Power window wiring

[miketyler]

Am wiring up my windows and have hit a snag. I am putting a dual switch on the drivers side that will control the drivers side and pass side window. The pass window works well with the single OEM mopar switch hooked up. However, when I connect the drivers side switch to the pass motor I get a mild short when I press the up or down on it. Also, the motor drags when the pass switch is operated. No problems at all when either switch is connected by itself.  I have tried reversing the up/down wires as well as the +/- wires to see if that was the issue but no change.

The OEM Mopar PW switch is pretty simple. The single PW switch has 5 leads. Two have to be coupled together for power, one is grounded, and the other two go directly to a reversing motor. In the up position power is applied to the motor. In the down position power is applied but the polarity is reversed. 

Is this a case where you could place a diode in the remote switch motor leads? That would isolate power being generated to the opposite switch when the other is in use. I dont have the schematic for the dual switch but it appears to be the same as the 4way switch with only two switches. Can anyone offer some advice here?   

[71 DEPUTY]

MIKE-is this a true power window switch? wire harness hasn't been touched?

[miketyler]

Hey John - no, this is a DIY project that uses Electric Life regulators and the factory OEM Mopar switches and switch clips. All the rest is new wiring I have run. After studying the diagram closer I think I may have found it. It looks like the two power leads to each switch are supposed to be separated. One is the power source and the other would be regulated power to the other switch(s). There would be no power to the other switches while the master is in operation.

I'll have to separate the power leads and see if that alleviates the shorted condition I am getting. Take a look at the diagram and see what you think.

[71 DEPUTY]

the remote switches have no power into the contacts until the switch is pressed on- then power and then the - to the master to ground point!!!

a little tricky but it works!!!

[miketyler]

Not sure I know what you mean. So how would that wire up? There are six leads on the remote dual switch and 5 leads on each single switch.  Is one of the leads on the single switch not used?  It seems reasonable that the power feed wire to the pass switch would come from the master and that power would be interrupted to the pass switch when the master is in use? Maybe I dont have it right here?

BTW - ck out my boots! $5/pr from the wrecking yard!
 

[71 DEPUTY]

ok Mike- lets use the pass. front as a example!

when you use the master switch- power is feed throught the switch contact point- thru the wiring to the remote switch, there it just passes thru the switches + power point to the motor- then the - returns thru the remote switch again on a different contact point in the switch, back thru the wiring to the master switch. now with the master switch the other contact point in the switch now is connected to the wire for the ground.
when the switch is pressed th opposite way- all the reverse above.

now for the pass.side- remote

power to the centre of the switch comes from a splice which is the same power as the master switch.

#1- when the switch is pressed down- power is sent thru one contact point to the motor- then back to the switch- thru a different contact point to the wiring, back to the master switch- there it is thru a contact point of that specific switch which it's contact point is at it's resting position is closed to allow a ground point for the motor.

#2- all the reverse happens for the up position.

the remote switch is like a double pole- double throw relay- both sets of contacts change at the same time to provide power one way and then with the swicth postion changes- the other way.

the master is is the same- but provides all the grounding points for the motors!!

hope this helps!!  follow my words as you have the wiring diagram to follow the power routing!!

John Mac

[miketyler]

Thanks for that John -  after staring at the schematic I still wasnt sure I was grasping it. I had a friend look at it and I didnt completely understand his explanation either. He did "dumb it down" for me and described how it should connect up. Once I had it connected and working I returned to the schematic and it seemed to make more sense. My biggest misconception was probably that only the master switch gets grounded. I wanted to ground each switch!

Anyhow its working now, thanks for the help!

[71 DEPUTY]

your welcome Mike!!!  have fun!!!!  done this several times  to my beasts over the years!!!!

[miketyler]

I have one other general wiring question; I have added a few other options and have strung some of the std blue, red, green, and yellow wires. I hate to repeat the same colors again for my power window instalation. I am looking at other colors to match the switch wiring like orange, pink, light blue, purple, etc. but am finding limited sources for this colored wiring. 

Painless has these colors but they are around $20 per 25ft (14AWG) which is a bit pricey. I found a dealer on ebay that has marine grade wire that is tinned. Supposedly this cuts down on corrosion. Does tinning throughout the conductor introduce any increased resistance issues?  Any reason why I wouldnt want to use tinned copper wire for this?  

[71 DEPUTY]

wouldn't use it- it stiffens up the wire- this would be a real problem where it is going through the doors due to the contant opening/closing of the doors!!!