Axle Issues

[ChallengerHK]

I mentioned a while back that I'm getting a metal-on-metal sound when turning right. Tonight, while I was waiting for some primer to dry, I jacked her up and took off the right rear wheel, fully expecting to find some brake component loose and dragging against the drum.

All the brake hardware looked like it was where it belonged. There was grease all over, and I just noticed a leak from the center section.

This is making no sense to me  . If the axle is low of lube, and the diff isn't getting enough slick to keep it from making awful noises ... wouldn't it do the same thing whether I turned right or left?

[Bullitt-]

Must be a NASCAR model, Just keep turning left & everything will be OK.    


                                                       













May have a bad right wheel/axle bearing.

[Chryco Psycho]

Nascar model !!!
 you probably have a failed axle brg & it has also taken out the axle seal allowing the oil to leak out
you will need to replace the brg & seals & clean or replce the brakes , if the brake pads are saturated with oil you will need to replace them or they will grab badly

[ChallengerHK]

Can I pull this axle and put it on eBay as the "Rare NASCAR option"? 

I've got a 3.55 posi waiting for me, and the money to buy things like new leaf springs for a simultaneous install, in the next state northward. I hate to put money into this axle, but from the sounds its making I don't have a choice.

[MyMopar]

if the brake pads are saturated with oil you will need to replace them or they will grab badly

I can attest to that.  Something I never knew, but my right side seal had failed and the shoes were soaked.  I would think about tapping the brake and the car would stop.

[tactransman]

I can attest to that.  Something I never knew, but my right side seal had failed and the shoes were soaked.  I would think about tapping the brake and the car would stop.

That's when you get teeth marks in the steering wheel.  

[ChallengerHK]

The shoes were definitely well-infused with lube,and they also looked poorly adjusted. I'm guessing that what's going on is that they're not really engaging right now at all.

I'm working in an apartment parking lot without benefit of a garage. I've done plenty of brake work, so I don't have an issue there, but after reading the shop manual procedure for replacing the bearing, it looks too involved for a quick fix.

[MyMopar]

Well you have two options that I can see.

1. You can do the axle bearing where you are at.  I'm looking in the book and it does seem to take some time but not that bad, if you have the right tools.

or

2. Remove the shaft and bring it to someone locally. Have them take the old off and put the new on. Just have all the parts you need and bring it on in.  Then when done, just slide the axle back in and bolt it all back together. 

Of course if this is your driver you might need someone else's help in getting the shaft somewhere.

[ChallengerHK]

Thanks for the feedback, MyMopar. Not a driver (at least, not in the last 20 years; hopefully it will reach that status again inthe near future). I'm more concerned about the turnaround time to have someone else do the bearing while it sits on jack stands. Management where I live tends to look the other way on minor repairs, but I think that may cross the line.

On a more positive note, since I might have to go north and get my 3.55 posi, I may go to Carlisle in the process 

[chrisII]

A good time to go to the "green" style rear bearings. being you are working on the right side, the last guy to pull it appart may not have adjusted the preload properly..this will wipe out the inner seal and many times ruin the bearing.. The "green bearing is a straight roller instead of a tapered bearing, so it does not nead to be "preloaded". if you read the manual , adjusting preload can be touchy. also if your houshig is marred up at all you can think you have it right, only to go on a test drive , come back and its loose again.an old guy tought me that without fancy mesuring devices you will want to be able to feel the axle moove in and out slightly by pushing/pulling it. but if you can see it move its too much.also make sure that the left axle is not on the ground when you adjust. the right side is adjusting BOTH bearings.also , is the lock tab there?
     if you have to buy new bearings , it isnt much more expensive to buy the straight bearing or "green" style. when you have the origionals pressed off make sure to mesure the location of the bearing mounting flange before you start so you know where to put the new ones. I think the directions have gotten more clear since the early ones that i used. if you get good directions follow them.

[ShelbyDogg]

If you go with the green bearing on that side, make sure that you do the other side at the same time.. Both axles adjust against each other to load the stock bearings.

[ChallengerHK]

First, I'm going to have to betray some ignornace. What does the lock tab look like?

Second, I know that there's some debate about roller versus cone bearings. While not claiming to be an expert on either, I do have a rudimentary knowledge of physics. It seems to me that the roller-type is designed more for the "straight-line" guys who don't need to be overly concerned with a lot of side-loading. Personally, I really like to take a car that handles well and throw it into a turn hard. Isn't a cone-type bearing a better solution for that type of driving? Won't it have better registration?

[tactransman]

Tapered (original style) bearing is the best.

[chrisII]

Most of my background is in circle track racing, and ive broken the axel flange on an axel with green bearings in it.  if installed properly they are as strong as stock , or stronger. either way I gaurentee that you will never side load an 8.75 as hard as i have. when i installed green bearings i never had another problem with bearings or axel seals again. 

[ChallengerHK]

either way I gaurentee that you will never side load an 8.75 as hard as i have.  

I'll bet you're right about that.  My question, though, is how many miles have you put on the green bearings? Could it be that you can load them really hard ... for 1,000 miles? or even 5,000? The original axle has gone 130,000, and I'd like the next one to go for another 100,000 or so. Chris, or anybody with long term experience with these?