Need some advice please

[AprilsPink72Cuda]

As some of you guys already know, I was planning on getting my heads rebuilt and adding the bigger 2.02" valves and putting in a new cam.  I guess I work a little bit backwards, but now I am going to pull the motor and rebuild it.  I have talked to a couple of machine shops and I am close to picking which one I want to use.  I will be suppling all of the parts and paying just for labor.  I want to make sure I get everything I need and of course wanted to run everything by Chryco and the rest of you to see what you think of my choices.  I also have a few questions.  I'll start by listing what I plan on getting.  

ENGINE KIT (from Mancini) contains:
-Clevite Rod, Main and Cam Bearings
-Freeze Plugs (do you think that it comes with block and head plugs or just the block plugs?)
-Melling Oil Pump (I want to see if I can get the kit with a high volume pump especially if y'all think it is worth it)
-Sealed Power Moly Rings
-Sealed Power Sterling Pistons (Forged)
-Felpro gasket set (do you think this comes with a complete gasket set?)

MP Purple Shaft Cam Kit contains:
-Cam (I think I am going with 280/280 duration 474/474 lift)
-springs, rods, locks, and retainers

Cam Key Set

2.02" intake valves/new valve seals  (I currently have the 1.88" valves)

Double Roller Timing Chain

Windage tray (is this something that I need? Don't know much about 'em)

ARP fasteners (are there any fasteners I can re-use or should I buy all new?)

MP waterpump: there is a 6 blade and an 8 blade.  Which would you recommend.  They say at Mancini that the 6 blade if for use with cast heads and 8 blade for aluminum heads (from catalog:Basic high flow designs. Six blade pump is recommended for use with cast iron cylinder heads and drag racing applications. Pump can be used for service replacement in Magnum crate motors.  Eight blade pump is recommended for use with aluminum cylinder heads and circle track applications. Pump can be used for service replacement in Magnum crate motors.)

Last but not least, I would like to ask for some advice on a torque converter.  What stall speed do you think I would need?  My cam rpm is 2000-6000.

I will be boring the block .30 over and having the heads rebuilt including a 3 angle valve job.  If I am putting in new intake valves can I keep the current exhaust valves?

I will be keeping my 4.10's and will be topping the motor off with the new six pak set up Joe got me for Christmas.  Am I missing anything important here?  

[torredcuda]

Your 340 should have a windage tray already on it but who knows?.Only bore your cylinders as much as needed to save material for a future rebore down the road as the overbore will not gain you any horsepower.Of course you need to have them bored first before ordering pistons and rings.Same with your main and rod bearings,you will need to have the machine shop check everything out before ordering as they may need to turn your crank.

[Chryco Psycho]

Windage tray is a Must ,20 free Hp
 Do not use a HV oil pump unless you have a 10 qt oil pan , HP pump will be perfect
 if you get 308 heads the exhaust valves are very high quality so reuse then if possible
 24-2500 stall converter
 even if the freeze plug kit doesn`t have head plugs they are easily supplied by the machinist
 use pioneer rod bolts they are half the cost of ARP & basically the same bolt , you could use MAin studs , all other fasteners can be reused unless you want to change them
 Make sure you use a good quality TRUE roller timing chain
 use the 6 blade water pump ...another 15 free hp
 I would polish the con rod beams & make sure the rotating assy is balanced
 I use Full groove brgs for the mains
 

[AprilsPink72Cuda]

Thanks guys!  CP is a MP Double Roller Timing Chain good to use?  Also, I am using my heads, no luck around here with the truck ones, but that's OK with me.  Should I replace my exhaust valves and if so, should I go bigger with those as well?

[Chryco Psycho]

no the Mopar chain is not good , use a Jp performance or Cloyes
 I have a set of 308 castings if you want them

[gomangoRT/SE]

Absolutely no doubt get the rotating assembly balanced.   I am sure the machine shop would insist you do this.    Cloyes timing chain is THE choice.    The purple shaft is fine for your application.......gives a nice bumpety bump sound and that cam with the 4:10 rear will launch the car and give you plenty of low end.    With the six pack set up you will have a mighty fine ride with alot of pep.    Best of luck April

[AprilsPink72Cuda]

Thanks CP and GoMango!  I will go with the Cloyes timing chain and I did plan on having the rotating assembly balanced.  Thanks for the offer on the 308's, that is very nice of you, but I will just use mine.  If it turns out there is a problem with mine I will let you know though  .

[Chryco Psycho]

K .............40 HP is a lot to throw away

[Follicly Challenged]

Use a 75 deg. "Bowl Hawg" above the valve, in the bowl, after enlarging for the 2.02", or "mildly" port/blend the bowls.

If you pollish the Rod beams, re-harden with SOMETHING, even glass bead 'em. Still better than nothing. Takes many thermal cycles to re surface-harden, not that it's a big issue, lots run forever with "shiny" beams, just that if you're there, you might as well.

[JS27N0B]

How about a stoker crank while your there, Be good bang for the buck.

[Topcat]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but 340's should already have a windage tray in it. (Mine did) So I don't believe you'll need to buy one of them April.

[JS27N0B]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but 340's should already have a windage tray in it. (Mine did) So I don't believe you'll need to buy one of them April.

They did, but who knows if it is still there?

[AprilsPink72Cuda]

They did, but who knows if it is still there?

I don't think it is still there but I will find out later today for sure. 

[JS27N0B]

Once you have the oil pan off you will know for sure as they bolt up to the special main bearing cap bolts.

[Chryco Psycho]

still available new from Mopar , Mancini Etc if needed