Author Topic: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys (Read 4512 times)

miketyler · « **on:** November 30, 2005 - 05:55:35 AM »

I installed the passenger side Electric-Life regulator in my Cuda yesterday. I am experiencing what others have reported about the slow up speed on these. Has anyone improved upon this by rebuilding or lubricating the existing window tracks and/or guides? I don't think that the problem is in the tracks as the window rolls down very fast. I think there is a tendency of the window to slightly "seesaw" between its tracks creating friction and funky vibration just before its at the top of its travel. Are all windows that "loose"from front to rear? I do have some play and was wondering if there are wear parts that can be replaced there? Surely the windows didnt have that sort of play when they were new. Any ideas?� How hard is it to remove the glass to get to the rails and the guides?

cudacharlie · « **Reply #1 on:** December 02, 2005 - 12:02:32 PM »

Although not specific to Electric-Life or E-Bodys, the guys over at 1970chargerregistry.com have been thru hell with window regulators, and have lots of pics... maybe there is some useful info over there.

Try this thread, and/or do a search for "window"...

http://1970chargerregistry.com/70messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=2150

Good luck, and keep us posted, as I was considering the swap to power windows in my 70 cuda vert and have heard horror stories both about 35-yr-old window regulators AND the new systems from E-L.... I think that lots of the little pieces (rollers, bushings, etc.) ARE available from yearone, Mr. G's, or r/t specialties.

miketyler · « **Reply #2 on:** December 03, 2005 - 07:22:49 AM »

Thanks for the response Charlie. I will check em out. I really think the best up speed is going to require a true and smooth tracking window. Also, whomever it was that had noted in an earlier thread that there ought to be a helper spring installed was probably spot on. I would gladly trade off some of the down-speed for some up speed. All things considered, with the Ebody glass being so large and heavy, I believe the E-L system will only provide a low to moderate up-speed.

72Chall77Doba · « **Reply #3 on:** December 03, 2005 - 09:31:10 PM »

I don't know why you have this problem.
Mine go down real quick like dropping an anchor into the water but they also go up like a rocket.
And there is plenty of play in em.

miketyler · « **Reply #4 on:** December 04, 2005 - 06:01:22 AM »

well that IS interesting. Maybe I have a bad regulator? I may install the drivers side and see if it behaves the same way. Did you do your installation yourself?

72Chall77Doba · « **Reply #5 on:** December 04, 2005 - 10:47:04 PM »

Quote from: miketyler on December 04, 2005 - 06:01:22 AM

well that IS interesting. Maybe I have a bad regulator? I may install the drivers side and see if it behaves the same way. Did you do your installation yourself?

I am THE MOST, WITHOUT A DOUBT, most UNmechanical person in the solar system.
However, I do a show winning job of washing and waxing.lol.

miketyler · « **Reply #6 on:** December 06, 2005 - 07:28:02 AM »

I called EL yesterday and they insist that it is friction between the glass and the outside wiper seal. I went ahead and installed the drivers side regulator last night and had the same results as the passenger side with a very slow up-speed. I found adjustments at the base of the window guide rails. They have slotted holes in the bottom of the door going inbd and outbd. Whodathunkit? I loosened them up and slid them inbd (they were adjusted all the way obd) and tried the window again and voila! a substantial improvment in up-speed. I will spend more time with this tonite but it would appear that the window pressure against the wiper seal is critical to getting the proper operating speed.

If your standard crank windows are hard to roll up, you might want to ck these adjustments.

I was beginning to think I was going to be stuck with a PW kit that I couldnt use

HemiDog · « **Reply #7 on:** December 06, 2005 - 08:44:43 AM »

This is good news! I was thinking of adding a set to my project.

miketyler · « **Reply #8 on:** December 08, 2005 - 07:34:30 PM »

I got both windows dialed in today. Both operate great and are almost as fast going up as they are going down. The things I had to do were as follows:
1. adjust the window guide rails (3bolts bottom the door) - this reduced the pressure against the wiper seal and eased the load on the motor.
2. clean and relube the giide rails with a thin coat of white lithium grease
3. use a dry silcone spray on the wiper seal
4. apply wax to the outer surface of the glass

The rail adjustments were the most performance affecting thing. The other things just seemed to make it operate smoother. Next thing will be figuring out how to wire in the OEM switches.

cudacharlie · « **Reply #9 on:** December 09, 2005 - 10:24:07 PM »

Nicely done, miketyler! I had read threads about how persnickety windows (power or not) can be to get re-adjusted and operating smoothly. I'm encouraged now.... Although if I can find a set of original power regulators and motors in good shape, I may risk it with restored originals... I have heard that power window setups from 70 through 74 would work, but that convertibles were different to hardtops.. can anyone confirm? Are Cuda and Challenger power window regulators interchangeable? Hmmm....

miketyler · « **Reply #10 on:** December 14, 2005 - 05:50:21 PM »

Quote

Are Cuda and Challenger power window regulators interchangeable?

I dont know why they wouldn't be. The originals were two-wire reversing motors and so are the Electric-Life units. At one time I thought that the OEM switches were different and that additional wiring and/or relays would be necessary to retrofit but not so. The OEM Mopar switches have four leads each and provide reverse polarity to the motors mechanically so no additional relays are necessary.

I think the OEM system did have a safety relay that would reverse the window if a load were present. Can anyone confirm this?

Katfish · « **Reply #11 on:** December 30, 2005 - 03:16:30 PM »

I'm glad you were able to get the windows to work for you. I tried these in my Challenger with no luck and returned them. No matter how much I adjusted the window tracks they still dropped VIOLENTLY and then struggled to get back up.

Do you now have problems with water intrusion around the window/glass gaskets? When you adjust the tracks all the way in, it brings the top of the glass out. This will reduce the seal and cause leaking when it rains or you wash the car.

miketyler · « **Reply #12 on:** December 30, 2005 - 05:41:54 PM »

It took some doing but they are good to go. I didnt get out the hose and test but the window does make good positive pressure against the upper window seals. That is a good point regarding the adjustment of those rails. It does change the profile of the window in its up position and as a result you may lose a little pressure against the seals. On mine I was careful to find a happy medium where I was getting proper deflection of the seal along the leading edge on the way up. My top seal is shaped like a "W" and the window nests nicely inside of it.

Chasing down all the OEM Mopar parts for the switches was a pain. There is a retainer and the wire clip connector with leads that you have to have to give it that factory look. Also, some of my switches came with an interior trim plate that goes between the switch and the door plastic. I dont think Ebods came with it but it would help fill the tiny gap that is apparent when its left out. If anyone has one of these for the dual switch, let me know.

chevyconvert · « **Reply #13 on:** December 30, 2005 - 05:53:01 PM »

just curious, but do you leave the rears manual?

miketyler · « **Reply #14 on:** December 30, 2005 - 06:09:28 PM »

Yes for now. I do have an extra pair of single switches, a 4-switch master and all the retainers and wiring if I decide I want to torture myself in the future. At one point I did consider it but I don't like the kit they offer for the rears. If I understood correctly it uses your old regulators and places a motor on your existing crank handle. You have to put a circular cover on this and it makes the rear panel look tacky. I studied the rear qtr regulator however and it looks like the shaft and stablilizer bracket could be shortened but the motor kit may be dependent on the splines. I decided it was too much re-engineering for me right now. I am trying to get the interior of my car finished up and that would just add to the misery.

Author Topic: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys (Read 4512 times)

miketyler

Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

cudacharlie

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

miketyler

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

72Chall77Doba

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

miketyler

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

72Chall77Doba

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

miketyler

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

HemiDog

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

miketyler

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

cudacharlie

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

miketyler

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

Katfish

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

miketyler

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

chevyconvert

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys

miketyler

Re: Electric Life power window systems for Ebodys