engine build

[Killer_Mopar]

If you dont have the funds and/or if there wasnt anything wrong with your old heads, then just re-use them. If you have some spare cash look into the cheapest performance head which are the Edelbrocks. By the time you put in larger valves, new springs, retainers, valve seals, and machine work on the 906s you will wish that you had gone with the Edelbrocks.

[71383bee]

One thing to note about the Aluminum heads is that they typically need a little more compression to work well.  With Al's I would imagine you will need at least 10:1 compression.  This means that your piston selection and/or block deck will need to have some attention to it.  Beside's it's just a good idea to have compression anyways and it's very hard to build compression rather than lower it if you need to. 

[firefighter3931]

Many magazines, and builders, including myself, could attest to, and document, up to 340 cfm on "critical" benchs from INDY SR heads, in a fully ported version, utilizing max-wedge port window.
"HOLY BIG AIR BATMAN ! " for a bolt on head, that accepted a customers stock parts ! Albeit remember the aforementioned "header/application" pains of the SR.
INDY re-did the "SR" slightly, with a "stock location" exhaust port, and presto !  INDY "EZ" head WAS BORN !

Yep, the sr's and ez's move a bunch of air when opened up to a MW port.....but that takes them out of the "stock" manifold category. The new ez-1's go ~335cfm@600 right from Indy with the cnc'd bowls....pretty impressive. The basic EZ is a 300cfm head....out of the box. The lower ex. port location is a bonus for guys who've allready spent big $$ on an exhaust system based on a std port location. Both are great heads that need to be opened up to realize their full potential.

Edelbrock is coming out with a new Victor head soon that is claimed to go 330cfm and use a std port window. It'll be interesting to see how they work out. The only negative is the requirement for an offset intake rocker due to the pushrod relocation.....so they won't be a true "stock replacement" head. Headers, intakes, rocker shafts etc... should all bolt up w/o issue. Definately a race 440ci head but probably a great street/strip head for a stroker build.

Ron

[matt63]

I've learned some lessons about engine building as I have just completed my 408 stroker:
-stroke kits are not "bolt together"  Allow some money for "finish" machining and balancing.
-the block machining was double what I had budgeted due align boring of the mains, broken dipstick, dist bush, etc. etc.
- even if you develop a parts list there will undoubtdly be more to add (gaskets, hardware, etc.)

Be prepared to spend more. I think Killer_Mopars's advice re: focus on the bottom end is right on. Heads and intake can be done later if you have to cut some corners now.

[Killer_Mopar]

- even if you develop a parts list there will undoubtdly be more to add (gaskets, hardware, etc.)

Whats even worse than the forgotten items are the ones that come in quality levels like timing chains, dampners, pushrods, rocker arms, and other stuff. Its those items that really kill the budget because you look at the prices long and hard and say to yourself "Well this replacement part is X amount of dollars, but for ONLY 20% more I can have a performance version".

Another one that really hurts the budget is the item that is superioir to the rest and you buy more parts to compliment it. Example: You upgrade your oil pump, then look at the oil pan and see that its a little old, so you buy a new oil pan to compliment the oil pump. You then say "well might as well get a new pickup" and then it turns into "well I better buy a new oil pump drive to" and so on......

[matt63]

Another one that really hurts the budget is the item that is superioir to the rest and you buy more parts to compliment it. Example: You upgrade your oil pump, then look at the oil pan and see that its a little old, so you buy a new oil pan to compliment the oil pump. You then say "well might as well get a new pickup" and then it turns into "well I better buy a new oil pump drive to" and so on......

That was my disease.  The only used part was the timing chain cover, block and pulleys.  In the end I wouldn't have changed anything though.

[Chryco Psycho]

the stock heads Can work , at least add the 1.81 exhaust valve & port them , porting is ambiguous & is a personal thing so results will vary , I can get great results from porting Iron heads but moving to an Ez or Bulldog has to be considered given the cost of both , you will spend less with iron heads but you get less also

[Schwep]

How bout a few thoughts while on this topic...If header clearances are not a concern, which head is the better choice Indy SR or EZ?  Better in regard to oiling (returns) and potential on a possible future build (perhaps stroker).  Considering both std port and MW.  Any thoughts?

[ordjoe]

ok got the macine work done the strk kit fit tested everything is good to go heads rebuit 3 angle about to start the build dont have the money for the sixpac so i think i am going to go with the dual quad 600 cfm set up from summit   question what camshould i go with the way my build is headed

[Chryco Psycho]

How bout a few thoughts while on this topic...If header clearances are not a concern, which head is the better choice Indy SR or EZ?  Better in regard to oiling (returns) and potential on a possible future build (perhaps stroker).  Considering both std port and MW.  Any thoughts?

the SR head is more serious with raised exhaust ports so the potential is better , the EZ is more of a budget head with compromised exhaust ports but still will work well , I like the oil feed to the EZ better , but a restrictor can be added to the exteranal lines on the SR ,


 Solid or Hyd cam Ordjoe

[ordjoe]

 hyd it is just have to find the right one now

[sccarts1]

hey joe, i went down the road you're walking .and not to burst you bubble your better off buying a crate motor from MP
you'll be up and running  sooner & better and probably at less cost.  i know its exciting to engineer your own powerplant
and the guys on this site are some of the most knowledgeable anywhere but the truth is that recreating a smok'in
440+6 with all the right stuff from old parts will easily cost you 12k plus lots of aggravation cause just when you think
your finished shelling out dough you'll find you need to spend another 500..600 or 800  for something else . it never seems to end.
if you have'nt got your own machine shop your better off saving your time and $ for the body restoration that's a whole
story in itself. you did say cuda 440+6 ??
i personally love the entire process and i've got the time and the money but that said, it does get a little long in the tooth and as another hobbyist once said to me, " i don't know why we do these things to ourselves" just my 2 cents.
mopar on !!!!