Ignition Module?? PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

[challenger72rt]

Last year, I posted that I swapped my stock intake for a Mopar Performance one, and afterwards, the car wouldn't start.  It occured to me this morning..

If I tried to start it without grounding the coil, would this fry the ignition module?  I remember not bothering to afix the coil to the intake because I had planned on attaching it to the fender well.  Could this be the problem?  I don't wanna track down/buy a new module if not, but if there is even a chance that this is the problem, I'll make the effort to fix it.

thoughts?

[MEK-Dangerfield]

I think your ignition module would be fine. The coil does need to be grounded though, so I think you have found the problem. 

  Mike

[challenger72rt]

the first few times it wasn't, but during an evening of trouble-shooting, it was grounded properly, and is still.  I assumed it was a bad ground, which could take forever to find, but today heard something about an ungrounded coil frying ignition modules.  But at $60-80 a pop, I wanna be SURE before I make a switch.

[Oldschool]

Are you sure the distributor is not 180* out?  Sometimes that happens when you remove it and re-install it.  It's worth checking out and it is free......            ...Oldschool

[challenger72rt]

it's a 440, so the destributor doesn't go thru the intake.  But we checked it JIC, and it was fine.

Here is the original post

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=14266.0

[Oldschool]

My bad! I assumed it was a small block--(don't know why)     .  Have you checked the ballast resistor.?  A $5.00 part that will shut you down if it goes bad. They are notorious for failing.  I always kepp a couple of spares with me.....    Oldschool

[challenger72rt]

hmmmm...what's it look like, and where does it go?

[Oldschool]

It is a white ceramic looking part that is usually mounted on the firewall.   It is about 4-5 inches long. Maybe about 3/4" X 3/4" square. It is rectangular in shape. It has 1 wire connected to each end of it. I don't have any pics of one, but maybe someone will post a pic of one for you..  Hope this helps you out.....   Oldschool

[Bullitt-]

  I can remember having problems with the plug in to the Module. had to tighten the screw in the middle good to make connection.  also make sure ground strap in place,  coil wires not backward.   

[JCWCuda]

I've had problems with a bad ground on the Control Module,and it drove me crazy  the only way i found out was i had another vehicle to test "Bad"Module on

[Bullitt-]

Another post tracked down to be the ballast resistor. It got me to thinking about some irratic behavior from mine so I spent five bucks at the parts store & what do ya know, she's smooth as silk now.     

[challenger72rt]

well, today I removed what I believe to be the Ballast Resistor, and as you can see in the photo, there is a decent chunk missing from the side.  Dumb question, but would this broken piece be significant enuff to prevent the car from turning over?

I know it's a silly question for a $15.00 part, right, but I'm a stay-at-home dad and money is REALLY tight, and my daughter's birthday is in 2 weeks, so even $15 makes a huge difference right now.  If it is a general concensus that this really could be the problem, then I'll get a new one, tho.  I'd just hate to spend the dough, and have it still not start

[Bullitt-]

That is the ballast resistor. I don't think the chunk itself would be THE problem. My terminals were loose & resistance changed with each wiggle . I paid $5.00 at Advance Auto parts

[Chryco Psycho]

grab one at a wreckers for a $ or 2 , it could be causing the no start , do you have an Ohm meter to test it ?

[challenger72rt]

*sigh...well, I installed a new ballast resistor, but she still won't start.  Tries, but won't catch.  I also made sure of a tight fit to the plug/module.

ARGH!  If I can't get it to start, my wife is making me sell it.  It's already on ePay, and if I get it goin', I can cancel the auction, and save her..if not..byebye sweetheart!