cooling the engine down

[moparnut]

Exactly,thats what i have been saying all along,but i would use a clutch and not a flex.The thermo with holes by itself probably wont solve your problem but will be a combination of everything i posted before.

[67Vette427]

I was thinking of the flex just for spacing issues. It might hit the electric fan with the clutch unit. The clutch is a better unit, especially with the 7 blade fan.

[Mopar73340]

I tried dual electric fans years ago with no luck. They would barely keep my Dakota's 5.2 cool at idle. IMO, the best setup is the factory shroud with a 7 blade fan and the HD fan clutch. There is just no way an electric fan can pull or push as much air as this setup can. Last weekend with 85-90* temps in stop and go traffic in Carlisle with the A/C blowing cold air the temp guage never went over 190* with a 180* thermostat and a stock type radiator.

[miketyler]

I am inclined to agree. I am still testing my dual electric setup. I have already cut on this Mystique/Contour dual electric shroud so further hacking isnt going to hurt anything. I did find that the 160^o seemed to make it run cooler sitting in the driveway idling but once I drove it around the temp was getting higher than I like and I still dont have the AC running yet. While driving it ran cooler with the 195^o. I may get a 180 and try the drill
trick

On a stock guage, what temp is the engine assumed to be at when the needle is horizontal?     

[moparnut]

I think A lot of us have learned the lesson that the OEM setup is the best since it was engineered to work,obivously we alter some things that make our engines run hotter than stock but can be addressed with some simple things we posted.I have never bought an aftermarket Rad unless it was to the exact dimentions of the stock Rad so the Shroud will bolt right back up.I think this is the most important thing in cooling an engine properly.I would rather add a core to the stock Rad than buy one that wont let me use the stock shroud,even if it costs more.

[miketyler]

If I go back to a belt driven fan, and clutch fan is better than direct drive (what the car came with) can I get a clutch fan from a later model Mopar? I'd like to pick it up at a local wrecking yard.   

[moparnut]

I dont see any reason why not if it is the same size fr your shroud,that is what I would do instead of paying a grand for a hemi-cuda clutch fan

[Mopar73340]

   It's been my experience that the stock guage at horizontal is approx 190-195*.

[miketyler]

One last thing I noticed that I thought was odd was that with the radiator uncapped I dont see any fluid flow. 

After draining the rad and swapping t-stats, I always run it for a few minutes and let it get up to temp to burp the system. the upper return line is nice and hot so i know the tstat must be open but I dont see the flow like I normally do on other cars. With the radiator inlet on the drivers side, shouldnt I see visible coolant flow at the top of the radiaitor once the car is up to temp?   

[moparnut]

Yes you should be able to see water traveling thru the inner tubes,maybe your stat is stuck closed

[miketyler]

its a brand new 160. The 195 behaved the same way. My custom WP pulley measures 6.4" dia and the original was 6.0" Also, the new crank pulley is 6.2" dia and the orig crank pulley was 7.30"dia. I didnt think about this until now but do you think changing the ratios has slowed my pump down? I think it would be a wash since one grew and the other shrunk by about the same measurment.

Even so, revving the engine with the cap off up to temp still reveals no flow topside on the radiator. WTF over?   

[moparnut]

I dont know.............maybe you have a bad water pump?,I dont know how a bad pump  wouldnt pump water if so,have you checked the W.P shaft???
I always use a flow cooler pumps,less bypass.
Try removing the stat and see if you see movement Or pull the top Rad hose and see if it shoots water,but please stand out of the way

[heminut]

Smaller crank pulley + larger waterpump pulley = slower waterpump speeds. I can't say for sure how much though.

[miketyler]

Smaller crank pulley + larger waterpump pulley = slower waterpump speeds.

Individually however wouldnt one have a cacelling affect on the other? What I figured is

Smaller crank pulley = faster belt speed
Larger WP pulley = slower WP RPM.

I dismissed the difference as negligible until now. I see people using these pulleys all the time and never have an issue. It probably isnt enough to make a difference but for revference I would like to know how I could calculate the WP RPM gain or loss based on this new modified pulley system

Am pulling the tstat out this afternoon to ck for visible flow rate. Will try not to get wet (or burned)

     

[miketyler]

ok, took the t-stat out and confirmed flow at the radiator cap. The pump is definitely doing its thing. I took it out for a test run around the neighborhood (102 degrees today) and it ran a little cooler than with the 160 or 195 tstats at first but later in the drive the needle came up well above horizontal. (200-210 degrees)

On a good old 100+ degree day, do SB cars with clutch fans and stock shrouds run over 200 degrees?