sanden a/c compressor on smallblock

[miketyler]

Deja-Vu! I just cut mine last night also. Am sending them off today for crimping. I would have considered the Bouchillion solution if I could have kept my March Performance pulleys.

I got my parts from Old Air products and they sent me an adjustable thermostat. I called them on it and they said it should work to my benefit since I was only going to attach the capillary line to the suction tube. They said the optimal position was inserted within the evap coils. My box is already been overhauled and I'm not pulling it back out! 

[Mopar73340]

Looks great GJ.   


MT, I was in the same situation with the evap, that is why I installed the temp probe on the suction line.

[miketyler]

Mopar73340 - are you running 134A? How does it perform for you? I am wrapping up the hard plumbing on the condensor and hope to get my valance, front grille and bumper back on this weekend.

[Mopar73340]

MT, Yes I'm using 134A.  I have not run the sanden setup yet in hot temps with the 134A. I used the 134A with the RV2 the last few years in my other Challenger and it seemed to work about the same as the R12.

[miketyler]

The guys at Old Air told me that the clutch wiring should run like this: AC pwr switch -> tstat-> pressure switch-> compressor. If either the tstat will or pressure switch will kill power to the clutch, what difference would it make? Intuitively I would have thought the pressure switch should have been further up stream and closer to the power source. They explained it but I didn't get it. Can anyone "dumb it down" for me?

[Mopar73340]

I don't see what difference it would make either. It's a series circuit so it should't matter which way it's wired. One switch or the other will break the circuit. On the other hand, if you wire it from the bulkhead, the temp switch is most likely closer and therfore you would hit that one first before the low press switch??  Maybe that's their logic??
Any other suggestions?

[miketyler]

I may call them about that tomorrow to see if they can help me understand. They also said the optimum position for the expansion valve is 45^o down. So that would be 4:00 or 8:00 position. Liquid can form in one that is positioned straight down. Again, not sure I understand all the AC voodoo here but I am going with what they say 

[Mopar73340]

All of the factory one's that I've seen were installed at 9 o'clock facing the firewall from the front. That is how I have mine.

[Mopar73340]

Update, I drove my White car today in 90* heat, using 134A and the cycling switch. The compressor cycled on and off just like it's supposed to. The air felt as cold as my Neon so I guess it's working ok.

MT- I guess there is a reason for the wiring to the t-stat first as my other car (Red one) is not wired that way. Both A/C systems are set up identical (Factory parts & Sanden Comp), but it won't cycle so I'm going to change it around and try again.

[miketyler]

I cant understand it making any difference; I would sooner believe it is an issue with the t-stat switch. The guys at Old Air told me to attach the sense line as close to the evaporator as possible and since the evap was enclosed, make sure it is contacting the suction line good. If you have any air gap that might be contributing. Is the suction line getting nice and cold and sweating up ok?   

[Got JOB]

Finally finished my lines today. Did a little different on the high side by adding an extra port. I was afraid the gauges would not hook with my low and high ports so close together. Think on my vert. I might put the ports in-line where I put the lines together.

[miketyler]

Lookin pretty slick there GJ - got her charged up and pumpin' yet?

[Got JOB]

will try to charge up Wed. or Thur.

[Ravage]

Cheap AND easy 

[miketyler]

Now THAT is waaaayyyy too funny!!! Ck it out, looks like they replaced the original tail light lense with a pair of trailer tail lights. NICE!!!!!