WE HAVE BOTTOM!!!

[RusTy/SE]

Sometimes I start it, and idle is really high, then I blip the throttle, and it calms down to 'normal'.

My Coronet R/T had that exact problem although it was constant; touching the throttle whether idling in P/N or driving would require a blip on the throtle to bring the rpm's down...a stiffer return spring going to the accelerator linkage immediately cured it. It may not be your answer but just in case...

Russ

[challenger72rt]

ok!!  I just got back into town, and had a quick peak under the hood...and noticed that I have NO WOT!!

If you look at the blurry pics, you see...

#1) linkage sittin there

2) linkage pulled all the way back, travels over a full inch before touching throttle on carb

3) linkage pulled as far back on the throttle as it'll go, 5/8th of an inch!!!

4) manually pulling the throttle all the way open, travelling a full 3" !!!!!!!

clearly the linkage is not pulling back on the throttle, and I don't have bottom, cuz I'm only using 1/4 of my throttle!!

the pics after show my set up.  what's wrong with this picture??!!  I need to fix this by Friday night, to be ready for Saturday Track day...anybody have a cure for this?

please help!

[ShelbyDogg]

1st of all; It looks like you are not pulling the throttle open all the way because the cable anchor needs to be pulled back then tightened down.   The throttle pressure rod should have a spring on it pulling it forward at all times and moves back when the throttle itself pushes it back. You do not need the throttle pressure linkage if you installed a manual valve body or installed a shift kit where the instruction say that you can remove it.

Second very important thing,  That type of throttle pressure linkage, when used with a higher than stock manifold, WILL GO OVER CENTER AND STICK YOUR THROTTLE TO THE FLOOR.    You need to check this very carefully and check it at WOT.  Make sure that it doesn't stick. ( I found out on my car while driving on a city street!) I see that you have installed an aftermarket manifold.

To adjust the cable correctly, Loosen the 7/16 headed bolt holding the cable clamp, pull it to the rear till the slack is gone, then tighten the bolt back up.

Rob

[Robb]

1st of all; It looks like you are pulling the throttle open with the throttle pressure rod!  The throttle arm should be pulled directly by the throttle cable.   The throttle pressure rod should have a spring on it pulling it frward at all times and moves back when the throttle itself pushes it back, NOT the other way around.

Second very important thing,  That type of throttle pressure linkage, when used with a higher than stock manifold, WILL GO OVER CENTER AND STICK YOUR THROTTLE TO THE FLOOR.    You need to check this very carefully and check it at WOT.  Make sure that it doesn't stick. ( I found out on my car while driving on a city street!)

Do you know how the cable should hook up correctly?

Rob

 

it looks like your using the throttle tranny-kickdown lever as the carb linkage. 

that cable should be going right to the carb and the pedal should have no slack.

DEFINITELY be aware of how far that carb is opening when your foot is to the floor, I had a scary episode like Shelbydogg did when my throttle stuck open on a city street too. 



Instead of hurrying/worrying to get to the racetrack, I would recommend that you spend a little more time doing some functional and safety checks of the car.     


below I have included how the cables all connected when I had my 2bbl 383 and the tranny was still an auto.  There is an extra throttle cable for the cruise control on mine in this pic

[ShelbyDogg]

I modified my post above a little because I looked at the blurry pics again and saw the cable hooked to the shaft.

That little spring in the last picture should go FORWARD.  Between the ARM HOLE and the FRONT SPRING BRACKET.

[Robb]

I think an overhead shot that isnt blurry might help.   

[ShelbyDogg]

Well,  Here I am drawing again.   Move and hook up as in the funky pic. Throttle cable hooks to shaft on the inside of the arm and trans pressure is on the shaft, outside of the arm.
  AND make sure you check for the over center at WOT.  Good luck,

Rob

[challenger72rt]

thanks guys...actually, while you were drawing this, I was in the garage lookin at where I went wrong, and attended to it...the first pics show how slack it was, the last one is it more tightened up...does it look pulled back enuff?

[ShelbyDogg]

Look a my pic again, I mooded it.   Move your springs.
Pull the cable enough to get your carb to go WOT.  If you go more than that, if you don't put in a stop, can bend your throttle linkage.

[Robb]

shelbydogg,

are you "for sure - for sure" about that "red" spring being located in the front ?   I added a pic to my first post for reference .
The red spring on his certainly doenst look like its under any tension, but I would think there should be more tension than what we are seeing.





In your drawing I do like how you have double "black" springs on the front though for safety.   

 

[ShelbyDogg]

Move big black springs to center of cable puller.  

[ShelbyDogg]

Oops you're right.   Leave the red spring there, It does the same thing there and doesn't stretch as much.

[ShelbyDogg]

You'll probably have to adjust your throttle pressure linkage next to get that gap closed up. You trans probably shifts way too soon.  Right?  That arm should be adjusted so it is all the way forward.

Robb, I see that too.  If he doesn't get enough tension to keep that arm parked forward, he'll have to move it to my spot.

Hey, I see a second hole on that ARM, move it to the rear hole. That should close up the gap.

[Bullitt-]

Just an observation but the rod ? the yellow arrow point to appears to not be aligned very well.  Could it bind on the pivot the black arrow points to? Could the pivot be adjusted picture relative down?     Also, there should be a washer between the clip & rod, left arrow, may keep clip from binding.

[challenger72rt]

good stuff!  I'll try everythin later today, and report on how it helped.  Thanks again!