Author Topic: Stroking a 383  (Read 1546 times)

Offline 70RAGTOPR/T

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Stroking a 383
« on: May 29, 2006 - 03:01:56 PM »
Need your opinion.  Which way is better to stroke a 383.  I read in Mopar Muscle (May issue) about building a Stroker 383.  They used a crank from a 413.  Then a read in Chrysler Performance Engines by Frank Adkins that you can stroke a 383 by only changing using 440 rods and special pistons.  Which is better?  I have a 67' 383 crank.  :clueless:

Thanks




Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2006 - 06:03:22 PM »
stroking an engine requires an increase in stroke length , so you need a different crank , , 413 , 426 & 440 cranks are ideal & to maximise potential use the longer 413-440 rods as well with a short custom piston
 a 3.75 stroke crank in a 383 block will give you approx 425 ci & reduce rotating mass by 6-7 lbs 

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Offline 70RAGTOPR/T

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2006 - 07:56:15 AM »
Chryco.....Can the 383 crank be turned to give the same results?

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2006 - 11:53:15 PM »
no , the stroke is 3.38 & there is no way to move the rod throw out to 3.75" 

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Offline 70RAGTOPR/T

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2006 - 07:08:19 AM »
Chryco.....Thanks.  I will buy a used 440 crank from 440source.  It will cost me $175+ s/h compared to $130 to have my 383 crank machined to get the rough spots out.

Again Thanks.

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2006 - 10:07:04 AM »
Why not just use a 400 block with your new 440 crank? It'll look like a 383 but give you 452 CI.   Unless you are trying to keep it numbers matching.

Rob
Rob

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Offline 70RAGTOPR/T

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2006 - 12:21:57 PM »
Shelbydogg....I would put a 400 in but the car is matching numbers.

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2006 - 12:59:47 PM »
Yeah, I figured that.  But why not just pull the 383, wrap it up, then reinstall it when it's time to sell it.  That way you don't risk hurting the original block, while out cruising around. You can't  hurt it if you're not using it. Stroking it also does things to the bores because the rods are installed in different locations other than stock and can affect your next overbore.
If you build another monster motor, you'll have it to move around to different cars.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline Robb

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #8 on: May 31, 2006 - 01:10:48 PM »
Yeah, I figured that.  But why not just pull the 383, wrap it up, then reinstall it when it's time to sell it.  That way you don't risk hurting the original block, while out cruising around. You can't  hurt it if you're not using it. Stroking it also does things to the bores because the rods are installed in different locations other than stock and can affect your next overbore.
If you build another monster motor, you'll have it to move around to different cars.

completely agree.   

once that numbers block is gone, your cars value will take a huge hit,  way more than the cost of a readily available 400 or 383 block.  ounce of prevention = pound of cure.

70 Challenger SE  (440 SIX PACK / Keisler 5 speed, R/T SE replication)       68 Sport Satellite Convertible 383 Super Commando / 727  Survivor

2002 Trans AM WS6 convertible:  DD
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1990 Jeep XJ 4x4:  Front Dana 60, GM-14bolt rear, 3 link, 4link, 5.38 detroits, beadlocked 40's, stretched to 110" wb  Rock Crawler

Offline Killer_Mopar

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #9 on: May 31, 2006 - 01:27:24 PM »
I agree with using the 400 because it looks the same and will create more horsepower. However, if you dont have a 400 block readily available, I see no reason why you cant use your numbers matching 383. If the stroker engine is built correctly then it will wear no differently then if you were to do the same thing on a 383.
70 Challenger R/T SE - The never-ending project........

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #10 on: May 31, 2006 - 01:58:11 PM »
Stock type pistons have the piston pin position offset to one side to avoid piston slap. That is the reason for the forward pointing mark on the piston. If it was centered it wouldn't matter which way it was installed. Some of those stroker piston's pins are centered and may slap and wear the bores affecting the next overbore size. We are tallking building a 100,000 mile motor and not a week-end warrior, correct?
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline 67Vette427

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #11 on: May 31, 2006 - 05:17:03 PM »
If you're going to go through all that go ahead and pull the matching numbers motor and get another 383 or even better the 400. I personally would have reach red line from time to time. I pulled my matching #427 and built a kick ass motor for the vette. My Cuda I never had the matching numbers motor but if I did it would have been swapped out too  :bigsmile:
« Last Edit: May 31, 2006 - 10:28:51 PM by 4cruzin »
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Offline 70RAGTOPR/T

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #12 on: May 31, 2006 - 07:06:36 PM »
 :working:

Thanks all for your advise.  I have a 67' 383 block sitting around.  I'll use that one.  Now I need to go and have it cleaned and honed.

Offline JS27N0B

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Re: Stroking a 383
« Reply #13 on: June 04, 2006 - 08:20:37 PM »
You'll enjoy the extra cubes a 400 block would give you.
1970 Challenger R/T Convertible 383/auto 1 of 516 *now sold after owning for 18yrs
2007 Chrysler Aspen Limited AWD
2013 Tige' RZR 343hp
2016 PCP Challenger SRT Hellcat