Carb. spacers.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

I never considered a carb. spacer before. I was thumbing thru Summit's lastest catalog when it got my attention. I didn't know about the performance gains.  My main interest is in getting the carb. off the intake as extra insurance against vapor lock. Anyone have an opinion of spacers? I think 1 inch is my max. At that point, my air-filter will be kissing my hood. Is it worth it? Would I have to buy another gasket for it? Thanks for any opinions. 

  Mike

[EVIL72]

 Yea you'll need two gaskets one from manifold to spacer and one from spacer to carb, also longer carb studs.
 

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Yea you'll need two gaskets one from manifold to spacer and one from spacer to carb, also longer carb studs.
 

UGH!!!
  Thanks, I didn't consider the longer carb. studs.     

  Mike

[Rob C]

Also, you'll want a 4 hole spacer because it will produce better torque. The open hole spacer should , but not allways produce more top end. Build dependent of course.
Also, in order of effectiveness on keeping the carb cool;
Aluminum, plastic/phenolic resin
wood, though the best, it could be a replaceable item alot due to extended use on a street car.

[Chryco Psycho]

the open spacer can increase mid & high rpm power especially on a dual plane intake where it will aloow a cretain amount of crossover between the 2 levels

[challenger72rt]

MEK,

I use a 1" open spacer and when I had the stock manifold, there were four bolts going from the spacer to the manifold, and four bolts up thru the spacer to the carb.

When I swapped to a MP intake, the bolt holes went straight down from the carb, thru the spacer to the intake.  If you have this set-up, lemme know.  I THINK you're in Canada (?) and I have the code for the proper Canadian Tire bolts that work for this set-up.  Took A LOT of trial and error to get it right, but I found 'em. 

[MEK-Dangerfield]

MEK,

I use a 1" open spacer and when I had the stock manifold, there were four bolts going from the spacer to the manifold, and four bolts up thru the spacer to the carb.

When I swapped to a MP intake, the bolt holes went straight down from the carb, thru the spacer to the intake.  If you have this set-up, lemme know.  I THINK you're in Canada (?) and I have the code for the proper Canadian Tire bolts that work for this set-up.  Took A LOT of trial and error to get it right, but I found 'em. 

I really haven't picked out a spacer yet. I was just asking for opinions here. Thanks for your offer, but I'm in the U.S.

[Oldschool]

Hey MEK.
 I can only speak from my experience with spacers.  I have used them on 2 different engines back in the day.  One was a hopped up 340, and the other was a mild 440.  Both used Holley carbs.  When I placed the spacers under the carbs, I never noticed any kind of performance increase, either on the street, or on the track.  I suppose that theoretically the increased plenum, etc, could make a detectable difference.  In my case it did not.  In defense of the spacers, I must confess that on one of them, I almost never got the gasket to seal to the carb and the intake at the same time.  Vacuum leaks hindered the setup.
If you are more concerned about keeping the engine heat away from the carb, there is an aluminum plate about 1/8" thick that is a heat shield for Holley type carbs. I have seen these in the 4 hole design and the open design. This might be just as effective for you, without worrying about hood clearance issues and longer studs/bolts.  Keeps the carb cooler, w/out raising the carb more than 1/8" above the intake manifold than where it is now.   Just my 0.02....       ...Oldschool

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Hey MEK.
 I can only speak from my experience with spacers.  I have used them on 2 different engines back in the day.  One was a hopped up 340, and the other was a mild 440.  Both used Holley carbs.  When I placed the spacers under the carbs, I never noticed any kind of performance increase, either on the street, or on the track.  I suppose that theoretically the increased plenum, etc, could make a detectable difference.  In my case it did not.  In defense of the spacers, I must confess that on one of them, I almost never got the gasket to seal to the carb and the intake at the same time.  Vacuum leaks hindered the setup.
If you are more concerned about keeping the engine heat away from the carb, there is an aluminum plate about 1/8" thick that is a heat shield for Holley type carbs. I have seen these in the 4 hole design and the open design. This might be just as effective for you, without worrying about hood clearance issues and longer studs/bolts.  Keeps the carb cooler, w/out raising the carb more than 1/8" above the intake manifold than where it is now.   Just my 0.02....       ...Oldschool

I appreciate the input. Do you have any idea of the manufacturer? I find it hard to believe aluminum would be a better heat shield than resin, but I'm just getting up to speed on this stuff.  Yes, I have a Holley by the way. 

  Mike

[Oldschool]

I appreciate the input. Do you have any idea of the manufacturer? I find it hard to believe aluminum would be a better heat shield than resin, but I'm just getting up to speed on this stuff.  Yes, I have a Holley by the way. 

  Mike

The aluminum works more by reflecting the heat away than as a heat sink to "draw" the heat away from the carb.

I'll see if I can find out who makes those.  If you can't find a premanufactured one, it wouldn't be hard to make one yourself out of aluminum or stainless steel.........   

[EVIL72]

 MEK, Jegs has a couple of different ones. There made by Holley and Mr.Gasket from $13.99 - $24.00

[MEK-Dangerfield]

MEK, Jegs has a couple of different ones. There made by Holley and Mr.Gasket from $13.99 - $24.00

Thanks a bunch. 

  Mike

[Grancoupe]

Be very careful tightening the carb bolts. With the added gaskets its easy to overtighten the bolts and break the base plate flanges. You feel like it never tightens as much as when the carb is sitting on the intake.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Be very careful tightening the carb bolts. With the added gaskets its easy to overtighten the bolts and break the base plate flanges. You feel like it never tightens as much as when the carb is sitting on the intake.

Thanks for the advice. I just made my order. I decided to go with the resin base spacer. It has to be better than nothing. The big blocks have that valley pan which is a nice design IF you are moving. If you are stuck in traffic for 45 minutes, there is no air movement under there. I think I will be OK now. 

  Mike