Help, Do i have 70-72 spindles on my 72 or 73 & later

Author Topic: Help, Do i have 70-72 spindles on my 72 or 73 & later  (Read 1698 times)

Offline keithcuda

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 36
    • Flat Rat Racing
Help, Do i have 70-72 spindles on my 72 or 73 & later
« on: April 20, 2006 - 05:53:57 PM »
I bought the wilwood front disc brake kit for my 72 cuda, and have nearly finished fitting.
I have had to swap my spindles from side to side to allow easier routing of brake lines.
My issue is, are my spindles from a 73 and later as the photos in the 72 service manual look different.
Refering to the MA article on disc upgrade/conversion they look like the 73+ spindles.
How do they differ? the willwood kit seems to fit ok, but i can't see obviously the bearing mating surfaces with the rotors on.
Has anyone got pics of both to compare or measurments, any help or reasurance welcome.

I could send a pic of mine tomorrow

Keithcuda
Keith Renouard
1972 Plymouth Ćuda
440 w/ M1 manifold, Holly 770 Steet Avenger
TTI exhaust
best 1/4 ET 13.4 (2005, Santa Pod, UK)
best 1/4 MPH 101.36 (ET 13.984) (31st July 2004, Santa Pod, UK)
G-Tech 0-60MPH = 5.0sec (Santapod 05)
Now i have a 1968 charger too, the collection grows




Offline PasiR

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 225
Re: Help, Do i have 70-72 spindles on my 72 or 73 & later
« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2006 - 10:58:41 PM »
Keith, 70-74 E-body spindle is same as 73-76 A-body. Correct me if I`m wrong.

Offline keithcuda

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 36
    • Flat Rat Racing
Re: Help, Do i have 70-72 spindles on my 72 or 73 & later
« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2006 - 12:31:27 PM »
Thats the spindle i have but the Mopar Action article must have a few typos, it says:

On all Mopars, the swap from drums to discs (or 2-piece rotors to unicast rotors) requires one "key" part: A new steering knuckle (a/k/a "spindle.") The knuckle you need for our primary swap is from any '73-'74 E-body, or, believe it or not, any '73- '76 disc-equipped A-body (Valiant/Dart/Duster). This is a non- wearing part and perfect examples can be had at most junkyards (see fig **), but if you run into trouble, excellent repros are now available from Master Power Brakes, Inc. Do not succumb to the temptation to use "lookalike" knuckles from later Mopars, such as 73-up B/R-bodies, F/J/M bodies, etc. These parts, while visually very similar, are taller, altering suspension geometry (camber change, bump steer, etc.), and possibly forcing the ball joints beyond their designed range, a/k/a “over angling”. Also do not swap the knuckles side-to-side to mount the caliper toward the rear, this causes brake hose routing difficulties. While the correct mounting avoids these problems, on some cars you may encounter swaybar-to-caliper interference. We suggest dealing with that via other methods, described later. Using the correct knuckle avoids any of these potential pitfalls, and results in a "factory engineered" installation. Hey, Chrysler paid those engineers big bucks to get it right, so you might as well take advantage of their knowhow. Plus, we're getting it for free!

This will help you identify the needed ‘74-‘74 E-body / ‘73- ‘76 A-body steering knuckle. Casting numbers are rarely visible, so comparing dimensions is the sure way. Be sure to inspect for spun-bearing damage. Exact, drop-forged steel repros are available from Master Power (see sources.) Do not use the similar, but taller, knuckles from ‘73-up B and F/J/M/R-body cars
!   

And then they show the pic you've posted.

On looking at the willwood instructions for the later kit the cliper mounting braket requires drilling into the spindle, i didnt have to do that. Both kits use different inner bearing, hub assembly, and calliper bracket only, the rest of  kits are identical. Different inner bearings would seem to indicate something different on the spindle shaft.

I also have the Challenger & Barracuda Restoration Guide. I think that has typos too with regards to the rotor sizes. This is what is confusing me, this book says 70-72 had 11.75" mine were smaller like 10.98 which the parts interchange manual says its from 73 or 74 (i'll have to try find some part numbers !!!

As i don't have access to another cuda to look at i have to rely on these books, guys like you and trial and error.
Only thing is an error in braking can be dangerous and expensive.

With everything on there is no play which is good.

If anyone has anything to add please do.
Keith Renouard
1972 Plymouth Ćuda
440 w/ M1 manifold, Holly 770 Steet Avenger
TTI exhaust
best 1/4 ET 13.4 (2005, Santa Pod, UK)
best 1/4 MPH 101.36 (ET 13.984) (31st July 2004, Santa Pod, UK)
G-Tech 0-60MPH = 5.0sec (Santapod 05)
Now i have a 1968 charger too, the collection grows

Offline ShelbyDogg

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 5007
Re: Help, Do i have 70-72 spindles on my 72 or 73 & later
« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2006 - 10:48:46 PM »
Keith, like you said, some of those books are wrong. E-bodies had the 11" rotor. and the bigger 12" (from R bodies) can be used on e-bodies if the caliper brackets are also brought over. Those restoration guides aren't always checked by people that really know their stuff.
Rob
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline keithcuda

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 36
    • Flat Rat Racing
Re: Help, Do i have 70-72 spindles on my 72 or 73 & later
« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2006 - 05:46:54 PM »
Its a shame the publishing companies don't privide a service where by we can download 'errata'. Particularly with technical books.

Anyhow, I finished fitting the front wilwood kit, and it works a treat.
They fit under my 14" wheels too which is a bonus as i don't have to spend a fortune getting new wheels.
Better still i did a trial fit of the wilwood 12.19" rear discs with integrated park brakes into my 15" rear wheels. i have like 2mm over the recommented clearance.
Talk about being lucky.

Went out to test drive and burnish the pads. The first few stops from 5-10mph were scary, the car wouldn't stop, well it did but not fast.
I built up a couple more, then hit the road, round the block. 0-50-0mph a couple of times, letting them cool down in between.
Wow are they good, cant wait to fot the rears now, got the new master cylinder, and brake proportioning valve too.

Any recomendations on line locks, so i can do burnouts? (well its got to be done, and for the drag racing of course)
Keith Renouard
1972 Plymouth Ćuda
440 w/ M1 manifold, Holly 770 Steet Avenger
TTI exhaust
best 1/4 ET 13.4 (2005, Santa Pod, UK)
best 1/4 MPH 101.36 (ET 13.984) (31st July 2004, Santa Pod, UK)
G-Tech 0-60MPH = 5.0sec (Santapod 05)
Now i have a 1968 charger too, the collection grows