cooling the engine down

[miketyler]

I put a 160^o in mine and drove it around the neighborhood this evening. Temps crept upwards enough about 3/32" below the hot line mark on my factory temp gauge. I am pretty sure that it ran cooler with the 195^o.

I am beginning to believe that my electric fan setup is not going to work. I dont know if its worth it for me to punch the holes and put the flow flaps on it or not. Its probably a good thing I held onto the original fan and shroud.   

[moparbulldog]

You are right,once open it will stay open,the different temps "should"keep the engine at or close to the temp rating on the thermo,BUT a 160 will have a different flow rate than a 180,either flowing the coolant thru the Rad too slow or too fast.A fan without the right cfm will compound the issue.

I am also trying to get this straight as well because I run a 160 thermostat with an aluminum rad and 3000 cfm fan on a 440.  It still runs above 200 once in awhile when I have to stop many times in the 105+ heat.  You think if I put in a 180 stat that will help?  Possibly increasing the flow?  Or should I try drilling the holes in the stat that I have and that should help more?  I drove in the evening the other night at around 85-90* and the temp did not go over 185 with the fan on.  I do not want to overdo it and have warm up issues either. 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

You are right,once open it will stay open,the different temps "should"keep the engine at or close to the temp rating on the thermo,BUT a 160 will have a different flow rate than a 180,either flowing the coolant thru the Rad too slow or too fast.A fan without the right cfm will compound the issue.

Gotcha, thanks. i ordered a 180* mr. gasket high-flow/balanced t-stat. see if that does any good. ill try a regular 180* as well if that doesnt work 

[moparnut]

I am no expert,I just know what has worked for me in the past,it didnt really matter what car or truck it was on.The reason I dont like the 160 is in the winter the engine may not get up to a good operating temp which robs horsepower and fuel mileage.Afterall most new engines run at around 220,but they are meant to.I dont want to keep changing the stat for summer or winter so the 180 is my choice,drilled with the 1/8" holes,clutch fan w/shroud and an electric fan on the front with a adj temp switch turning it on.I dont really like flex fans,never had good luck with them.That water wetter additive may help(a little)but i wouldnt expect it to do anything more than help a little with the heat transfer.Its anywhere from 20-50 degrees where i live in the winter and 90-110 in the summer.Dont forget a burp bottle,they can save your engine.The right rad cap is also important.

[moparbulldog]

OK I am beginning to feel frustrated and I am sorry to just keep asking questions, but I am learning as I go here.    Tonight I was driving around, and everything was going really good.  I had some long stop lights and the temp crept up to around 210, nothing unusual.  I hit one more light before getting home and the temp goes to almost 230!!!   I get home and stuff is pooring out of the overflow tube.  I thought after installing the aluminum rad, and the bigger fan I would not have any problem at all.  This is after only driving in town traffic for around 20 minutes or so.  I will try the 180 stat with the holes in it, but does anyone else have any other suggestions as to why this is still a problem?  I know I have a big block and it puts out alot of horses, and it gets really hot out here in Sacto, but this is getting ridiculous.  Thanks again for any help. 

[4Cruizn]

Post some pics of your setup!      Lets have a look and see what you got!   

[pink panther]

I'm running a built 340 with 6 pack I have a Mopar 4 core radiator and a 160 thermostat, I run around 170 - 180, extremley hot days 180 - 190.  after the car stops and parks it rises, I installed a be-cool pusher in front of the radiator on a toggle. never ran overv 200 while moving.
I'm currently looking for a fan shroud to help me out even more.

is your thermostat working properly/ easy cheap fix. what it sounds like to me.

Any opinions?

[moparbulldog]

OK here it is, Summit aluminum rad, zirco 3000 cfm fan, new wiring harness and relay, 160 regular stat (which according to other posts should be replaced with 180)...thanks....

[moparbulldog]

OK now here is one picture, I am having all sorts of problems tonight

[67Vette427]

After running the car to operating temperature, check for cool spots on the radiator. A cool spot would indicate a blockage.

What is your timing set at? What is your total advance? Maybe retard it a bit to help with the cooling. Also, check your vacuum advance and your mechanical advance to make sure it isn't stuck in an advanced position.

What kind of compression are you running ?

[moparbulldog]

One more....

[67Vette427]

Are the radiator inlet and outlet hoses on the same side of the radiator? On my Cuda the top hose in on the top left and the lower is on the bottom right.

[moparnut]

hot out here in Sacto, but this is getting ridiculous.  Thanks again for any help. 

Hey Neighbor I am in Fresno Area,try the 180 w/ holes,they dont need to be exactly 1/8" you can go with 3/16 as well.Whew is going to be 110 degrees this weekend-OUCH!!!
The other thing that will also help is getting a tranny cooler(dont go with a cheap one if you do or you'll regret it)if you have an auto trans,get the ATF out of your Rad so your tranny donest heat up your Engine thru the rad,I would do this as a last resort though since you Rad cool's tranny fluid better than most aftermarket ones.Again I am guessing and trying to help,unfornutatly this is all trial and error until you get the right combo to make it run cooler.Another stupid question is whats you coolant mix?If you have too much coolant it cant disapate the heat since the water is what does that,the coolant just protects against boil over and freezing.

[67Vette427]

I would throw a flex fan on the engine and keep the electric fan too. The fan you have is only pulling air through that 16" area or whatever the diameter of the fan is. I can put a pic of the Vette set up if you want. I use to have the same problem.

I'd get some fan brackets too that mount to the rad frame. The ties through the radiator vibrate with the fan motion and can damage your radiator.

[moparbulldog]

Thanks for all the responses already, to answer some questions:

10 to 1 compression with timing 35 degrees b.t.d.c. (whatever that means, showing a little of my ingnorance) Radiator hoses are on opposite sides, same as 67 stated.  

I already have the seperate trans cooler, it is pretty good and is mounted in front of the radiator.