idea Big Block.

Chryco -- What do you think about a 195* thermostat?? I think the one that came with the motor is 180*. Also did you say that the engine will actually run cooler with the vacuum advance disconnected? What would you recommend me setting the timing at at idle and at what RPM should I set it? 850 or so??

Thanks

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« Reply #11 on: October 07, 2005 - 10:34:37 PM »
no set the timing at 3000 rpm then let it idle , you can play with the timing at idle to see if it likes more advance [shorter curve] or less [longer curve]
 just try a new thermostat your may not be working 

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Offline Grancoupe

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Re: Engine Temp at 210 degrees
« Reply #12 on: October 14, 2005 - 05:46:03 PM »
Did you look at the plugs when you pulled them? Were they black tan or white? You can cool the car down by running the engine a liitle on the rich side.

Are the pullies the right ones? Is the water pump pulley small enough? The larger the water pump pulley the slower the water pump is turning.

Is the fan pulling air or is the cutch slipping. Is there a decent amount of air getting pulled through the radiator?

I'm only fishing for ideas that haven't been mentioned yet. I'm surprised that none of the things mentioned by everyone haven't fixed it yet.