Electrical issues, help!

[Jmand]

Hey all, just picked up my baby, a '73 340 cuda and already I need help! She runs like a dream but i'm having some electrical issues. Had a dead battery last saturday, put in a new one and basically ran it into the ground learning my alternator was shot. Just put in a new alternator, replaced all the belts and I'm still running on the battery only! I can get her goin with a jump but within 15 minutes shes dead as a doornail. My gauge is right below half, on the - side, heading even further down and jumping when i pop on the headlights. So, since I've tackled the alternator, tried different batteries, i'm thinking voltage regulator or maybe a bad connection somewhere? Maybe just need a full charge on my battery? Checked all the grounds and they look good so I'm officially stumped!    Once she dies all I get is the infamous "clicking" ....help?
Thanks in advance

[OUTLAW]

I recommend replacing the voltage regulator anytime you replace the alt.

[RusTy/SE]

  A telltale sign will be it's 'jell' in back showing signs of melting...

[Bullitt-]

It very well could be a bad Voltage Regulator but make sure your engine to body ground strap is in place and secure. This is a braded stainless cable that attaches to the right rear valve cover & to the body close to the regulator.  Check for corrosion here.  Also the regulator bolts need to be tight. If they won't tighten up you can remove the cowl screen & put nuts behind. Check for corrosion here. If by chance the original Carb. w/fast idle solenoid is still there check the wire to the alternator, you can just remove & replace the wiring harness wire back where it came off.   I picked up a new reg at Oreilly for 12 bucks. New OEs avail. from Summit Racing for around 30+9.5 shipping Good luck!
 

[Jmand]

Thanks for the replies! Just got off work and am headed out for another go! Going to re-check the ground and if thats lookin good, replace the regulator. Here's hopin' 

[ShelbyDogg]

Put a voltmeter on the battery while running, is it below 14v?  Now hook a jumper cable between the Alternator charge wire and the Positive battery cable. Does it show above 14v now?  By Jumper cable, I mean a big wire (10) OR a real jumper cable as in JUMPER CABLES to start your car.

Rob

[basement]

Maybe this will help also. I had a similiar problem on my ford truck. Fully charged when I'd get home from work at night. But would go out in the morning to a dead bat. Found that without the key turned to Accessory I will still pulling about .8 amp. And this is a '84' without any fancy digital radio or digital anything, current draw should have been zero. It was the voltage reg. I think about 4 other people mentioned that already, replace it what the heck. Good luck

[Jmand]

So, after further investigation in the daylight, turns out my voltage reg was not grounded! I grounded it to the firewall, got my battery charged and started her up. Amp guage still less than half and dives to quarter with my headlights on.  Best part, and I'm guesing a big insight into the problem, is that the guage "clicks" back and forth in time with the blinkers! Bad ground, right? I also picked up a new regulator today hoping that will help gettin her healthy again!

[ShelbyDogg]

Try the regulator first, then you need to put a voltmeter on that battery and tell us what you see.   Does your Amp guage EVER show more than "HALF" as you call it?   If Not, it is not charging at all. Put a meter on the battery, then try the jumper wire I suggested above and see if you get more than 14v.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

It sure sounds like the voltage regulator is bad. At least they are relatively cheap to replace. If that doesn't do the trick, then maybe we have an open connection somewhere. Like in the wires going into the regulator, or the field on the alternator. Keep us posted.

  Mike

[ShelbyDogg]

We all know that it's going to end up being that firewall connector.  Every old Mopar owner's time bomb.  Is this your first Mopar Jmand?

[Jmand]

I'm going to give the new regulator a shot this afternoon and if that don't work go the voltmeter route.  Shelbydogg, ya got me worried - yes this is my first mopar...can you fill me in on what sounds like the notorious firewall connector?

[MEK-Dangerfield]

I'm going to give the new regulator a shot this afternoon and if that don't work go the voltmeter route.  Shelbydogg, ya got me worried - yes this is my first mopar...can you fill me in on what sounds like the notorious firewall connector?

Let's hope we don't have to get that far. I shouldn't say this, but I'm one of a few that have bought "new" alternators that didn't work. I'm just quoting someone else here, but this person said there pretty much isn't a new alternator out there. The old ones just get rebuilt and sold again. Hey, that's OK by me, as long as they work. 

  Mike

[ShelbyDogg]

If you look at the connectors going into the Firewall, the thick black wire is from the alternator. If you pop the fuse box off at the 2 clips and look at the backside of the black wire, see if that connection is still making contact.  That's the over amped connector that always melts. The Fix is to drill a hole straight through where that wire is, add a new longer wire all the way through then add a bigger connector ,to connect it to the matching wire on the inside.  That way everything will look "stock" on the engine side.

[Jmand]

Ahhh..much much better!! Turned out to be the regulator and a corroded ground! I had almost forgotten how much I love that car...almost...rough day at work, got her going, took her for a run and now I can't stop smiling! Thank's all of you so much for the help. Now it's time to tackle that strange "whirring" sound under hard acceleration!