Keisler "fitment issues" dont seem to be a problem on the e-bodies. I read alot of the threads your referring to as well as performed the swap myself (All by myself actually)
The conversion from auto to Manual was "some work" but I wouldnt call it alot of work. If you are keeping the same motor it is pretty straight forward. I do recommend pulling the tranny and motor out of the car and putting them back in as a unit, to do things easier.
I saw this somewhere else. Thought I would share it.
Hello, is anyone else out there having problems fitting Keisler tko500 transmissions in their vehichles? I've been tryin to fit one in my 71 Duster for some time now. Let me tell you about my problems.
Started out first with the hydralic throw out bearing clearance being over a half inch off. Called tech guys and they told them what shims I needed. They sent out what they thought I needed, recieved it about a month later and of coarse clearance measurement was still wrong. Called them again and told them what I needed. Couple or 3 weeks later got another shipment of shims. Finally with 3 sets of shims now I was able to mix and match to come up with the desired 1/8" to 1/4" freeplay. Had to buy a longer mounting bolt for the deal because it's now shimmed out so far.
Then when I tried to install the trans it hit the torsion bar crossmember. Tech guys said they've heard of having to cut the crossmember lip but not the crossmember before. I ended up grinding/massaging a bit on crossmember, back of trans cover plate, and cutting the lip. Then with prybars on motor mounts pryed engine forward as I jacked trans into place. It went it! But I can clearly see where the notch in the trans and the crossmember line up is probably a half to an inch off the mark. The trans is riding right against the crossmember and it's got the whole drive train pushed forward. Which of coarse creates a chain reaction of other problems.
Now original fan has about a 1/4" between the radiator. Can't find an electric fan that fits in that little area either. So I had to go with a pusher fan instead of a puller which is about 80% efficiant.
Steering hits headers now. Had to make some pretty good clearance dents in headers if I planned on making any right turns.
Speedometer cable looks like it will clear, all though it's making a pretty sharp turn out from under the crossmember. Speed sensor on the right side got crushed because everything is sittin under the torsion bar crossmember instead of in front of it, like it's supposed too. Keisler did send a new speed sensor, free of charge. But actually I don't even need that because I'm running a traditional carb, instead of EFI.
Not to mention my weight ratio all out of whack with the drivetrain sitting forward like that.
I guess my next step is taking the trans back out and notching the crossmember. Then welding in a concave support piece. That would entale buying a new welder that could penetrate more than just sheetmetal, like the one I have. And finding/towing it to a shop to work on it at that has a decent electrical system. The little sheetmetal welder I got kicks the breaker every 10 seconds or so at the house.
The bottom line is this transmission is being advertised and touted as the "perfect fit" bolt in replacement transmission. And from the experience I've had, it is anything but that. For as much money as I've spent on the whole automatic to standard kit: trans, clutch, flywheel, bellhousing, pedals, shifter, hydralic kit ($5000) it [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] well should be!
Tech guys at Keisler haven't been too much help either. I've called a few times and emailed quite a few times. Mostly what I get is "good luck" or "sorry to hear your having trouble", if any response at all. Starting to just get the "blow-off" it seems. Last guy mentioned if the car doesn't have the original k-frame that they've heard of install problems. I have a 73 Duster k-frame in mine to utilize the spool type motor mounts and disc brakes. I asked the tech guys if there was a different kit for 71 as opposed to 73 Duster? They said no only one kit for 64 to 76 A-body. Which is my thinking: an A-body is a A-body! I told him this didn't make any sense, as long as I use a k-frame from a 64 to 76 A-body then it should be the same right? Never got a response from that email.
I got urethane motor mounts, trans mount, and a torque stap on it, figured it shouldn't wear against the crossmember too much, with all that. I went ahead and took measurements and ordered the driveline, becasue I'm just about fed up with this project. I just want to drive the car. It hasn't been on the road in 7 years, plus the 6 months or so I've wasted on this transmission change over. I really hope this transmission operates better than it fits.
I'm not an ASE certified mechanic, but I have worked as a mechanic for a fleet department. Working on ambulances and fire trucks. Plus my dad had me out there workin on/restoring old cars with him since I was a young boy. I am a fabricator/machinist by trade, now making airplane parts for a living. I am by no means an expert, but I would definately say I'm not an idiot trying to tackle a job that's over his head, making stupid mistakes, or don't have a clue what I'm doing here.
I will say the pedals and hydraulic kit seemed to install pretty smooth. And the pistol grip shifter is cool as hell. But, I really wish I would of took that 5 grand and either stayed with the automatic or gathered up an original 4 speed set-up.
Does anyone out there have any similar problems, solutions, or have any luck fitting one of these transmissions in an A-body or any other body type? Thanks -Ray
