pics request?

[ReturnofCuda]

I'm looking for pics of E-bodies with a 1" spring relocation and a 3" spring relocation with mini- tub. I'm rebuilding the rear of my car and haven't decided on what to do with the springs yet. These cars look awesome with some meat under them, But I don't want the full tub 4 link look. Looking for more of the 70's-80's style pro-street, skinnies up front and wide in rear! I don't know which relocation would give me the look I'm going for that's why I'm requesting the pics and effects of relocations on handling and feel of the car.

[ReturnofCuda]

Does anyone have any idea where I could find pics?

[Rev-It-Up]

Wish I could help...sorry!

[ReturnofCuda]

Wish I could help...sorry!

Since no one has pics I will post some soon as I locate some. I'm going to try and e-mail Moog to see if they can help me out.

[ReturnofCuda]

This is how I want mine to sit. Just don't know what I need to make the stance like the one in the pic?

[falcon50flier]

With the original wheel houses you can get a 10" wheel width and "normal" tire profile in while maintaining clearance with allowance for suspension travel (and some side to side movement of the leaf springs under cornering loads). Any more wheel/tire and you will likely make contact. Given the confines of the wheel house, unless you tub, I don't see any advantage to a 3" inboard relocation. The "B body" axle to axle width with wheel backspace in the 5 -5.5" range yields good fit and clearance, and the Doc's kits, Mopar kit, and Just Suspension give you several options on the hardware. The additional inboard spring clearance is pretty much wasted beyond an inch or so as you run out of wheel house clearance at the inside. A drag only car with traction bars and limited rear suspension travel could make better use of a 3" relo, 12.5" tires have been used successfully when suspension travel can be limited. Note with the 3" kits you have to cut up your frame rails and fabricate a mount for the rear shackles.

The stance on the car you like appears to have a normal spring arch (ie not super stock springs), with 15" wheels and an M/T or Hoosier "sportsman" tire.

Good luck.

[ReturnofCuda]

Given the confines of the wheel house, unless you tub, I don't see any advantage to a 3" inboard relocation.

I was considering mini tubs. I don't know if a 10" tire will give me the desired effect . This is why I'm looking for pics. The car in the pic is as close as I could find to what I'm looking for.

[falcon50flier]

Note I said 10" wheel, tire cross section is certainly wider, tread width can be 11" or greater potentially. (In 275/40-17, I have 11.5 cross section on 10" rim, 10.5 tread width.) What you will find as you put tires together with rim width is that tire manufs are all over the place on what rim they want with a given numerical size tire. I've seen minimum rim widths vary by up to an inch for the same size tire spec, and tread width and cross section vary quite a bit too. Things are pretty stable in 15", when you go to 17, 18, and bigger rims, they start becoming a research project.

If you must go big, go tubs by all means. Do remember tho, you will add 100s of hours to your project with that decision by the time suspension, body, paint, and tire fitment are sorted out...

[ReturnofCuda]

I'll be running 15" Centerlines. The car will have between 600 and 700 horse power. So it's not only looks I'm going for. I don't know if a 10" tread can handle that kind of power.

[360 'CUDA]

My white  car has the 1 inch kit with a B-rear in it  (see below)

I find the 3" kit to be worthless

[mrbill426]

With the original wheel houses you can get a 10" wheel width and "normal" tire profile in while maintaining clearance with allowance for suspension travel (and some side to side movement of the leaf springs under cornering loads).

That is with the original wheel houses AND orininal E-body 8 3/4" axle?  What kind of back space is required for that width with 15" wheels?  How "tall" of a tire will fit in there?  I'll be using the Mopar super stock springs with the required (but non-offset) front hangers.

 

[ReturnofCuda]

My white  car has the 1 inch kit with a B-rear in it  (see below)

I find the 3" kit to be worthless

Why do you find it worthless? I was thinking about mini tubing and a 3" kit or a 1" kit. Are you at the limit with the rear tires or could you go comfortably bigger?

[360 'CUDA]

Why do you find it worthless? I was thinking about mini tubing and a 3" kit or a 1" kit. Are you at the limit with the rear tires or could you go comfortably bigger?

Hey Returnofcuda,, How's it going.
The 3" kit on the A-body works great because the longitudinals "framerails" are straight and parallel. You just install the front spring hangers into the longitudinals and hang  the rear shackles off the back. Then you can tap down the lip of the longitudinals where they pass the tire and install tubs or minitubs.
Similar operation on B-bodies of course.
E-bods are not so easy
The E-body has longitudinals that are closer together in the front and further apart in the back so they are installed at an angle. At the same time the wheelwells are installed parallel so the front of the wheelwells are away from the longitudinals but the rear of the wheelwells are very close. (about 1 inch) when looking from above.
That means you have to dig into the rear of the longitudinals to get your full 3 inches of extra tub room.
In other words, you have to cut and weld the heck out of the front and the back of the longitudinals to get the 3 inch kit to work and that effects resale value, chassis strength and handling. With all that work you might as well back half the car and get 6 inches of extra room.
You don't have to cut or weld anything to use the 1 inch kit and you can change it back at a later date if you want

[ReturnofCuda]

Hey Returnofcuda,, How's it going.
The 3" kit on the A-body works great because the longitudinals "framerails" are straight and parallel. You just install the front spring hangers into the longitudinals and hang  the rear shackles off the back. Then you can tap down the lip of the longitudinals where they pass the tire and install tubs or minitubs.
Similar operation on B-bodies of course.
E-bods are not so easy
The E-body has longitudinals that are closer together in the front and further apart in the back so they are installed at an angle. At the same time the wheelwells are installed parallel so the front of the wheelwells are away from the longitudinals but the rear of the wheelwells are very close. (about 1 inch) when looking from above.
That means you have to dig into the rear of the longitudinals to get your full 3 inches of extra tub room.
In other words, you have to cut and weld the heck out of the front and the back of the longitudinals to get the 3 inch kit to work and that effects resale value, chassis strength and handling. With all that work you might as well back half the car and get 6 inches of extra room.
You don't have to cut or weld anything to use the 1 inch kit and you can change it back at a later date if you want

Thanx for the info! I think I'll go with the 1" kit. As for how it's going, I have the drivers side quarter cut off and am fitting the new one. Still need a lot of pieces like trunk pans, outer wheel houses, trunk extensions and a few other odds and ends. I  kind of got tight on money right now because I finally got to day shift and had to take a $2.00 an hour pay cut to do it. Hey it's worth it to me though, I will get to see my family a lot more. Thanx for asking!