There's a few small differences. The stroke is bigger, the mains are bigger on RBs. That's probably the easiest way. Arrive with a vernier caliper, and measure the mains. That way, you know if it's been turned too. 2.75" is R/B, and will be 3.75" stroke, have 6 bolts in the rear flange, and can be cast or forged. CAst will have "440" cast into them, and be a duller greyish/brown if dirty. Forged will have a wide parting line (where the 2 halves of the original mold came together) and the counterweights will be a brighter silver, even when a little grungy. B will have 2.625" mains, and will be 3.37 stroke, 6 bolt rears, and either be forged (383 versions) or cast (will say "400" on it, and be larger counterweights). 8 bolt RB's do exist..Hemis came with them, as did early 413s. IMO, stay away from anything turned undersize, that has a mark on it anywhere, and stay away from used fueler and hemi cranks. If you have to pay more than $175 for a forged unit, rethink the purcahse. If you are building a 440, you can always use a cast crank, but any stroker should go forged for balancing and fit issues. Cast 440 cranks are cheap. Like $50 cheap, but may cost more to balance (hence th no stroker deal...)