Evil72,
If you weld up some front spring hangers, you won't need the a-body springs. Get yourself another set of front hangers and weld your old set to them exactly 1" to the inside. That way you get to keep the same e-body springs, drop your b-body rear end right on top without welding, and get an inch extra on each side. Those A-body super stock springs are too stiff. You don't need the b-body rear end if you move the spring mount on the axle and still get the extra 1" clearance. The ONLY REASON TO USE AN EARLY B-BODY REAR END is to fit a wheel that has less back spacing on it. Such as wanting a deep dish type look. Another good reason is that you might not want to do any welding on the axle.
the stock 8-3/4 width is fine if you are happy with your fender side clearance and want to move your tire closer to the frame rail. (such as more backspacing) Ralley wheels don't want that look. With only 7" trim rings available the wheels need a deeper back space, to reflect the pattern.
So IMO, the best setup: 1" offset welded front hangers, 1" offset rear hangers, E-body springs, E-body read end with perches moved in 1", 9" ralleys (they don't make them) with a 3.5 front spacing and a 5.5 backspacing, and wide-ass tires like Evil72's 295/50/15. VINTAGE VINTIQUES SAYS THAT THEIR 10" RALLEYS FIT WITHOUT MODS, but I don't have a set to trial fit. Anybody here have those here?
I've seen articles on the do it yourself front hanger welding and it holds up. (depends on your welding skills) For everyone trying this trick, if you cant weld, please have someone that can, weld it for you. You don't want the front of your leaf spring EVER falling out.
Rob
Rob