Author Topic: 4-speed swap/shifter lever question (Read 1389 times)

71chmark · « **on:** May 13, 2006 - 06:36:31 AM »

One of the tran mounting holes on my 440 aluminum bellhousing was stripped, redrilled for a larger bolt and restripped when I bought it. I could helicoil it fo the larger hole or take it to a shop and have it fixed or ? any suggestions? I don't have any special skills beyond wrenching. I am considering a lakewood for safety. Does anyone think this is neccessary for a mildly built 440? Dialing it in doesn't look to hard.

Started my 4-speed conversion in the 71CH. took about 3 hours to swap out the pedal assemblies and was fairly simple. Can't wait to cutout the floor.

1BADFISH� · « **Reply #1 on:** May 13, 2006 - 08:41:23 AM »

Wow, I would love to have all them goodies sitting in my garage!

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #2 on:** May 13, 2006 - 10:59:41 AM »

check into using a timesert
it may be thick enough to fix the stripped hole in your belhousing
a steel flywheel is a good safety idea but if you are not racing it you should have no problems with the stock parts

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #3 on:** May 13, 2006 - 08:31:37 PM »

Are you saying that it's too big to repair it with a helicoil? You need to try and fix it now while it is out. You should have all four bolts holding that tranny in. Get a helicoil kit and see how close it is. One of my bellhousings has 3 holes fixed with heli-coil inserts. Put as many as you can stacked into the hole, then grind off any sticking out pieces. Then Stick the longest bolt that you can in there without bottoming out.
Rob

Robb · « **Reply #4 on:** May 14, 2006 - 12:09:41 PM »

If a helicoil can work, go for it. Itll be strong. Airplanes rely on these

Ive seen a couple of projects for sale lately where somebody had started a conversion and got a little too wild with the cutter,

For anyone out there thinking about doing this swap, you only need cut the floor sheet metal for the tranny hump, dont cut throught the crossmember, cut around it.

this is all you need to cut and it will look like this when youre ready to put in the tranny hump .

71chmark · « **Reply #5 on:** May 14, 2006 - 12:38:29 PM »

Thanks so much. I was wondering how I was going to do that. Will that piece left in interfere with the linkage any? What did you use to cut the floor? I plan on using a sawsall.

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #6 on:** May 14, 2006 - 02:00:45 PM »

You Can use a sawsall but I don`t recommend it , the piece you see in the picture is the trans crossmember & cannot be cut into as it aslo supports the torsion bars , the shift rods go between the crossmember & the floor panel/ hump you are installing , do the same as in the picture mark around the hump with a marker & cut 1-2" inside that line & trim as nessisary , I use an angle grinder with a thin cut disc to cut the floor , grind the sheet metal away from the spot welds as well & if it starts to cut hard Stop, as you are probably cutting more than just the sheet metal

Robb · « **Reply #7 on:** May 14, 2006 - 03:44:04 PM »

Just Like CP told you there.......

I used an air cut-off tool with the 2-3inch cutting/grinding wheel to remove the auto tranny bracketry spot welds ( save in case you ever want to go back to auto or you can sell on eBay )

I used a sawzall for about 1/2 the cutting through the floor panel. Some angles you just cant get the sawzall in the right spot. Go slow, dont be in a hurry, measure twice, cut once. Stop and check from both top and bottom.

one difference you will see from my pic is that I cut alot more on the Passenger side of the hump, beyond the boundaries of tranny hump. This was necessary for the Keisler, but is not for a 4 speed.

71chmark · « **Reply #8 on:** May 19, 2006 - 10:19:51 AM »

Shifter levers have 2 holes. Upper and lower (see picture above). I assume using the lower would shorten the throw. Anyone have experience or preference?

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #9 on:** May 19, 2006 - 10:36:34 AM »

The 3 hole levers were available at the dealers in the 70s. I bought a set after I read about them in the direct connection bulletins that later became the DC Manual. Using the lower hole shortents the shifter throw. Use them.

Rob

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #10 on:** May 19, 2006 - 02:04:14 PM »

I always use the lower hole to shorten the shift throw

Author Topic: 4-speed swap/shifter lever question (Read 1389 times)

71chmark

4-speed swap/shifter lever question

1BADFISH�

Re: Bellhousing question/ 4-speed swap

Chryco Psycho

Re: Bellhousing question/ 4-speed swap

ShelbyDogg

Re: Bellhousing question/ 4-speed swap

Robb

Re: Bellhousing question/ 4-speed swap

71chmark

Re: Bellhousing question/ 4-speed swap

Chryco Psycho

Re: Bellhousing question/ 4-speed swap

Robb

Re: Bellhousing question/ 4-speed swap

71chmark

Re: 4-speed swap

ShelbyDogg

Re: 4-speed swap/shifter lever question

Chryco Psycho

Re: 4-speed swap/shifter lever question