Author Topic: Is there any reason, that an E-body wouldn't be a good handling car?  (Read 12926 times)

Offline Sukhoi

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With properly tuned suspension parts, good tires, and good brakes, Is there any critical flaw in the E-body's suspension geometry/weight balance that just makes it a bad handling car?

I come from the ricey side of the tracks, so of course I've always heard the whole 
"muscle cars don't handle well" tripe.

So, is this a genuine factor of the geometry and balance of the car? or is it just from inferior suspension components?

Now i love the way my challenger handles, but i'd like to have a car that really handles curves well, and not having to get a new car would be preferrable.





Offline Carlwalski

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I'm staying out of this one.... :lol2:
1970 Dodge Challenger R/T
White, License Plate, 0A-5599
540ci Aluminium Hemi, F.A.S.T EFI
TF-727 Gear Vendor OD, Dana 60

Offline willhaven

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Leaf springs. Overall weight. Weight balance.

Those would be my top three guesses.

Offline Bullitt-

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I think good handling is too subjective. You have to look at overall weight, that big heavy motor in the front with a relatively light rear end. It's never gonna out handle a Porsche or even a GTA but could probably give a Vette a hard time w/nice big meats & really good shocks. Just my  :2cents: PEACE  :bigshades:
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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Offline Hopalong

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They can be made to handle quite well if you are will to put some time, thought, and money into it.  There are more aftermarket kits out there now, and the factory stuff isn't all that bad if the right parts are used.  The factory stuff isn't the greatest, but it can do the job.  Check out the Green Brick built by Mopar Action.  They used all factory stuff and whooped on vettes and vipers in the One Lap of America race a few years back.  Old mopars were never well known for their handling abillities, but there is a reason that most police agencies used mopars for their fleets. 
{oo/===\oo}

Offline dwbiggs

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Quote
but there is a reason that most police agencies used mopars for their fleets

Yeah...because they were cheaper to buy.   :grinyes:

Dan

1974 Challenger Rallye - 440+.040, 0 decked, 10.5:1, Ross Pistons, Hughes 3844 cam (238/244, .536/.540), Eddy RPM manifold, Eddy aluminum heads, Holley 750, TTI headers, .96" T-bars, IAS shocks, 1 1/8" front sway bar, 3/4" rear sway bar, XHD 6 leaf springs, Firm Feel stage 2 steering box.

Offline Street_Challenged73

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I'd say you could get your Challenger to handle very well, considering they're 32+ years old...The whole idea of getting to that point of a nice curve handler can be produced two different ways:
a) Purchase an Alter-K-tion or other coil-over shock setup along with rack & pinion steering, but pay a premium...

Or

b) Improve upon the original K-frame and suspension components, which will save you quite a bit in the long-run and provide a comparative advantage to the much more expensive setups.  As you may know, quite a few different steel components can deflect under hard cornering and throw off the suspension geometry during that time.  One way to correct this is purchase the LCA (lower control arm) gusset/boxing kit.  When completely welded up, the LCA has less of a chance to flex and therefore won't throw off the geometry.  Another way to help in cornering is to increase your torsion bar size to allow for harder turns with less 'mush'.  If you wanted to use the original UCA's, you can purchase offset upper control arm bushings that will allow you to get more positive caster, or if you wanted to, purchase a set of tubular UCA's with heim joints that will allow you to really dial in the caster.  Another possible way to help out is purchasing the larger strut rod bars to either replace your old bent ones or just to get better deflection off them.  The tie rod ends have been known to be rather insufficient, considering the weight of the car.  One way to fix this is purchase a set of 11/16" tie rod ends (from C-body MoPars) and either use their adjusting sleeves or step up to the solid adjuster Mancini Racing or any other race shop carries.  Again, deflection is limited by stepping up to these, rather than using the smaller 9/16" tie rod ends. 
Hopefully this helps you out any.  I'd know the direct effect of all these things mentioned in part B, but I haven't gotten around to assembling all my parts yet. (still need some areas that were covered by the suspension cleaned & repainted.) ::)
1973 Dodge Challenger......................The ongoing project. (00/----\00)
1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo....The sunny day cruiser (RTBoost)
1990 Toyota Celica GT Liftback...........The new daily & winter driver.
All-American Muscle: 'Cudas and Challengers...Still the Elite and always will be.

                                                                                             
                 
Street_Challenged73 from Wisconsin

Offline zerfetzen

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Hi Street Challened, I was looking into this too, and think I found upper control arms at firmfeel, but don't remember seeing any lower control arms.  Do you know where they sell those?  Thanks.

Offline Street_Challenged73

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Hi Street Challened, I was looking into this too, and think I found upper control arms at firmfeel, but don't remember seeing any lower control arms.  Do you know where they sell those?  Thanks.
Without purchasing a complete K-frame assembly through Alter-K-tion or any other place, I haven't seen the LCA's listed. (they would require modification to the original K-frame if you were looking into buying some A-arm style LCA.  If you're looking for original-style LCA's, they don't reproduce them to my knowledge.  Just search for a used set that doesn't have any problems. (usually the sway bar bracket is messed up or they're a little bent up.)
1973 Dodge Challenger......................The ongoing project. (00/----\00)
1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo....The sunny day cruiser (RTBoost)
1990 Toyota Celica GT Liftback...........The new daily & winter driver.
All-American Muscle: 'Cudas and Challengers...Still the Elite and always will be.

                                                                                             
                 
Street_Challenged73 from Wisconsin

Offline Super Blue 72

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With properly tuned suspension parts, good tires, and good brakes, Is there any critical flaw in the E-body's suspension geometry/weight balance that just makes it a bad handling car?

I come from the ricey side of the tracks, so of course I've always heard the whole 
"muscle cars don't handle well" tripe.


I been to the ricey side of the world and can identify with a nice handling car. 

I don't think that E-Bodies have any particular critical flaw that is inherent to thier design but just the fact that you're dealing with 30+ year old technology, heavier weight, big engine in front, and not too favorable front to rear balance gives a bit of an edge to rice versus ebody/muscle car.

These guys gave some great ideas and if you like the "corner carver" type muscle car take a look at how some Mopars are set up in some issues of Popular Hot Rodding.  They like the G-Machine type of car.  It's just a matter of how much $$$ you want to put into the car.   Keep in mind that the AAR Cudas and Challenger T/As were used in Tran-American racing with some success.

Check this link to get a flovar of some of thier cars: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

Pic #2 and 3 of my ARII 1/24 scale model car 

Phil in New England-Massachusetts  Always thank God for what you have!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/456046/1972-dodge-challenger

Offline Sukhoi

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Thanks all-

I'm afraid I'm still a little phobic about messing around with the suspension components myself, so i'm checking out the Alter-K-tion kit.

And Super Blue 72- I know what you mean, I sold a Mazda RX-8 6-spd to free up finances to buy the challenger. That was a very tight handling car.

daves70

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I don't know how to answer that, but I can tell you with my car going down the hi-way at 55 and kicking in the SIXPACK, the power steering is so, I don't know how to describe it but you guys will know what I'm talking about, It is VERY easy to over-correct and get into trouble. I can't imagine driving 150 mph. If I were drag racing, I would do away with the power steering. :grinyes:

Offline willhaven

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I hear that the newer Hemi engines (the 5.7 and 6.1) are smaller and lighter than big blocks, but provide the power we all want. If you used one of those and set the engine back into the firewall, you could also help correct the balance that way as well.

As far as I know, the guys who did the V10 Viper engine conversions all had to push the firewall back. I guess if you REALLY wanted awesome weight balance, you could do engine setback eventhough you weren't technically forced to for space reasons.

If I did a new Hemi swap, I'd probably consider it.

Offline Super Blue 72

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And Super Blue 72- I know what you mean, I sold a Mazda RX-8 6-spd to free up finances to buy the challenger. That was a very tight handling car.

Yeah, you lose some in the handling department but that RX-8 could be parked next to the Challenger, on fire, and people would still pay more attention to the Challenger because it's more unique.  (No offense to RX-8s!)

It all depends what flips your cookie.  :)
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

Pic #2 and 3 of my ARII 1/24 scale model car 

Phil in New England-Massachusetts  Always thank God for what you have!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/456046/1972-dodge-challenger

Offline Robb

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.

Check this link to get a flovar of some of thier cars: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/



Looks like Popular Hotrodding needs some editorial control   :bricks1: :roflsmiley: :newbie: :sadwavey: :1zhelp:


Matt Delaney's 1970 Plymouth Road Runner is ready for the road ahead
Now that Matt had a great-looking paperweight, it was time to turn it all into one cool form of transport. To get the whole deal rolling, Matt started with the suspension and chassis. The welded-in subframe connectors stiffen up the chassis while super-stock Mopar front and rear springs drop the car an inch. Other suspension and steering modifications include 0.92-inch torsion bars and aluminum strut rod and tie rod sleeves.


then:

Bobby Alloway's '70 Challenger turned heads at this year's Street Machine of the Year competition in Columbus, Ohio

Chrysler Corporation execs introduced catchy colors in 1970, such as Plum Crazy, Sublime, and Go-Mango, but this one wore Panther Pink. It was a single four-barrel, 340 R/T that was in decent shape with the nickname "She Devil" lettered at the top of the windshield (more on that later).

70 Challenger SE  (440 SIX PACK / Keisler 5 speed, R/T SE replication)       68 Sport Satellite Convertible 383 Super Commando / 727  Survivor

2002 Trans AM WS6 convertible:  DD
1999 4Runner 4x4:  lifted-locked-armored  expedition vehicle
1990 Jeep XJ 4x4:  Front Dana 60, GM-14bolt rear, 3 link, 4link, 5.38 detroits, beadlocked 40's, stretched to 110" wb  Rock Crawler