There is a big difference between the 71, and the 72. For towing, the sweptline trucks, (61-71) are ok. (They all have a solid front axle, you either love em or hate em) The 65 1/2's and up have a longer wheelbase than the 65 1/2's and down, you can tell the difference between them by the full width tailgate. The older (shorter WB) trucks don't have the widegate. Being that the body is the same, but the WB is shorter, the older trucks don't pull as nice as the newer ones because the hitch is farther from the real axle. Tougue weight is real sensitive on these, not to mention trailer desighn.
The best towing swepts, would be some of the 68's, and 69-71. Reason is, these got a front swaybar, and different spring rates. They ride better, and handle real nice, I prefer the swaybar straight axle to the newer ind trucks, personally.
As far as brakes, in stock form, the swepts have uh, kinda decent brakes, real good, for drums, but they lack the discs that most 72+ trucks have. My 69 Swept, and my 71 both have 12x2 1/2's on all four corners, and I NEVER had a brake problem, the rears like to lock up when braking hard though, they come on the same, front to back, which is great with weight in the back, but light can be interseting in a panic stop. The body on the 71- trucks is a hell of a lot stronger, and more rigid, they sit about the same, minus the steering wheel. Kinda in your lap on the swepts, but short guys like me don't mind! Finding power steering is a pain too, on the 71-, I rather not have it, but sometimes.........it sure would be nice.
Oh, I LOVE the simple guages and dash layout of the 68-71's too, simple, and reliable. The first thing to look at, on the 71-'s, is the floor, it is the weakest part of the body, as far as rust goes. It is flat, unlike the early chevs, so reaplcing it is pretty easy, but there is a place in the front of the cab mount, at the back of the front tire, with a 1 1/4" body plug in it, if this is gone, it will be a PITA to fix! Plus the cab will want to sag in the middle.
Not a big deal, but look at the wiring on th back of the fusebox, sometimes the main power wire connection is burnt, and, BTW, without a relay, never put an alternator bigger than 40A on one of these, or you will fry the red power wire, LOL, don't ask me how I know. I usually put an extra jmper wire there, so I don't have to get out and wiggle it at a stoplight in the rain.
Check to see if the seat mounts are cracked, where it is welded to the floor.
King pin wear, they are repalcable, but you may be looking for a ready to drive truck.
Top shock bolt, they usually at least once, get loose and beat the poo out of the hole. The mount off of the frame is just a piece of angle iron anyway, easy to build, and replace.
Steering box play, and look to see if it has been leaking, most do, and have been dry for twenty years, LOL.
The steering column is another loosey part, the turn signal switch/bearing/shifter gets all wore, and is a PITA to get right!
Pull the plugs out of the firewall, and see if they are full of leaves! If so, look for rust starting on the bodyline, right above the top of the fender, below the windshield, you can see where moisture can pile up in there.
Other than that, I think you are good. Oh, dana 60/70 thing, if you do get one, put a pin/spider kit in it right away, the spider pin is held in by a little roll pin, and when it gets loose, it breaks the roll pin, and comes out and kisses the pinion gear.
For fear of sounding anti-mopar, I will not comment too much on the 72-93 trucks, other than if you can find one with a good tight body, and untouched/burnt fusebox/heater switch'es, it is a damn good truck, for a tin can................
