4 spd linkage question

[madness]

i am using a mcloud b&b clutch set up there needs to be 1/8 air gap between throw out & presure plate fingers if i do that i have no clutch so its rideing on the fingers to have any pressure you can hear it do i have a wrong pedal to z bar rod lenght or a ajustment rod this is a small block is there diffrent lenghts with the 1/8 gap the over center spring stays 1/2 ways down with the throw out ajusted tight its ok i am using a 5 spd now but it was the same thing with the 833 something is not right

[Chryco Psycho]

it is not a rod length problem as you can adjust out the slack & get to zero clearance between th ethrow out & clutch fingers , you are simply not getting enough travel which really comes down to the length of the levers welded to the Z bar , you either need to shorten the length of the upper lever from the pedal or lengthen the lever at the bottom where it pushed th eadjuster rod & connects to the fork 
 I ma not usre why it is mismatched possibly th epedal is not stock & has a shorter throw , but modifiying the Z bar will fix it
 I read that Sox had modified the Z bar on his race cars to decrease the pedal travel to disengage the clutch to increase the speed the clutch could be released 

[ShelbyDogg]

You need to get that bearing off of the fingers when the clutch isn't pushed in or the bearing will start howling.    Is the clutch fork pivot tight? That metal bracket should sit tightly in the fork groove.
I've had to drill off the rivets, bend the clip, then bolt it back on with tiny screws and locknuts.

Send up a pic of your clutch linkage.

Rob

[madness]

thanks for the reply the fork seems to be right i went from a diaphram plate to a BB plate same thing somethings wrong pedeals came from tonys i think other parts came from brewers the pedals look to be ok how bout the rod from pedal to z bar do the lenghts change from small block to big block

[ShelbyDogg]

Same pedal to z-bar rod length, Small or big block.    The only difference is the location where the arm is welded on the end of the z-bar. One is a little closer to the end. You need to look at another 4-speed car to see what isn't correct on your car, since you pieced it together.
Rod length big or small block is 15" tip to tip.

Do you have the spring between the clutch fork and the bellhousing?
Rob

[madness]

yes i do have the spring from the fork to the bell it must be the z bar do small block and big use the same z bar or in the same location

[ShelbyDogg]

The Small block and Big block CAN use the same Z-bar.  The alignment is a little off on the end, so you would use and angled adjuster rod on the z-bar to fork.  The angles of the welded brackets on both z-bars are the same.

Were you using the same pressure plate on the 833 and the 5-speed? 

[madness]

no when i went from diaphram to B&B i got a new pressure plate witch i think is the same

[ShelbyDogg]

You need to look at another e-body and compare your linkage to theirs.

[madness]

yes ur right i went to the track today only saw autos might be awile thanks for the help i will figure it out soon i am wireing a msd dist and box right now will go back to linkage soon

[madness]

this one has got me i can not get enough travel out of this clutch to make it work i have moved the arms on the z bar foward and back top and bottom the pedal fits right little bit higher then brake has not been modified if i ajust throw out off the pressure plate where it should be it stays to the floor take the slack out still not as much pedal as i would like and the throw is tight on the pressure plate just cant seem to get it some where in the middle throw out fork looks to be right z bar mounts right pedal rod is 15 inchs new clutch parts same problem with last clutch what gives here

[Chryco Psycho]

adjust the clutch so you have 1/2 of free travel at the top of the pedal & the overcenter sprting returns the pedal to the top , will the clutch release now , is the fork binding on the belhousing to prevent full travel?

[madness]

thanks chryco for trying to help not sure i under stand ur answer i dad the clutch ajusted as loose as possible to try to keep bearing off pressure plate so it was not grinding gears but the pedal was starting  not return all the ways up on its own the over the center i would pull it up with my foot if i try to ajust it tighter the bearing is on pressure plate clutch works fine u can hear the bearing and see from the bottom of trans the fork seams to be fine maybe little loose or the fork keeper not to bad the fork ajester with the clutch out was at a angle that it would bind take that off its fine ive rewelded the z bar  in diffrent position so many times i will order a nother one from brewers i see he has diffrent years and body stilles is it possible i got the wrong one to start with will the wrong one fit i keep coming back to the z bar that has everthing to do with travel u wont want the pedal up any more it cant go down any more the rods right

[ShelbyDogg]

When my clutch pedal is up, my bearing is not touching the PP fingers. There is a TINY air gap between the bearing and fingers.   The way I had to get that setup: 1, Had to make sure throwout bearing clips are tight on clutch fork. 2, Had to make sure clutch fork is very tight on bellhousing pivot. 3, have to have 4 good nylon bushings and grease in Z-bar. 

If all this is good, pressure plate should push clutch pedal back up till over-center spring pulls pedal the rest of the way.

Send me a round trip ticket from St. Louis and I'll fix it for you in 30 minutes and $50.

Rob

[madness]

everythings good maybe the fork can be tighter on the clip will that make that much diff just talked to brewers he is thinkin wrong fork said go to his web site to compair parts if its the fork that means pulling the trans maybe ill send the ticket to sacramento